Traction Question

[H22ate]

Well I have a couple question for the foxbody guys out there. im planning on buying some upper & lower control arms for my 91 and some subframe connectors but not sure what brand to go with. What kind of control arms are going to be best for launches. I was looking at the BBK upper and lowers but I thought that may just be an entry level upgrade..... so without breaking the bank whats a good set up to go with??? As far as subframe connectors are they pretty much all the same except for bolt in or weld in? And which would be better. I appreciate the help cause im still kinda new into this mustang stuff. Thanks Alot!
Jason

[Viper_ed]

UPR makes chromolly ones that are reasonable priced as are the Steeda ones. You have the option of adjustable or non-adjustable which really becomes more of a question of how you plan on using the car. If it's mainly street driven and you have a budget in mind, I would think the non-adjustable ones will work just fine for you.

For the sub-frame connectors, I would recomend a set of Weld-In ones. Check with Lou (sonic03snake) about a set of the Laurel Mountian ones. They are a nice piece and are very reasonably priced.

[Darrell]

Well I have a couple question for the foxbody guys out there. im planning on buying some upper & lower control arms for my 91 and some subframe connectors but not sure what brand to go with. What kind of control arms are going to be best for launches. I was looking at the BBK upper and lowers but I thought that may just be an entry level upgrade..... so without breaking the bank whats a good set up to go with??? As far as subframe connectors are they pretty much all the same except for bolt in or weld in? And which would be better. I appreciate the help cause im still kinda new into this mustang stuff. Thanks Alot!
Jason

BBK uppers and lowers are a good low budget set. I ran them for years on my 91 GT that ran 11.59 and 60 footed 1.5s.

[fork5o]

im sn95, but i welded in subframes and theyre awesome. the only thing i heard about them is to get tubular and not the box cause theyre stronger. I just got arms this summer. im not a hard dragger so i just got the ffrp uppers but i heard if you drag you wanna get adjustable and i got a set of lowers from a shop. i guess the biggest thing i found out with the lowers is to try and get spherical bushings on one end. those also work great for me.
mm are a great buy, bbk and steeda are also good

[H22ate]

I do drive the car on the street but I also have 3 other vehicles so the stang gets driven like once a month or so,.... so im really not all that concerned with making it a nice daily driver i want the bastard to hook up :)..... within a year or so depending what kinda payment plan i can get on several fines:madashell: (damn sport bikes) its gettin a 347 from rodeheavers and spray. That was my plan for this year but i still havent gone to court for all my mis-fortune and stupidity.......

[Pure Stock]

When you are serious about hook, look here...
www.wolferacecraft.com

[H22ate]

When you are serious about hook, look here...
www.wolferacecraft.com (http://www.wolferacecraft.com)
My buddy just told me about them...... Thanks for the link!

[Mater]

When you are serious about hook, look here...
www.wolferacecraft.com

very true!:highfive:

[Killercanary]

Here's a great read on mustang suspensions and it will help you to understand a lot of the options you have available to you.

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_suspension.htm


Jason, my recommendations for control arms would be to stay away from urethane bushings. These are what you will find in most of the cheap aftermarket control arms. They are OK for straight line performance, but they have their limitations. My dad broke 4 bushings on his car before he upgrades to metco lowers with spherical bushings, and Rhode's double adjustable uppers with spherical's. On the street with our style of 4 link the urethane bushings cause the upper arms to load up and unwind during cornering resulting in a skittish ride at best. This is due to the design and the way they are positioned. Due to this positioning they must be allowed to twist somewhat at the mouting points. The spericals will allow for this. The only drawback to sphericals are that they tend to transmit a lot more noise into the car than a rubber or urethane bushing does. Also, not all spherical end are created equal and you really do get what you pay for. the Qa1 end used in a lot of the top end control arms are good. the other less expensive ones tend to have a thinner amount of teflon lining in the rod end and they can break and become extremely noisy over time.

IMO the best control arms to get would be ones that are double adjustable (can be adjusted on the car without removal) on both the upper and lower. This will allow proper location of the wheel in the wheel-well and allow you to adjust your pinion angle and instant center. These are KEY to getting the car to hook.

I run Global West LCA's on my car with the del-alum bearing on one end and a spherical on the other. At the moment my uppers are stock with new stock replacement bushings (I cracked my old ones in half).

[Rodeheaver's]

i have seen cars going 8s on wolfe stuff...

[Darrell]

Urethane bushings are fine as long as there is a grease zerk in the control arms to grease the bushings. I had a set of BBK uppers and lowers on my 91 GT and put 30,000+ miles on them. Grease them like you do with your ball joints and tie rod ends when you change your oil. The BBKs are cheap but are non adjustable. For an average Joe that doesn't race much they are fine. But like Pure Stock said, if you are serious about hook you need Wolfe Racecraft, Skinny Kid or Team Z.

[H22ate]

Yea i do believe Wolfe is the way to go.... seems to be about the best and its not an arm and a leg!