need advice on installing dizzy, initial start up, engine break in

[White5.0]

Ill be starting my car for the first time this weekend most likely, and would like advice from you guys on how i should go about doing a few things.

im going to prime my oil pump of course, but have a few questions on this.

1) can i fill my engine with oil through the distributor hole? im going to have my valve covers off so i can make sure oil is comming up through all of my pushrods so i didnt plan on filling through there.

2) should i fill my oil filter with oil before i put it on since this is my first start up? I figure this way, all of my parts will get oil sooner when i start it, rather than having the oil pass through the filter first

3)How should i go about priming my oil? ive read a little on this but not sure. from what i understand, i need to use a drill. but what do i put on the drill so i can connnect it to the oil pump drive shaft? also, which way do i spin it - clockwise or counterclockwise?

4) How do i properly install the distributor? from what ive read, ill need to make sure piston #1 is at TDC...then what? do i just drop it in?

5) Once i get it started, how should i go about breaking it in? obviously im not going to go around ripping on it, but is there a certain rpm i should be staying under? should i be doing a lot of engine breaking to slow the car down or what? about how many miles should i be easy on it?

6) Finally, how often should i be changing the oil throughout the first few thousand miles of its life? and what kind of oil should i be using? ive heard to not use synthetic at first.



Sorry this was long as hell but i want to do it right and try to not ruin anything! any help would be greatly appreciated! :thmbsup:

[cam303]

Ill be starting my car for the first time this weekend most likely, and would like advice from you guys on how i should go about doing a few things.

im going to prime my oil pump of course, but have a few questions on this.

1) can i fill my engine with oil through the distributor hole? im going to have my valve covers off so i can make sure oil is comming up through all of my pushrods so i didnt plan on filling through there.

2) should i fill my oil filter with oil before i put it on since this is my first start up? I figure this way, all of my parts will get oil sooner when i start it, rather than having the oil pass through the filter first

3)How should i go about priming my oil? ive read a little on this but not sure. from what i understand, i need to use a drill. but what do i put on the drill so i can connnect it to the oil pump drive shaft? also, which way do i spin it - clockwise or counterclockwise?

4) How do i properly install the dizzy? from what ive read, ill need to make sure piston #1 is at TDC...then what? do i just drop it in?

5) Once i get it started, how should i go about breaking it in? obviously im not going to go around ripping on it, but is there a certain rpm i should be staying under? should i be doing a lot of engine breaking to slow the car down or what? about how many miles should i be easy on it?

6) Finally, how often should i be changing the oil throughout the first few thousand miles of its life? and what kind of oil should i be using? ive heard to not use synthetic at first.



Sorry this was long as hell but i want to do it right and try to not ruin anything! any help would be greatly appreciated! :thmbsup:

1) Yes

2) No need if you are going to prime it before starting

3) You need a priming rod, I have one you can borrow if you need it.

4) Make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor cap.

5) There are a lot of different opinions on this but I would just drive it regularly for a little while. 500 miles should be plenty. Race engines see nowhere near this breakin time.

6) Use regular dino for breakin and I would do first change in the first few hundred miles.

[Balaska347]

I agree with everything above.

A minor note, just make sure when you set it at TDC make sure it the compression stroke.

[White5.0]

1) Yes

2) No need if you are going to prime it before starting

3) You need a priming rod, I have one you can borrow if you need it.

4) Make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor cap.

5) There are a lot of different opinions on this but I would just drive it regularly for a little while. 500 miles should be plenty. Race engines see nowhere near this breakin time.

6) Use regular dino for breakin and I would do first change in the first few hundred miles.

Thank you for the advice:thumbsup:

as for the priming rod...do you know if this is this something i can get at advance auto? i know you can borrow a lot of specialty tools there

[White5.0]

I agree with everything above.

A minor note, just make sure when you set it at TDC make sure it the compression stroke.

ah yes ill remember to do that..thank you!

[cam303]

Thank you for the advice:thumbsup:

as for the priming rod...do you know if this is this something i can get at advance auto? i know you can borrow a lot of specialty tools there

You may be able to. I got mine at summit.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D901011&autoview=sku

[White5.0]

You may be able to. I got mine at summit.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D901011&autoview=sku

oo cool...thats not expensive at all ill prob just buy one so ill always have it

[TJH64]

Use an electric drill, a heavy duty 1/2" one works best, to prime the engine.
Make sure it is in reverse.
If you didn't pack the pump with vaseline during assembly, it may take a few seconds for the suction of the pump to pick up the oil. You will definately notice the load on the drill when the oil starts circulating:thumbsup:

[White5.0]

Use an electric drill, a heavy duty 1/2" one works best, to prime the engine.
Make sure it is in reverse.
If you didn't pack the pump with vaseline during assembly, it may take a few seconds for the suction of the pump to pick up the oil. You will definately notice the load on the drill when the oil starts circulating:thumbsup:

alright yeah ill make sure its in reverse for sure....i didnt pack the pump with vaseline (never heard that one before). but yeah i heard it really kills drills priming an engine. a have a pretty heavy duty electric one, hope i dont fry it!! lol

[gmkillr]

It's called a distributor.:thmbsup:

[White5.0]

It's called a distributor.:thmbsup:

and you, my friend, are called an asshole....hahah j/k

[97LaserRed]

It's called a distributor.:thmbsup:
hahahahahaha i was waitin for someone to point that out!!!!

