Timing Problems, Help!!!!!!!

[ArmyWarrant]

I have a MSD 6AL with a MSD coil and a MSD Pro Billet distributor and I am wondering where I need to set the timing on it.

From what I noticed there is no means of advance on the MSD box so I don't know where to set it initially. Right now it is running ok and the timing is at like 22*, but I don't see any advancing when the engine is revved.

I think it shouldn't be that much but I have never messed with a MSD box before so I hope someone can help me out.

[Martin0660]

:scratchchin: Not sure what you are asking here, but if I read this correct, you set the ignition timing with the distributor just like any other set-up. The MSD box is only an amplifier for the voltage to the coil. If it's a vaccum advance distributor, remove the vacuum line and set the base. If it;s mechanical, set the base and check full advance at 3,000 rpm. I'm not up to date on where people set their timing these days.

Bob Myers

[ArmyWarrant]

:scratchchin: Not sure what you are asking here, but if I read this correct, you set the ignition timing with the distributor just like any other set-up. The MSD box is only an amplifier for the voltage to the coil. If it's a vaccum advance distributor, remove the vacuum line and set the base. If it;s mechanical, set the base and check full advance at 3,000 rpm. I'm not up to date on where people set their timing these days.

Bob Myers

It's a non vacuum advance dizzy so I am guessing its mechanical right? I have the base set at 22* because that seems to be where it runs the best but I didn't notice any advance at all when I revved the car with the timing light on it. I hope the dizzy isn't junk

[ArmyWarrant]

well I went and checked out the components and its a 6AL, MSD coil, and a Mechanical Advance Pro Billet Dizzy.

[Hawkeye]

Are you saying you aren't seeing any difference between idle and full advance? If so, check to make sure you got the light hooked up correctly.

[ArmyWarrant]

Are you saying you aren't seeing any difference between idle and full advance? If so, check to make sure you got the light hooked up correctly.

Not that I noticed, looked the same at idle and full advance. I had the positive to positive on batt and neg to neg on batt and the clamp on #1 plug wire.

[ArmyWarrant]

OMFG!!!!!! Well I finally got a chance to get the dizzy cap off today and the whole freaking advance mechanism is gone from the dizzy. I can't even get new weights it's missing the bolts and everything. anyone got a msd 8579 pro billet that they don't need or is only good for parts?

[Rodeheaver's]

that sucks to here... i have seen a few people think that locking the timing out is "the thing to do" but deff for a street car you should have an initial timing setup and a full advance set up, coming in at yuor desired rpm, i have the parts here to correct that problem with the dist, but i would have to have it here to see exactly what it needs, so if you wanna bring the car or dist to me i can fix it..

[ArmyWarrant]

that sucks to here... i have seen a few people think that locking the timing out is "the thing to do" but deff for a street car you should have an initial timing setup and a full advance set up, coming in at yuor desired rpm, i have the parts here to correct that problem with the dist, but i would have to have it here to see exactly what it needs, so if you wanna bring the car or dist to me i can fix it..

I wish I could bring it in to you but I am in Virginia and not gonna be able to take any leave any time soon. Can I send you pics of it? would that help?

[ArmyWarrant]

I got the dizzy out and think all I need are the weights and the bolts that hold them in. I have a new advance kit already from summit. just need to remove the collar so I can slide the shaft up enough to unlock the advance on it.

[Rodeheaver's]

do those parts move? or are they locked together??

[ArmyWarrant]

they are locked together, but it looks ike if I remove the collar on the bottom side of the housing that I can slide the shaft up and remove the nut they have locking the two together.

[Rodeheaver's]

OK, so they locked it out... so opposite of the nut htere should be a slotted hole, what you will have to do is take out the nut and pull up the shaft and put the nut in the slotted hole, you will need the bushing to puth under the nut, and then just add the weights and springs...

[ArmyWarrant]

are there any bolts that hold the weights in place? If there is I don't have those and don't see them on summit or msd's website. Do you have them if they are needed?

[ArmyWarrant]

Nevermind, stupid moment LOL the threaded holes are for the rotor button. LOL!

[Rodeheaver's]

are there any bolts that hold the weights in place? If there is I don't have those and don't see them on summit or msd's website. Do you have them if they are needed?
the weights go under the springs...

[ArmyWarrant]

thanks just realized that, ordered the new weights next day air so I should have them sat.

[ArmyWarrant]

got the weights installed and set the timing to 33* at 2500 RPM:woot1:. Gonna go take it out and see how it runs now that it has advance in the dizzy. Don't know if I am gonna see much improvement power wise but I think the MPG is gonna improve over 8 MPG. :yes:

[ArmyWarrant]

Well I ran it down I-64 doing about 80 and it seems to run great, usually the gas gauge would've moved on the way back, as far as I drove it would've usually took about 1/8 tank of gas and the needle didn't move this time. :woot1::pepper::laughing1: