That pic is awesome.
mark
'04 Mach 1. Built. Turbo. 667whp/631wtq
'06 Focus. Built. Turbo. WMI. 12.43 @ 115 (sold)
'03 Mach 1 : 12.61 @ 106.59 (sold)
he's into that, that spiritual stuff. <><
Hey Mike, you ever there in the early afternoons?
I've been getting out like 3ish this month and wouldn't mind stopping by to BS and see the new toy.
-J
'91 LX Bimini Blue
427"/88mm on 16psi
'99 Contour SVT
Clean DD
97laserred ran a compression test on the car with me (thanks again brian) and the results were good. Highest was 170 lowest was 154 off the top of my head. Spark plugs looked ok too so I'm not positive what's going on with the car really. One thing I've been grumbling about is that it sounds like my eaton's rear bearings have been going bad or there is some kind of rotor rubbing or something. It's a stage 4 port with less than 4000 miles on it and has made the sound since it was ported but maybe it's just giving up now.
Mike wants to be sure we did it right so we'll go over it with him first but it looks like the motor is healthy. Now to do something about that eaton... ;)
Just thinking out loud here: I have the control for my boost a pump in my glove box - if it was bumped and moved from putting things in and out would that affect the fuel delivery or would the tune compensate for it?
I guess I should add that the reason for my concern with my dyno is that it has previously dynoed at 519.7 rwhp as opposed to the 475 std I did on Tuesday. Both were on nearly identical dynojets.
Any help or insight would be appreciated. I'm all ears :)
MBH never showed 97LaserRed the BAP?
See that little black thing on the top left with the dial? I'm wondering if it got bumped at some point or something. I know this is retarded but I don't think I ever wrote what the BAP was at when I picked the car up
:o![]()
MBH needs to STFU.
maybe your just that bad of a driver Bo, even on the dyno. lol.
Last edited by 2001GTTT; 01-10-2009 at 08:23 PM.
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1931 Ford Model A - Project
1991 BMW 325iX
1978 Ford F150
1952 Ford F2 - Project
2001 Mustang GT - gone but never forgotten. RIP.
haven't talked to him yet so just trying to get a bit of a consensus. & I know you guys are just dicking around![]()
I said one of you would be surprised.. I didn't say I knew which one lol its anybody's guess since somebody didn't go to the track with me this summer.. some mumbo jumbo about a job :p
Here's my opinion.... I suppose that bumping it could affect its ability to do what its supposed to do (even though i doubt some bumping around would) but did you have a/f done with the dyno run (sorry, i didn't read back through this whole thing)... this will probably reveal a pretty good hint about whether or not the boost-a-pump is ok. If you're running pig rich all of a sudden then its possible you're getting too much fuel pressure - or oppositely (and bad) you're loosing voltage and you're running lean. However, as I said, the A/F graph will tell you if you have problems with the a/f. If the A/F looks ok, then i think you can look away from it being a Boost-a-pump issue....
Do you have the resources to hook a computer to the car and get a read-out? If you're getting a ton of knock for some reason, then its going to pull timing and if enough is pulled, then that could drop your numbers a bit.
Was boost staying steady? Also, as opposed to doing a compression test, do you have access to the tools to do a leak-down test? This will tell you a lot more about the condition of your piston rings than a compression test will.
If compression is ok, and a/f is ok, and timing isn't being pulled, and boost is staying steady, then i dunno? haha - there are just some first thoughts of mine off the top of my head. I'm not sure how your car delivers spark, but i'm guessing its some sort of coil-per-cylinder setup? are all the coils fully functional?
Just gotta start with the basic stuff and rule the easy stuff out. I've had the problem in the past of immediately assuming its something major and getting all worked up - only to find its something stupid and little
2015 Corvette Z06
- Shark Grey / Kalahari
- bolt-ons, tune, lots of carbon fiber (642/671 rwhp/tq)
Bish, I really really appreciate the post man.
I didn't opt for the a/f because I just wanted to get some numbers & I was hoping to do long tubes sometime so having Mike weld in an o2 bung would be a waste of money. Hindsight tells me it wouldn't have been a waste though...
I have a diablosport predator hand held, and I'm not entirely sure what info I can get out of that - although I don't have a cord that can connect it to the computer, but I suppose I could buy one of those huh?
I'm pretty sure boost should be staying stead, but Mike was running the car on the dyno - not me - so I'm not sure as I didn't get a look at the gauge and we didn't hook it up to read boost.
I'll have to ask Brian if he has the stuff to do a leakdown test or not. I'm really wondering WTF still. at first I jumped to (bad) conclusions, but thats just my nature with things I'm overprotective of I suppose.
Here are the numbers from the compression test
(driver's front)
168
170
154
163
(driver's rear)
(passenger's front)
166
162
169
162
(passenger's rear)
and yeah its a COP per cylinder, so I'm thinking I ought to check those out pretty soon... although pulling the plugs and finding one that is still clean will give it away pretty easy with a plug looking brand new... right?
I'm hoping that it's something stupid and little - or just my eaton's bearings/caserub getting outta control so I have a legitimate reason to go whipple
Thanks again for the insight, I'll take whatever I can get!
Without monitoring a/f and boost pressure just guessing at the problem is like pissing in the wind.
I would go back and re-dyno monitoring both of those...as well as fuel pump duty cycle, voltage at the pumps, voltage at the battery, and fuel pressure. Or buy an x-cal and monitor it on the street.
-JOHN
Carburetors and SAE wrenches.................
Buy Made in the USA - It Matters.
Bookmarks