sutyak's turbo 2004 Mach 1 build thread

[sutyak]

Lots of odd newbs popping up lately.

Yep. I'm not sure what the attack angle is exactly, but you can bet it's security recon for a larger agency.
No I'm not paranoid, I just have a foot in the security industry. I'd ban this guy in a heartbeat, and the guy who just posts links to youtube videos.

[Ares]

They are all over the Corral posting their bs. Report, banned and rinse repeat .

[TooFast98Cobra]

The youtube guy is on all the forums posting the same vids. He is a major spammer. Why he isnt banned yet o have no clue

[Martin0660]

The BW doesn't fit exactly like the Precision did, but it's very close.

I recently changed from a Precision .63 to a .82 ... moved the turbine up and out compared to the old one. It only seemed like a little bit, turned into a PITA as it affected my turbo discharge pipe, oil return line, downpipe, etc ... It was actually favorable on the downpipe as it gave me more starter clearance, but everything else sucked, lol. Small change ended up a PITA.

[sutyak]

I recently changed from a Precision .63 to a .82 ... moved the turbine up and out compared to the old one. It only seemed like a little bit, turned into a PITA as it affected my turbo discharge pipe, oil return line, downpipe, etc ... It was actually favorable on the downpipe as it gave me more starter clearance, but everything else sucked, lol. Small change ended up a PITA.

So much truth. Part of me wishes I'd have just gone with a smaller Precision.

[sutyak]

Slimmer fan from a Volvo arrived. After trimming all the Volvo-specific tabs off the side it fits perfectly and provides some extra room. I still ended up trimming some from the top of the shroud for the turbine housing. The fan is definitely smaller than stock, but the full shroud should help a lot. I'm surprised the stock isn't. More pics of the fan after I get the turbo positioned and piping modified.

I finished up painting and clearing the roll bar, and am very happy with how it came out. I used many cans of Duplicolor dark shadow grey. It's extremely close to OEM color. It would probably match perfectly if the paint on the car was new. I'll put the roll bar back in the car after I install the upper torque box reinforcements.








The car has a thick layer of garage dust on it.


I took a break from working on the Mach to replace the A/C clutch on our daily beater car; a 2002 Toyota Echo. This has to be the easiest car in the world to work on and the parts are dirt cheap.
I did remove the paint from the face of the clutch prior to installing. I could have possibly just removed the shim so it made contact again, but with so much else going on I didn't want to waste the time in case that didn't work.

[1320goat]

Coming along nicely

[sutyak]

I've been working on chassis reinforcements lately. After the subframe connectors were installed I moved on to torque box reinforcements. I went with bolt-in strengthening over full on battle boxes, but I think it might have been the same amount of effort to cut out the old and weld in all new.
The lowers were not too difficult. The opening to the LCA bolt had to be cut out to fit the 90 degree plate. I decided to just cut and resplice the ABS wires and run it through a smaller hole in the upper support plate. I did not weld the lower plate in. It didn't seem necessary to add to the strength, but I went ahead and welded the bolts solid to the plates.
The uppers are a pain with one person. Many, many trips in and out of the car. These I did weld. I also went ahead and welded the seams of the torque boxes.
Clearly whoever designed these decided they were for racecars only. The rear of the back seat does not fit wit the massive bolts sticking up through the floor pan. I improvised and, after securing all 4 bolts and welding down the plate, cut off the bolts flush with the upper plate, welded a washer to the plate for added thickness to run a hotter weld, then welded the bolt to the plate and washer. This way it's near-flush, but solid. I still have the driver's side upper to install, and then on to changing the rear gear.


Driver's side lower torque box reinforcement plate



Top plate of driver's side LCA reinforcement. Small hole for ABS wires.



Upper LCA reinforcement plate. What a pain. At least it welded well.



Bolts hit the lower bar of the rear seat



UCA reinforcement and seams welded



UCA plate welded.



