OK 5.slow experts....recommend me a budget street setup for my DD

[somethingclever]

As with everything....I can't leave well enough alone.

I'm also new to 5.0's so I need some expert opinions. :)

I was thinking an alum head upgrade, intake upgrade, and TB upgrade from the stock stuff.

Vehicle is used for DD use and spirited driving.

On a recent trip to Michigan it got 24mpg at 73mph and I don't want it to go any lower. ;) Small ports and reasonable rpm is what I'm after.

What's a good street setup for under 1k for everything? I see there is a set of used Y303 heads with 1.7 crane's on the corral for $750 shipped. It seems that's a little high from other prices I've seen....but is that a good head for mid-range tq and a little extra power uptop?

Here's what I was thinking from my limited research:

Y303, X306 or Edel heads (I want alum for weight savings)
GT40 tubular upper and lower
65mm Exploder TB

Engine currently is stock (from what I can gather) except for an E-cam and FRPP shorties....rear gears are 3.55's.

I would retain the E-cam, shorties, and 3.55's. (I would actually consider a different cam if the power wouldn't suffer and fuel mileage would increase.)


thought's/opinions/suggestions welcome

[yeahloh95]

those heads make good power and i would try the 1.7's with the e cam of fury, it would make close to 300 hp and should run well in the 12's with a good tune up

[somethingclever]

Thanks Troy.

I'd really like a set of those AFR165's but the heads alone would cost more than I'd like to spend for everything. :)

I also read the tubular GT40 is 9lbs lighter than a conventional style intake.....between that and some alum heads it should get the weight bias down to a more reasonable level.

So it sounds like you feel that is a well matched setup?

[White5.0]

any of those heads would be a good bet to go with. theyre aluminum and they are cheaper than the top ones like twisted wedge or AFR's even though those heads are the best, you're doing this on a budget, and any aluminum head is better than the junk E7's that are on there now. The E303 isnt that bad even though everyone hates on the alphabet cams. plus you already have it so i would stick with it. go with some 1.7 RR's as well.

the tubular gt40 is a little lighter and sure looks awesome but the cobra and explorer intakes are the exact same design and can be had ~$100-$200 cheaper than the tubular, so if you are real serious about saving money i would go with one of those.

I would also delete the smog, EGR, get a taurus fan, and grab a 3g alt while you're at it.

it'll be a blast to drive and put ~300ft lbs to the rear wheels

[somethingclever]

Thanks for the heads up on the cobra and explorer intakes being the same....they are definately cheaper.......I'm actually surprised how much those tubular GT40 intakes are.

Are they an OEM production part or FRPP?

I take it the lower intakes are all the same as well?

[White5.0]

Thanks for the heads up on the cobra and explorer intakes being the same....they are definately cheaper.......I'm actually surprised how much those tubular GT40 intakes are.

Are they an OEM production part or FRPP?

I take it the lower intakes are all the same as well?


I believe they're an old FRPP product that they dont make anymore and i guess are pretty rare, thats why they go for so much. the lower intakes are the exact same.

I also have a chart that compares all 3 and they flow about 99% the same CFM across all RPMs. Ill try to post it up tomorrow when i get back to school since its on my laptop

[yeahloh95]

the lowers are all the same for the best deal look for an explorer intake , do a gasket match on the lower , and you will have a nice powerful street combo

[White5.0]

well i found the chart using google. it shows hp/tq with each one across the rpm's....not CFM. but if they are this close, the CFM is probably the same as well.

http://www.andersonfordmotorsport.com/media/intake5.jpg

[somethingclever]

Yep....i'd say those are close enough to call them identical!


Great info. Thanks alot.


Sounds like new plan includes an exploder intake...unless I get my hands on a GT40 for a good price.

