trying to learn cams

[J-rod]

M-6250-E303 (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=1329)
Good idle quality. Excellent low- and mid-range power. Power through 6000 RPM. Emissions legal with 5-speed manual trans (E.O. #D-225-16). Works good with automatic transmission. Great for superchargers. (3)
M-6250-F303* (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=2029)
Slightly rougher idle than E303. More mid-range and top-end power than E303. Great for superchargers. 5-speed manual transmission recommended. (3)
M-6250-B303* (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=899)
Fair idle quality. Good low-end torque. Significant top-end horsepower above 4000 RPM. 5-speed manual transmission recommended. (3)
M-6250-X303* (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=1330)
Ultra high performance camshaft. Fair idle quality. Big time torque and horsepower maker-up to 6200 RPM. 5-speed manual transmission recommended. (3)
M-6250-Z303* (http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts/part_details.asp?PartKeyField=2969)
“CamZilla” the biggest and baddest camshaft Ford Racing offers. Fair idle quality. Big time torque and horsepower maker—up to 6500 RPM. 5-speed manual transmission recommended. (3)well i knew about the E303 forever...it looks good with the auto. rest say 5 speed. although i dont know about the duration and intak/exhaust. how to decide there.

yes im a dumb newb hillbilly. :balls1: (now that that's out of the way can we get serious.)

[Pure Stock]

There are *much* better alternatives out there today other than the B and E 303's. The F cam remains a viable choice though. I've seen it perform with out of the box T.W.'s on a stock shortblock with a GT-40 intake and 65mm T.B. Shorty headers and a race weight of 3,200 with driver. It pulled hard to 5,800 rpm and generated a N/A trap speed of damn near 111 mph. Same combo with an S-trim pullied at 7.5 lbs. ran 124 out the back door with absolutely no tune and a portly race weight of 3350 lbs.

As far as the X and Z go, no real world experience on those.

[J-rod]

well i was considering a "budget cam" as im afraid to put too much into this 162k mile motor. :dunno:

it will be compression tested next weekend to verify everything. i just worry about modding a high mileage motor too much

[INSANELY CRAZY]

dont worry, hell if you mod it then it will like new.... i've modded 200+ miles 5.0's and had no problems.. go for it

F cam is a nice cam, lope nice, can still kept car at idle...

[DRRummel]

I hate to be a trouble maker, but,
1. The compression test will let you know about the condidtion on the rings.
2. If you are going to pull the engine to swap the cam, then flip the motor, pull the pan and mic the crank. If it doesn't need to be ground, put new bearings in it and your good. Bearing are cheap for a near stock engine. It is a nice peice on mind.
If it does need to be ground, the extra horse power and heavy foot would have lead to an early demise for the engine. Have the crank ground and put new oversized bearing in it.

If you have to pull the engine and timeing chain cover for the cam, you have over half the work already done, check the bottom end.

[J-rod]

i was unaware you had to pull the motor for a cam install on the 5.0. i guess since it bigger than the 3.8 there isnt room to install it with the motor in. :dunno:

this may change things a little.

[George C]

cams go in with motor in car!!!

man all those cams are tiny compared to what im used to. i think F would be alright in your case

but im also used to another world cams. where 550 lift is tiny along with 228 duration being baby

[wick]

Yeah, pull the rad, flip the A/C condenser out of the way and have at it.

[383taman]

:iagree:

[lib88stang]

Most people hate the B-cam, but I like it:bouncy:

[fast4ord]

Go with a dual pattern cam, alphabet cams are timeless, and put a 5-speed in that pig :goodidea:

[DRRummel]

Yeah, pull the rad, flip the A/C condenser out of the way and have at it.
Sorry of the bum information.

[J-rod]

thats good to hear. i will call a few shops and see which one they reccomend. X or E.


also ill keep my auto for a while. going with a stall as soon as i can get back to pick it up....hope it not sold :)

[George C]

thats good to hear. i will call a few shops and see which one they reccomend. X or E.


also ill keep my auto for a while. going with a stall as soon as i can get back to pick it up....hope it not sold :)

just buy the built trans i have, comes with a nice 3200 and will work well with a ncie cam

[gmkillr]

If you have a stock bottom end the "X" isnt going to fit. Forget about the Ford cams, get yourself a nice OTS Comp Cam, there like $249

[J-rod]

If you have a stock bottom end the "X" isnt going to fit. Forget about the Ford cams, get yourself a nice OTS Comp Cam, there like $249


why not? my understanding is the ford cams are generally made for near stock motors.

