Can I get a Freaking Break!!!!!!

**SK@StreetLethal** · 07-06-2008, 04:43 PM

Those look like stock replacement pushrods. Looks like there allready showing wear. I would make sure the length is right and order hardened ones.

**ArmyWarrant** · 07-06-2008, 04:48 PM

OK I am gonna order a pushrod length checker and get some hardened pushrods.

**altoona** · 07-06-2008, 07:24 PM

Ah, not centered side to side, I thought you meant front to back. Disregard my previous post!

From the description it looks like that's a stock non-hardened push rod. I'd call Summit and ask, they could probably tell you.

**ArmyWarrant** · 07-07-2008, 05:03 PM

Originally Posted by altoona

Ah, not centered side to side, I thought you meant front to back. Disregard my previous post!

From the description it looks like that's a stock non-hardened push rod. I'd call Summit and ask, they could probably tell you.

Well no need to disregard your previous post. I just didn't understand what you were saying I guess. I talked to Tim today and he straightened me out on the pushrod length checker. The pushrods that were in the car were 3/8" to short and my valve train geometry was way off. I am willing to bet the roller tip was barely catching the valve stem at full lift. I got it now though, I need to order some 6 5/8" hardened push rods and get the springs checked to make sure they have the proper seat pressure. I also will definitely be pulling the heads now and checking PTV clearance with the new push rods. Hopefully I will see no valve damage and PTV will be good to go.

Thanks Alot to Tim, you have been a huge help!

**ArmyWarrant** · 08-04-2008, 11:25 PM

OK I've redone the valve geometry again with the adjustable push rod and I've found that I can use a pushrod that is 6 3/4" in length measured with a tape measure, I will use a digital caliper tomorrow at work to get exact measurements. I redid the geometry in better light so I could better tell the center of the valve stem and realized the previous measurement was a lil off. I also got my springs checked at my machine shop and they have the following numbers

installed height seat pressure valve open seat pressure valve closed
1.800" 340 130
1.850" 320 115

Are these springs ok for a z cam? Also I am gonna go with these pushrods so I can do it on the cheap so I can get my car running so I can enjoy it a lil this summer. I will be disassembling the motor this winter and reringing and rebearing the whole engine so I will get better pushrods then.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294778917

**Rodeheaver's** · 08-05-2008, 10:42 AM

the installed height of 1.800 is pretty good pressure for the z cam but you should check bind height of that spring because i thin kthe z cam is like .544 lift...

**ArmyWarrant** · 08-05-2008, 12:57 PM

.552 lift with 1.6 rockers. How do I check bind height? I've rotated the engine to full lift with .040 feelers gauge between the coils of the spring and they had slight drag on the feelers gauge. Is this good or is there something else I need to check.

**Rodeheaver's** · 08-05-2008, 01:34 PM

that method is acceptable..

**ArmyWarrant** · 08-05-2008, 04:39 PM

OK Thanks Tim I measured with a 6-7 mic today and the actual measurement is 6.765. Would the 6.805 be okay to use? Only .040 difference, don't know if this will be enough to make a diff or not.

**ArmyWarrant** · 09-06-2008, 04:26 PM

well I ordered some trick flow 6.75" pushrods from summit today. My DD cavalier looks like it is going to need a head so I gotta get the stang running for the time being. The head alone for the cavalier is gonna be 250 plus the gasket kit is 210. That together is more than I paid for the whole dang car.

**Black87GT** · 09-10-2008, 05:57 PM

damn bro, youve got my kind of luck :(

good luck with getting both back on the road!!

**ArmyWarrant** · 09-10-2008, 06:10 PM

Well got the pushrods and installing them shortly, hopefully the stang will be purring again soon. Just gotta refresh my memory on setting the rockers. How can I pump the lifters up with oil without turning the car over and running it?

**ArmyWarrant** · 09-10-2008, 11:27 PM

IT IS ALIVE!!!!!!!! Put the new pushrods in used a oil pump priming tool to pump the lifters up and it fired right up after get the fuel system primed after sitting for 3 months. I have a couple rockers I need to redo but other than that it should be mobile again tomorrow

**INSANELY CRAZY** · 09-15-2008, 08:54 PM

nice, glad to hear everythings finally working out for ya.

**ArmyWarrant** · 09-15-2008, 09:50 PM

Been driving it for a couple days now and its running ok. I need to make some adjustments to the timing and might be having issues with the msd pro billet dizzy not advancing like its supposed to. It was originally locked out but I reinstalled an advance kit and have the lightest springs and I believe they are the 20* of advance bushings in it but I am not seeing the advance happening. When should the timing advance, at what RPM?

**ArmyWarrant** · 09-18-2008, 08:58 PM

I checked the rockers tonight and found what I think are serious wear marks on the push rods. It seems they are making contact with the rockers at full lift. They are hitting on the back side of the rockers. I have absolutely no freaking luck! I think its punishment for making the jump from Chevy to Ford. I had a 1982 monte carlo prior to my first stang and decided to get the stang when I couldn't pass up the deal. I've always wanted to fox body and now they are giving me nothing but headaches. GRRRRRRRRRR

**INSANELY CRAZY** · 09-18-2008, 10:15 PM

Originally Posted by ArmyWarrant

I checked the rockers tonight and found what I think are serious wear marks on the push rods. It seems they are making contact with the rockers at full lift. They are hitting on the back side of the rockers. I have absolutely no freaking luck! I think its punishment for making the jump from Chevy to Ford. I had a 1982 monte carlo prior to my first stang and decided to get the stang when I couldn't pass up the deal. I've always wanted to fox body and now they are giving me nothing but headaches. GRRRRRRRRRR

as long as you own one thats all your gonna have... go back to chevy!!!

you'll be so much happier

**ArmyWarrant** · 09-18-2008, 10:31 PM

LOL, if I could at this point I might. Just don't have the funds to do it. I like the car but I mean it seems everytime I get a car I inherit someone else's problems. I am thinking I will sell the shortblock and then park it behind my house until I can finish up the engine bay clean up and find a 351 for it.

**INSANELY CRAZY** · 09-18-2008, 10:35 PM

yea, that usually is the issue when as you said "i couldnt pass up the deal" cheap car usually means something wrong with it and past owner doesnt wanna mess with it.

i almost got chris (fknfst) changed back over to chevy, workin on it,lol...

**ArmyWarrant** · 09-18-2008, 11:37 PM

Originally Posted by INSANELY CRAZY

yea, that usually is the issue when as you said "i couldnt pass up the deal" cheap car usually means something wrong with it and past owner doesnt wanna mess with it.

i almost got chris (fknfst) changed back over to chevy, workin on it,lol...

Well the thing is with the changeover the car I got was my first one. I knew this one wasn't perfect but ever since I got it I have found out that the PO had it assembled by some shadetree mechanic and nothing was done right. So I wouldn't doubt if the dizzy or the MSD box are screwed. It would just be icing on the cake. I can't really complain to much I only have about 1400 in this one right now, the first one I had over 9500 in and it went to shit due to some shi@#ty procomp alum heads and a faulty camshaft. I am gonna try getting a regular vacuum advance dizzy and taking the rockers off and clearancing them for the pushrods. I just need info on how to run a non efi dizzy in a car that was originally EFI and doesn't have the harness that had the wires for the EFI dizzy anymore. Got any ideas?