need advice on installing dizzy, initial start up, engine break in

**White5.0** · 12-23-2008, 01:48 PM

Ill be starting my car for the first time this weekend most likely, and would like advice from you guys on how i should go about doing a few things.

im going to prime my oil pump of course, but have a few questions on this.

1) can i fill my engine with oil through the distributor hole? im going to have my valve covers off so i can make sure oil is comming up through all of my pushrods so i didnt plan on filling through there.

2) should i fill my oil filter with oil before i put it on since this is my first start up? I figure this way, all of my parts will get oil sooner when i start it, rather than having the oil pass through the filter first

3)How should i go about priming my oil? ive read a little on this but not sure. from what i understand, i need to use a drill. but what do i put on the drill so i can connnect it to the oil pump drive shaft? also, which way do i spin it - clockwise or counterclockwise?

4) How do i properly install the distributor? from what ive read, ill need to make sure piston #1 is at TDC...then what? do i just drop it in?

5) Once i get it started, how should i go about breaking it in? obviously im not going to go around ripping on it, but is there a certain rpm i should be staying under? should i be doing a lot of engine breaking to slow the car down or what? about how many miles should i be easy on it?

6) Finally, how often should i be changing the oil throughout the first few thousand miles of its life? and what kind of oil should i be using? ive heard to not use synthetic at first.

Sorry this was long as hell but i want to do it right and try to not ruin anything! any help would be greatly appreciated!

**cam303** · 12-23-2008, 02:06 PM

Originally Posted by White5.0

Ill be starting my car for the first time this weekend most likely, and would like advice from you guys on how i should go about doing a few things.

im going to prime my oil pump of course, but have a few questions on this.

1) can i fill my engine with oil through the distributor hole? im going to have my valve covers off so i can make sure oil is comming up through all of my pushrods so i didnt plan on filling through there.

2) should i fill my oil filter with oil before i put it on since this is my first start up? I figure this way, all of my parts will get oil sooner when i start it, rather than having the oil pass through the filter first

3)How should i go about priming my oil? ive read a little on this but not sure. from what i understand, i need to use a drill. but what do i put on the drill so i can connnect it to the oil pump drive shaft? also, which way do i spin it - clockwise or counterclockwise?

4) How do i properly install the dizzy? from what ive read, ill need to make sure piston #1 is at TDC...then what? do i just drop it in?

5) Once i get it started, how should i go about breaking it in? obviously im not going to go around ripping on it, but is there a certain rpm i should be staying under? should i be doing a lot of engine breaking to slow the car down or what? about how many miles should i be easy on it?

6) Finally, how often should i be changing the oil throughout the first few thousand miles of its life? and what kind of oil should i be using? ive heard to not use synthetic at first.

Sorry this was long as hell but i want to do it right and try to not ruin anything! any help would be greatly appreciated!

1) Yes

2) No need if you are going to prime it before starting

3) You need a priming rod, I have one you can borrow if you need it.

4) Make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor cap.

5) There are a lot of different opinions on this but I would just drive it regularly for a little while. 500 miles should be plenty. Race engines see nowhere near this breakin time.

6) Use regular dino for breakin and I would do first change in the first few hundred miles.

**Balaska347** · 12-23-2008, 02:58 PM

I agree with everything above.

A minor note, just make sure when you set it at TDC make sure it the compression stroke.

**White5.0** · 12-23-2008, 03:50 PM

Originally Posted by cam303

1) Yes

2) No need if you are going to prime it before starting

3) You need a priming rod, I have one you can borrow if you need it.

4) Make sure the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor cap.

5) There are a lot of different opinions on this but I would just drive it regularly for a little while. 500 miles should be plenty. Race engines see nowhere near this breakin time.

6) Use regular dino for breakin and I would do first change in the first few hundred miles.

Thank you for the advice

as for the priming rod...do you know if this is this something i can get at advance auto? i know you can borrow a lot of specialty tools there

**White5.0** · 12-23-2008, 03:51 PM

Originally Posted by Balaska347

I agree with everything above.

A minor note, just make sure when you set it at TDC make sure it the compression stroke.

ah yes ill remember to do that..thank you!