[lib88stang]

Go with a dual pattern cam, alphabet cams are timeless, and put a 5-speed in that pig :goodidea:

The Ford cams are still good cams, and perform just as good and split dura. with the right combo, also a 5 speed won't be needed with the right gears and converter.

[J-rod]

The Ford cams are still good cams, and perform just as good and split dura. with the right combo, also a 5 speed won't be needed with the right gears and converter.


3.73 and 3k stall :dunno: is my plans.

[lib88stang]

3.73 and 3k stall :dunno: is my plans.

F cam with roller rockers would work well also , but then you'll want heads and intake too. it all depends on whjat your wanting the car to do.

[J-rod]

right now just a budget toy....nothing radical. i love the sound of cam and its a nice low cost mod compared to most hp mods. want something not too embarrising at track but still remain daily driveable.


see i limit myself to $x/month for car mods...and im trying to stick to it. :rofl:

[5k#Eaton]

Go with a dual pattern cam, alphabet cams are timeless, and put a 5-speed in that pig :goodidea:

x2:thumbsup:

[mlowry1260]

Jared,

go with a small comp XE 258HR cam or XE264HR. Bigger isn't always better with cams. Neither is peak power on a street car. You want to build for the highest average power & torque, also known as the areqa under the curve. When you're looking at a dyno graph, you want to tune the car to have the most amount of area under the HP & TQ curves. That will make the car fun to drive & the quickest. Forget about max HP.

http://www.compcams.com/technical/Catalogs/106-07/72-75_230.pdf

Don't forget, you need to upgrade the springs, retainer & rockers to use a HP cam. Your stock valve springs are not up to the task.

I may be able to help save some $$ with some used parts if you're interested.

[gmkillr]

Im about 99% sure the X & Z cams will not work on stock bottom ends.

[Balaska347]

Jared, just take your time and do your research and you will save in the long run from having to buy parts more than once. Make a plan for what you want your goal to be, like street & strip car, track car, daily driver, dyno queen, N/A, blower, or turbo(s). Do you want auto or stick, and a 5 speed doesn't make a car fast. Putting in a cam won't give you that much HP but it does give it that lumpy idle that everyone loves. The cam is a key part in making your combo work together. It moves your power range around through the rpm's. Your combo is what makes the cam good. If you are planning on keeping the auto it is important to match the converter and cam.

[Rodeheaver's]

If you have a stock bottom end the "X" isnt going to fit. Forget about the Ford cams, get yourself a nice OTS Comp Cam, there like $249
i have personally put an e-cam into the 11s NA, also a f-cam into the 10.90s with a 150 shot all with STOCK heads, and full weight cars, the fms cams are great and all of my stuff is carberated, and i know that everyone thinks that fuel injection is faster.

[Rodeheaver's]

Im about 99% sure the X & Z cams will not work on stock bottom ends.
correct the x and z will cause problems for you, stick with the F-cam, then you can go and buy a set of stock 93 cobra valve springs for 40$ at advanced auto and throw them in on top of that cam and you will be good to go....

[coralcoupe1993]

Dude....If I can sell some parts I will putting a new combo in the notch. I have a Steeda 18 in there now. It is a mild split duration cam that is wonderfull on the street with a nice top end. When are you looking to do this?

[J-rod]

not looking to install anytime soon, just know a couple fs by members here and was beginning to look harder into it. i do want to cam this 5.0 but it wont be for a litle bit. id love to have a cam and stall before track season ends this year. :dunno:


i know of an E and an X. was gonna call summitt about the X yesterday but was too busy at work.

[J-rod]

correct the x and z will cause problems for you, stick with the F-cam, then you can go and buy a set of stock 93 cobra valve springs for 40$ at advanced auto and throw them in on top of that cam and you will be good to go....


good to know. :awsome:

[J-rod]

Dude....If I can sell some parts I will putting a new combo in the notch. I have a Steeda 18 in there now. It is a mild split duration cam that is wonderfull on the street with a nice top end. When are you looking to do this?


keep me posted :thmbsup:

[J-rod]

correct the x and z will cause problems for you, stick with the F-cam, then you can go and buy a set of stock 93 cobra valve springs for 40$ at advanced auto and throw them in on top of that cam and you will be good to go....


remind me to ask you about this when i get there tonight! :goodidea:

[Rodeheaver's]

remind me to ask you about this when i get there tonight! :goodidea:
ok, hey Jared, ask me about this tonight. hehe

[J-rod]

ok, hey Jared, ask me about this tonight. hehe


:pinkthumb:


thanks for taking care of my turd. :biglaugh:

[J-rod]

how does this cam relate to an F cam? TF stage 1? etc?

http://www.holley.com/510A3LUN.asp