1/2" bolts cut off



Bolts welded



My swiss cheese chassis


Underside painted. I'll get a better pic later.

[Cam99]

you are not afraid of work! Looking good mark

[somethingclever]

That is how you eat an elephant......

[Monkeygrits]

I wanna get Tim to reinforce my torque boxes after I get long tube headers lol. He recommended a set of Kooks which will probably break my budget for my next visit there so the boxes will have to wait. Great work!

[sutyak]

Not much time to work on the Mach lately, but I did get some things accomplished. The torque box plates are complete. I also cleaned up some wiring from the fuel pump that was driving me crazy since it ran under the rear seat, and got pinched slightly whenever the back seat was installed.


It's time to add a 20 ton shop press to the garage. Once I pick one up I'll swap in the 4.10's. I had almost decided on the 3.90's just based on max mph in the 1/4, but decided against them after looking more closely at how they will affect my individual gears. With the new GeForce gear set, first gear goes from 3.38 to 2.9. It would actually take a roughly 4.15 rear gear to even make it match stock. With a 28" tire at the track the 4.10 with a 3.38 1st gear will still be longer than the stock 3650 and 3.55's.
Stock 3650, 3.38 1st, 26" tire, 3.55 rear = 42mph at 6500 RPM.
GF 3650, 2.90 1st, 28" tire, 4.10 rear = 45.5mph at 6500 RPM.
So a 4.10 and 28" tire will be equivalent to a stock Mach dropping down to a 3.27 rear gear as far as first gear is concerned.
So 4.10's it is for this trans.


Difficult to get a good photo in a dark car.



Where the ABS wires come through. I suppose I could have just deleted the ABS since the traction control is disabled anyway.



I'll do more painting later. There are more surface rust spots to clean up since the last owner parked it outside.






I don't know what rock I've been under, but I've never seen a fuse holder like this. I was so frustrated when I saw this setup since I thought it didn't have fuses that I added some up towards the battery! Now there are two fuses in line to the fuel pumps. I prefer having them under the hood very close to the battery. There's a lot of hot wire between the trunk and battery to potentially fray, ground out, and burn my car to the ground.
I believe this is the Lethal Performance 850+whp fuel system.

[George C]

Interesting fuse setup but hey it works

[sutyak]

Started the install of the 4.10's. Everything is out. I still need to replace the bearings on the diff, and then begin reassembly. Chipping away at thinks a couple of hours at a time when I can.
I'm using a spare pinion bearing with the center bored slightly that I can easily slide on and off to get the shim correct. Then I'll press on the permanent one. I measured the spare bearing and permanent bearing and the bearing+race depth is within .001", so I'm not concerned about shimming for one but using another.








3.55 left. 4.10 right.

[somethingclever]

Do you have a case spreader?

[sutyak]

Do you have a case spreader?

I don't, but I have a rubber mallet and a crowbar. No doubt it would make it easier getting the diff in and out.

[somethingclever]

I don't, but I have a rubber mallet and a crowbar. No doubt it would make it easier getting the diff in and out.

Without a spreader the job is alot easier with 1 piece shims.....nice to figure out what you need and then order 1 thick one for each side.


Rubber mallet plus 0.010 shim = fail

[sutyak]

Without a spreader the job is alot easier with 1 piece shims.....nice to figure out what you need and then order 1 thick one for each side.


Rubber mallet plus 0.010 shim = fail

Very true. If I get myself into a spot I should have enough stuff around here to be able to make myself a spreader.

[Ares]

If you have original pinion shim at all. Start with it first. I have found it is nearly always the right one. This has worked on my Mustang with three different gear sets and on my Ram front and rear. Also if not using a solid spacer and shims for crush sleeve. Try the Ratech Smart Sleeves. Tried them on my Ram and far, FAR easier to set by hand compared to a normal crush sleeve.

[Martin0660]

I do the crush easier, I drop it off at Tim's and let him fight with it :) we did put the solid in mine this time.