I need some advice

[ERHsn95]

hey there im looking to get my mustang into the road racing scene and i was looking for advice on what is worth purhcasing to help me get through the corners in my 95 Gt 5spd

[AutomagicSN98]

Definitely sub-frame connectors as a first.

[Mark Aubele]

How far do you want to go? What class so you want to run in? Mods will be dictated by these two questions.

As said above, subframes (good ones) should be the first thing, then decent brake pads. Now you go get seat time. After that is taken care of....

1. Camber plates. Maximum Motorsports.

2. Shocks, springs. Bilsteins (sport or MM Race Valved) or Konis, SA or DA. If you can't afford either of those don't bother. AGXs are garbage, Tokicos are garbage (Tokico D-Specs are adequate if you really need to save money). Front spring rate needs to be 800 lb/in minimum, 1000 preferred. Rear will be dictated by the rear suspension.....

3. Rear suspension. 3 link (Evolution Motorsport, not made anymore), Steeda 5 link (only thing they make worth a damn), Maximum Motorsports Torque Arm and panhard bar. I don't recommend a panhard bar with the stock 4 link, I had bind so bad the car was picking up the rear wheel in transitions.

4. Forward offset urethane bushings (front a-arms), spherical front bushings, etc.

5. Urethane end links, or custom make adjustable ones with rod ends, I did this, and the ability to remove the bind from the front swaybar made a noticeable difference, even on the scales (there was severe bind after corner-weighting the car on coil-overs).

6. Leave the stock sway bars on. Don't waste money here.

7. IMO, all the braces sold for these cars are pointless.

8. Decent diff. I was always cheap and just upgraded the stock one with carbon clutches, worked fair. Auburn Pro is a diff being run successfully by a local hillclimber in a blown Fox Body too (he grenaded a Detroit Tru-trac, went to the Auburn, sends it back for a rebuild yearly).

The most important thing before you touch anything, is just to get seat time. Go to an autocross, a track day.

Above was my attempt to make a broad generalization of a decent pathway. Feel free to ask specific questions, there are many ways to make the car work, gotta know what you want to spend and what you want to do.

[somethingclever]

Before spending money on parts spend money on seat time to see if you like it.

[scott5]

Before spending money on parts spend money on seat time to see if you like it.

x2..

[ERHsn95]

as for seat time ive been wanting seat time for two years now ever since i saw my uncle run at beaverun. im really excited that i finally have a car thats worth running around on a track day im definetly looking forward to the spring time i dont wanna do anything drastic yet im just gonna keep saving money so that when the time comes ill just make a big order and get her ready but what i wanted to know was small stuff you think would help a beginer out. subframes were one of the first things on my list as well as some brake upgrades like maybe braided lines and hawk pads maybe a bushing kit to just firm up the suspention a lil bit id love to go head over heals into making my car set up for track day use but money and expierence are two things i need first if theres any other small things or advice going into the spring would be greatly welcomed also if anyone has plans yet for running in the spring with some events to either go to or see for road course type stuff please feel free to let me know thanks guys

[PaxtonShelby]

You'll probably want a second set of rims with decent tires - you can really tear up your stock daily driver tires at the track.

Check out this thread ( also in the Road Racing / Autocross section )

http://steelcitystangs.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24247

I participated in the track day and it was awesome. Mark was a huge help and really knows what he is doing. I hope to do another track day next season - hopefully this time it won't pour down rain all day long...

Be prepared to REALLY like this...

[Dan B.]

I'm kind of hoping to set my fox t-bird up for some road course action. Looks like fun!

Are there any regs for wheel/tires/stud spec's to run in a mainly stock class?

[Silverhatch]

Then after you think you have it ironed out, talk to Mark again! He is the resident road racer.

[somethingclever]

but what i wanted to know was small stuff you think would help a beginer out.




Seat time......




But if you're hell-bent on buying something, a good drivers seat would be top of my list.

[yeahloh95]

all great info the driver mod is still the best

[stick947]

From someone who started in auto-x, track days and most recently finished 4th overall in the 25 Hours of Thunderhill. From where you are now the lines get longer and fatter, it's an addiction. Fun is the most important thing cause I have had a blast at every level. You can have a good time auto-xing and its cheap and you can have a good time doing open days at the Beav but that's a little more money etc and so on down the line. If you get on track and you like it, then you need brakes, braided lines and any kind of pads just get creative and run some duct work to them, nothing like fresh air to keep even a pretty much stock setup going. Use Napa steel rotors, pro teams use napa rotors steel smooth no holes no grooves they just crack where the metal has been altered. Pads, we use Hawk and I think they are good for a track car but they make a lot of dust and squeak on the street. EBC made some good ones 6-7 years ago when I was auto-x and they lasted made less dust noise. Next stiffen the chassis, sub frames is a good start. Make it handle do the coilovers if you have the money, better geometry easier to change settings with caster camber plates etc. If you are going on the big track think about at least a back half (4 point) bolt in bar, a seat at least for you and belts. I built mine backwards, handling and power before brakes and safety.

With all of that said, think about buying a dedicated track car. I just sold my AI car with spares for 10K and that car including the purchase price cost in its form when it left about 8X that, so bargains can be had if you look around at old racers etc. They might be out of spec for racing but perfectly safe for a track day. However, that usually means a truck and trailer. Open flat trailers are cheap and depending you could probably find a decent truck for cheap if you dont have one already.

This is a lot to process but I'm throwing it out there cause I wish I could have been there to guide me back then. Not that I wouldn't be racing etc. its just that I would have done it more efficiently. I built a racecar instead of bought. Sure you have to sort out someone else's stuff but it's far cheaper in the long run.

Anyway I've rambled enough. Ask away.

[ACM03Cobra]

stainless steel brake lines, upgraded brake fluid.......

[stick947]

Steel brake lines yes and upgraded fluid yes. There are plenty of fluids out there the higher the boiling point the better. I use the Wilwood 600 stuff and have never had a problem.