[biminiLX]

John, you got a good plan so far, the head upgrade is the best idea.
If you can find a set of the standard TFS TW heads I'd recommend those, biggest valves with a stock shortblock and potential for biggest power potential of the heads your looking at. I think if you're keeping the E-cam the 1.7s are a good idea, I think there is enough PV clearence even with the TWs.
As far as the intakes go, the ones mentioned are good enough or older Edelbrock Performer or RPM is good too. Mildly port match the lower either way IMO.
I had mildly ported iron windsor jr 2.02 heads, E-cam, 1.6s, Cobra intake, 1 5/8" full-lengths, 3.73s and liked it. The next year I swapped the intake with a older Performer RPM and ran 12.60s @106-108 with a lowered stiffer suspension. I personally liked the RPM better than the Cobra. I also got similar mileage when I didn't have my foot in it :)
-J

[somethingclever]

Thanks for the feedback J....108 is moving pretty good. Is 1.94 considered the biggest to fit in the factory valve reliefs?

[biminiLX]

I believe so, but the rolled valve angles of the TFS TW heads allow 2.02s with the factory pistons, that's one reason I like them.
-J

[Viper_ed]

I believe so, but the rolled valve angles of the TFS TW heads allow 2.02s with the factory pistons, that's one reason I like them.
-J

Those with some 1.6 rockers and a good old F cam work sweet together!

[biminiLX]

True, true, but if already has the E I'd just do a 1.7
-J

[J-rod]

Did your build come together as planned? happy with the results?

similar plan that I had considered.

[somethingclever]

No...sold the car before buying any engine parts for it....

Would've been in the 300rwhp range with the parts listed....

[J-rod]

well damn. LOL

[J-rod]

Might as well put my ish in here instead of another thread since we have/had similar plans.

I have on order the GT40 tubular intake and an F cam. Got a 65mm FRPP TB and an edelbrock intake elbow.

next on the shopping list is heads and roller rockers once the bonus money comes in. lol
Then the little things to complete....

Though 300 rwhp may be a bit too high of expectations for me.....we will see.

[Mark Aubele]

If you want to save money and it is a street car, I would eat the 40lb and go for GT40ps, they can be had for $200 and my full weight 86 GT went 12.70@106 while still speed density with a stock cam with mild bowl work, decent valves, and an Explorer intake. Same motor went 12.40s@108 with an N41, and that combo with a Performer RPM and "road race" suspension on Toyo RA-1s went 12.50@109. I actually preferred the Explorer intake over the RPM even with it picking up 1mph. Car made 258 rwhp with the stock cam, so it was likely in the 285 range with the rise in MPH and a heavier car.

My 84 with a carb and a custom cam made 293 with box stock Ps, stock valves, valve job, zero porting (obviously better springs and retainers).

Having said that, if I were to go to the trouble and money on alum heads, I wouldn't even consider GT40s. I'd spend another couple hundred and pick up a set of TWs or AFRs. Unless you get them for like $500.

[went9s]

Having said that, if I were to go to the trouble and money on alum heads, I wouldn't even consider GT40s. I'd spend another couple hundred and pick up a set of TWs or AFRs. Unless you get them for like $500.
Best thing you said in two days. Glad your better at cars then bowling.

[J-rod]

my dilema on the GT40P is this:
GT40P without upgraded springs - $100-$200
spring kit - $150
valve job - $120

so I could be $470 into a set of P heads.

A lot of used P heads come with the TF springs or similar so that would help the budget. But then to encounter the issue of headers and really only one true header that "fits" without issues. and thats $250 add on.

I am going to debate the head issue for another week or so at least.

[Mark Aubele]

my dilema on the GT40P is this:
GT40P without upgraded springs - $100-$200
spring kit - $150
valve job - $120

so I could be $470 into a set of P heads.

A lot of used P heads come with the TF springs or similar so that would help the budget. But then to encounter the issue of headers and really only one true header that "fits" without issues. and thats $250 add on.

I am going to debate the head issue for another week or so at least.

Better to just find a set that has upgraded springs already, they are pretty easy to find. I think there is even a set on here right now. I had zero issues with Mac 1 5/8s, and BBK 1 5/8s. Just have to buy wires with 90 degree boots. I would just get a set for a SBC. Only header that doesn't fit (that I know of) are the equal length shorty which no one runs anyway as far as I know.

Regardless of what head I buy, unless I am running a stock cam I prefer to replace the springs anyway, cheap insurance, and then you know for sure you have the proper spring for whatever cam you are running.