Yes, you have to drill holes.
GET TO THE CHOPPER!
Yes, you have to drill holes.
GET TO THE CHOPPER!
1991 Jewel Green Ford Mustang LX ~ 5.0L / 5-Speed
2011 Torch Red Ford Ranger ~ 2.3L / 5-Speed
1971 White Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu w/ Blue Stripes ~ 8.2L(502) / 4-Speed
01' Gt=
Mac 2.5 in. prochamber with high flow cats, mac exhaust, steeda strut tower brace and bbk alum. underdrive pullies and more to come
87' Notchback 5.0 =
3.55's, rebuilt t-5, upper and lower control arms, steeda subframes, torque box reinforcements, mac girdle, s.s brake lines, b.s flywheel, ram hd powergrip clutch, steeda adj. clutch cable kit, steeda tri-ax and way to much other stuff to list
I think I'm gonna try mounting it under the back bumper cover, any recommendations on the brand and model of the switch? So far I've seen mainly Flaming River and Painless, I think Moroso makes one too.
Depending on what wiring method you use, watch the amp ratings of the switch. Most of the summit / jegs / morosso type switches are rated pretty darned low, and likely lower that a FI car needs. You can indeed get away with the low amp switch if it's just operating a main realy like MADD or others suggest, but if the switch carries the load, go big ;)
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