HELP!!!! Oil pressure problems on the new build!

[OctaneGraphix]

Hey guys, I just dropped the new 347 stroker (new as in rebuilt) in the fox last weekend. Broke it in, everything went fine, have been driving it quite a bit before I take it to Street Lethal for a tune (trying to get 500 miles). Everything has been going great so far, except for yesterday, I took it on a 2.5 hr drive, stopping halfway for lunch.... everything went fine on the trip as well (most of the drive was not on the highway, and when i was i never really stayed same RPM's) well when I was going to leave and come home yesterday, I was not getting good oil pressure on the gauge. When I would rev the motor, it would get around 16lbs, at idle it barely has anything. I changed the filter thinking it was just junked up from bits of stuff from initial break in. That did nothing.... I tried to prime the system again... I can get the gauge to read about 20lbs. I took the gauge off and blew air through it to see if it was messed up and it read 40lbs, so the gauge is fine. I dont know what else to try... could this be the oil pump? (and yes for you smart asses out there I did check the oil level lol) Before this issue, I could start it and it would have 60lbs cold, then 40lbs hot. The motor makes excessive noise when i start it, but nothing banging or clanking... moreso just sounds like stuff isnt getting enough oil. I put good oil in it for break in and it looks brand new still... I put in shaeffers oil. SO I know the oil isnt junk @$50 something a case... lol. Any thoughts or suggestions? This sucks!

[no1sirbutler]

New oil pumps/gears or did you reuse the old?

[OctaneGraphix]

i will have to check with the builder, but im guessing we used the old ones

[TooFast98Cobra]

Its under 50 for a new oil pump i would have hoped u bought a new one for the rebuild. Order a blue printed precision and change it out.

[OctaneGraphix]

I would hope so too! lol I havent seen an itemized reciept yet. just a generic one. But lets say it IS the oil pump... I take it I am going to have to pull the motor again??!!?

[wick]

Just take the mounts off, jack it up and pull the pan. Pull the distributor also.

[OctaneGraphix]

Do I need to pull the motor again to change the pump?

[SK@StreetLethal]

First thing is to drain the oil in the engine into a clean container and look for any debris. Second remove the filter and cut it open and see what is hiding in the folds. But do not run it any longer. Save the oil and filter if the builder wants to see it also.

[wick]

There is a possibility that the pick up is clogged with junk. Either way the pan HAS to come off.

[OctaneGraphix]

OK will do. Man this sucks.... Ive spent soo much time on this thing just to get a kick in the balls like this lol. Thanks guys.

[vitaleffects626]

You don't have. To pull motor to change pump read wicks post

[wick]

To make it even easier for you, I saw an engine bar for sale here last week. Check into getting it.

[wick]

OK will do. Man this sucks.... Ive spent soo much time on this thing just to get a kick in the balls like this lol. Thanks guys.

It happens. Part of the joys of a mustang.

[TooFast98Cobra]

It happens. Part of the joys of a mustang.

X2!!! The fun as just begun. Wait till it breaks every other time u drive it.

[OctaneGraphix]

That upper intake manifold seems pretty close, I won't have to take that off a well?

[Mark Aubele]

Shouldn't have to. Just start pulling the motor up and if it makes contact pull it.

[yeahloh95]

could you have broken the oil pump drive shaft? they make hardened ones for that reason

[Mark Aubele]

Most importantly don't start the car or drive it for any reason.

[cemnt guy]

It happens. Part of the joys of a mustang.
x2. best of luck to u and keep us updated:awsome:

[OctaneGraphix]

No I don't think the driveshaft broke because when I prime it it will tea about 16lbs. And can see oil squirting out from where the cam / distributor gears are. We pushed it onto the trailer.

[wick]

That upper intake manifold seems pretty close, I won't have to take that off a well?

If its that close, just loosen the trans mount and slide it forward. That's easier than pulling an intake.

[OctaneGraphix]

Ok sounds good! And what is an engine bar? How does that work? U mean to lift the motor to get the pan off I take it?

[wick]

Pretty much answered your own question. That's what it is. Rests on the strut tower. Has threaded hooks on each side to raise the engine. Honestly, I always just used a piece of square tubing I have here and made the same thing. Cost me nothing.

[OctaneGraphix]

Ok. Sounds good. Thanks man. And I was talkin to an engine guy, said there might just be a problem with the pickup tube. Either way I gotta drop the pan, and if it lost pressure, I need to replace the main bearings. If I'm there I might as well soothe pump too. What's a good pump to buy?

[PaxtonShelby]

What do you guys think - should he go with a standard volume oil pump? I've heard that the high-volume pumps do more harm than good ( cause leaks / blow-by ).

Also - did you take the time to pre-lube the pump with grease prior to installing?

And get a high-quality hardened oil pump shaft while you get a new pump - super cheap insurance.

[juice_man_86]

Ultimately it's up to him...I like the high volume pumps. If he's not revin high, he prob shouldn't need one. I got mine here http://stores.precisionoilpumps.com/StoreFront.bok

[wick]

I always did a stock pump. Never once had issues. High volume has been known to drain the pan at high RPM.

[TJH64]

Here are a couple things to consider. Did you check for proper clearance from the bottom of the oil pan to the pickup? This is especially true if using an aftermarket deep pan. Starvation could occur if not properly clearanced. Also, check the bolts for the pickup where it connects at the pump. If not torqued properly, it could cause the pump to suck air. Don't ask me how I know about this:rotflol:

[OctaneGraphix]

Ok, so I figured out the problem! The freeze plug on the front of the lifter valley facing the distributor came out. The rest of the motor should be good because it was still getting oil (since this is the end of the oil flow). The motor noise I was hearing was the lifters starving for oil and not "lifting". At least this is a somewhat easy fix... gotta drop the pan (not remove), pull the damper, and remove the timing cover. This will perfectly expose the freeze plug hole. Since the motor is together... I cant really tap the hole and put a screw in type plug... is there a better way to get it to be more secure other than peening it? Like does someone make a sealer/weld that will help hold it in better? I heard this can be a known problem with the 302.... you need to make sure the plug is secured in the hole really well..... Any thoughts?

[SK@StreetLethal]

Peening the edges will help also put a light layer of red loc tite around the plug before you put it in. The real solution is threading the holes in an npt thread and using a pipe plug.

[OctaneGraphix]

Yeah i was talking to a builder and he said the same to tap it and put a pipe plug in it.. however i dont think i can do that with the motor still together... I would get stuff all through it. So I guess I'm stuck with putting a new freeze plug in it. I will do the lock tight and make sure it is peened good.