**cam303** · 12-23-2008, 04:55 PM

Originally Posted by White5.0

Thank you for the advice

as for the priming rod...do you know if this is this something i can get at advance auto? i know you can borrow a lot of specialty tools there

You may be able to. I got mine at summit.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

**White5.0** · 12-23-2008, 05:10 PM

Originally Posted by cam303

You may be able to. I got mine at summit.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

oo cool...thats not expensive at all ill prob just buy one so ill always have it

**TJH64** · 12-23-2008, 09:04 PM

Use an electric drill, a heavy duty 1/2" one works best, to prime the engine.
Make sure it is in reverse.
If you didn't pack the pump with vaseline during assembly, it may take a few seconds for the suction of the pump to pick up the oil. You will definately notice the load on the drill when the oil starts circulating

**White5.0** · 12-23-2008, 09:08 PM

Originally Posted by TJH64

Use an electric drill, a heavy duty 1/2" one works best, to prime the engine.
Make sure it is in reverse.
If you didn't pack the pump with vaseline during assembly, it may take a few seconds for the suction of the pump to pick up the oil. You will definately notice the load on the drill when the oil starts circulating

alright yeah ill make sure its in reverse for sure....i didnt pack the pump with vaseline (never heard that one before). but yeah i heard it really kills drills priming an engine. a have a pretty heavy duty electric one, hope i dont fry it!! lol

**gmkillr** · 12-23-2008, 09:18 PM

It's called a distributor.

**White5.0** · 12-23-2008, 09:22 PM

Originally Posted by gmkillr

It's called a distributor.

and you, my friend, are called an asshole....hahah j/k

**97LaserRed** · 12-23-2008, 09:22 PM

Originally Posted by gmkillr

It's called a distributor.

hahahahahaha i was waitin for someone to point that out!!!!

**gmkillr** · 12-23-2008, 09:37 PM

Originally Posted by White5.0

and you, my friend, are called an asshole....hahah j/k

There's no need for name calling here.
Merely stating a fact............

**White5.0** · 12-23-2008, 09:45 PM

Originally Posted by gmkillr

There's no need for name calling here.
Merely stating a fact............

i fixed my original post for all you ball busters who can't handle dizzy!!

**gmkillr** · 12-23-2008, 10:01 PM

Originally Posted by White5.0

i fixed my original post for all you ball busters who can't handle dizzy!!

LOL!!

**INSANELY CRAZY** · 12-23-2008, 10:52 PM

i never dry start any motor.. no matter if it has 1mile or 100k miles i always fill the oil filter. everytime i do an oil change the filter gets filled.

and once you go to sythetic it's not recommened to go back to s.a.e

**97LaserRed** · 12-23-2008, 11:24 PM

Originally Posted by INSANELY CRAZY

once you go to sythetic it's not recommened to go back to s.a.e

x2! if i were you i would run semi syn. full syn likes to find leaks and cause problems lol. im not too crazy on filling the oil filter up first.it wont hurt the motor at all. i have seen motors run 30-45 min without any oil and be fine after filling it up.

**wick** · 12-24-2008, 12:31 AM

Seeing as ou are priming the engine dont bother filling the filter. Get a 5/16 socket. Use a long 1/4 inch drive extension.Put the appratus in the drill of choice. Start running the drill in reverse. It will get real hard in no time. At this point you can use a ratchet nd get tho oil flowing to the pushrods. Trust me, a standard drill wont be able to do it. Mine started smoking. hahahah

**White5.0** · 12-24-2008, 12:56 AM

Originally Posted by 97LaserRed

x2! if i were you i would run semi syn. full syn likes to find leaks and cause problems lol. im not too crazy on filling the oil filter up first.it wont hurt the motor at all. i have seen motors run 30-45 min without any oil and be fine after filling it up.

Yeah im gonna use regular oil, not synthetic...also im not gonna put oil in the filter cause im gonna be priming the pump anyways so itll get in there...

Originally Posted by wick

Seeing as ou are priming the engine dont bother filling the filter. Get a 5/16 socket. Use a long 1/4 inch drive extension.Put the appratus in the drill of choice. Start running the drill in reverse. It will get real hard in no time. At this point you can use a ratchet nd get tho oil flowing to the pushrods. Trust me, a standard drill wont be able to do it. Mine started smoking. hahahah

hahaha so you suggest doing it by hand so i dont ruin my drill? thats a good idea

**Jivepepper** · 12-24-2008, 01:39 AM

I believe in putting some load on a new engine to help set the rings. Mine was a fresh build so I just started it after filling filter full first.

Besides it's the biggest pia to prime modular engines. You need a pressure container to force oil in from the sending unit. Some have converted bug sprayers and got it to work.