[gmkillr]

and you, my friend, are called an asshole....hahah j/k


There's no need for name calling here.
Merely stating a fact............:rolleyes:

[White5.0]

There's no need for name calling here.
Merely stating a fact............:rolleyes:

i fixed my original post for all you ball busters who can't handle dizzy!!
:balls1:
:rofl:

[gmkillr]

i fixed my original post for all you ball busters who can't handle dizzy!!
:balls1:
:rofl:



LOL!!:rofl:

[INSANELY CRAZY]

i never dry start any motor.. no matter if it has 1mile or 100k miles i always fill the oil filter. everytime i do an oil change the filter gets filled.

and once you go to sythetic it's not recommened to go back to s.a.e

[97LaserRed]

once you go to sythetic it's not recommened to go back to s.a.e
x2! if i were you i would run semi syn. full syn likes to find leaks and cause problems lol. im not too crazy on filling the oil filter up first.it wont hurt the motor at all. i have seen motors run 30-45 min without any oil and be fine after filling it up.

[wick]

Seeing as ou are priming the engine dont bother filling the filter. Get a 5/16 socket. Use a long 1/4 inch drive extension.Put the appratus in the drill of choice. Start running the drill in reverse. It will get real hard in no time. At this point you can use a ratchet nd get tho oil flowing to the pushrods. Trust me, a standard drill wont be able to do it. Mine started smoking. hahahah

[White5.0]

x2! if i were you i would run semi syn. full syn likes to find leaks and cause problems lol. im not too crazy on filling the oil filter up first.it wont hurt the motor at all. i have seen motors run 30-45 min without any oil and be fine after filling it up.

Yeah im gonna use regular oil, not synthetic...also im not gonna put oil in the filter cause im gonna be priming the pump anyways so itll get in there...


Seeing as ou are priming the engine dont bother filling the filter. Get a 5/16 socket. Use a long 1/4 inch drive extension.Put the appratus in the drill of choice. Start running the drill in reverse. It will get real hard in no time. At this point you can use a ratchet nd get tho oil flowing to the pushrods. Trust me, a standard drill wont be able to do it. Mine started smoking. hahahah


hahaha so you suggest doing it by hand so i dont ruin my drill? thats a good idea

[Jivepepper]

I believe in putting some load on a new engine to help set the rings. Mine was a fresh build so I just started it after filling filter full first.

Besides it's the biggest pia to prime modular engines. You need a pressure container to force oil in from the sending unit. Some have converted bug sprayers and got it to work.

[White5.0]

I believe in putting some load on a new engine to help set the rings. Mine was a fresh build so I just started it after filling filter full first.

Besides it's the biggest pia to prime modular engines. You need a pressure container to force oil in from the sending unit. Some have converted bug sprayers and got it to work.

yea that kinda sounds like it sucks to do on a modular ive never really looked into priming the oil on a modular before....ill be doing it on a 302 so it shouldn't be too bad, i just might ruin a drill but o well lol

[MBH]

I believe in putting some load on a new engine to help set the rings.
+1

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[SonofaBish]

+1

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


x3!!!!

[White5.0]

+1

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

thats a pretty interesting article right there but im not so sure about it. To me, when i read it it kind of sounds like an infomercial...you know, like a "Get ripped abs in 90 days guaranteed!" kind of thing hahah.

Also the examples are for motorcycle engines (although he states in can be applied to all engines)...IMO motorcycle engines are more reliable than a v8. I've seen a street bike burn out, bouncing off the rev limiter till his rear tire blew, which took nearly 5 minutes of just full throttle, all out bouncing it off the rev limiter lol. if i tried that in a mustang im pretty sure i wouldnt be able to drive it anymore haha

i think there is probably a big difference in the way you should break in a small engine that can rev to 16,000 rpm and a bigger engine that can only rev to 6,000 rpm.

But hey, im no engine builder so what do i know? maybe some of the more experienced people can chime in like Tim Rodeheaver or Mike at Wolfpack Speed and let us know what they think on the subject

[wick]

hahaha so you suggest doing it by hand so i dont ruin my drill? thats a good idea


NO no, when the drill starts tolag and kinda stall, you can then change over to a ratchet. The pump will push oil throughout with the simple turn of a ratchet. Thats how I do mine. Works great!!! When using thr drill, you will see how people twist the pump drive to a candy cane like figure in no time.

[White5.0]

NO no, when the drill starts tolag and kinda stall, you can then change over to a ratchet. The pump will push oil throughout with the simple turn of a ratchet. Thats how I do mine. Works great!!! When using thr drill, you will see how people twist the pump drive to a candy cane like figure in no time.

ooooo i see i see:thumbsup: