Big408
05-10-2007, 11:06 AM
I’m looking for advice on the proper suspension setup. Here is my setup.
86 Mustang GT, Vortech supercharger 408 making 586RWHP/586TQ. TKO 500
UPR Kmember, a-arms, coilovers 130-14, 90/10 no sway bar, no A/C, 225-50-15 on weld rims in the front
Full length subframes, 8 point cage
Rear upper lower battle boxes, UPR solid upper and lower control arms
Moroso drag springs (right is heavier), right airbag set to 5psi. Lakewood 50/50 shocks
3.73, spool, 33 spline, 26X11.5X15 ET Streets on 10” rims
Car weighs 3330 with me driving it. I always race with 13 gallons in the stock tank (based on the same fill station on the way to the track)
11.5 psi of air in the slicks, I do a second gear burnout until they are making some good smoke.
I dump the clutch at 3K and the car hooks pretty good and goes.
6000 rpms shifts
My problem is on every shift the front end nose dives into the ground and back up again when I’m on the gas. I have it on video:
1st gear the front is fully extended (you could put a basket ball between my tire and fender)
Shift to 2nd – looks like the front bottoms and almost scrapes the track, back on the gas = back up almost fully extended.
3rd and 4th are close to the same, just not as extreme.
Seems like I’d be loosing HP and momentum by having to re-lift the front end on every shift. Is this right, is there a better setup?
I was under the impression that you want the softest front coil springs but the longest to aid in front end lift and weight xfer on launch. Launch seems fine but it’s the shifts.
First three runs I had the front about ¾” lower than the rear.
10.96@133.0 1.65 60foot
10.77@132.7 1.60 60foot
10.63@133.3 1.58 60foot
Then I raised the front coils two turns. Couldn’t actually measure the front to rear at the track but it seemed to help. One thing I noticed is, when I raise the front say 1” , then the rear raises ½”. Is this normal?
Last run.
10.53@134.4 1.55 60foot
I was thinking of buying brand new Lakewood 90/10s as mine are several years old.
Any suggestions?
86 Mustang GT, Vortech supercharger 408 making 586RWHP/586TQ. TKO 500
UPR Kmember, a-arms, coilovers 130-14, 90/10 no sway bar, no A/C, 225-50-15 on weld rims in the front
Full length subframes, 8 point cage
Rear upper lower battle boxes, UPR solid upper and lower control arms
Moroso drag springs (right is heavier), right airbag set to 5psi. Lakewood 50/50 shocks
3.73, spool, 33 spline, 26X11.5X15 ET Streets on 10” rims
Car weighs 3330 with me driving it. I always race with 13 gallons in the stock tank (based on the same fill station on the way to the track)
11.5 psi of air in the slicks, I do a second gear burnout until they are making some good smoke.
I dump the clutch at 3K and the car hooks pretty good and goes.
6000 rpms shifts
My problem is on every shift the front end nose dives into the ground and back up again when I’m on the gas. I have it on video:
1st gear the front is fully extended (you could put a basket ball between my tire and fender)
Shift to 2nd – looks like the front bottoms and almost scrapes the track, back on the gas = back up almost fully extended.
3rd and 4th are close to the same, just not as extreme.
Seems like I’d be loosing HP and momentum by having to re-lift the front end on every shift. Is this right, is there a better setup?
I was under the impression that you want the softest front coil springs but the longest to aid in front end lift and weight xfer on launch. Launch seems fine but it’s the shifts.
First three runs I had the front about ¾” lower than the rear.
10.96@133.0 1.65 60foot
10.77@132.7 1.60 60foot
10.63@133.3 1.58 60foot
Then I raised the front coils two turns. Couldn’t actually measure the front to rear at the track but it seemed to help. One thing I noticed is, when I raise the front say 1” , then the rear raises ½”. Is this normal?
Last run.
10.53@134.4 1.55 60foot
I was thinking of buying brand new Lakewood 90/10s as mine are several years old.
Any suggestions?