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Thread: This is what it looks...

  1. #1
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    This is what it looks...

    Like when your engine eats up your head gasket and spits it back out in the oil.
    First Sign of Trouble
    Under the intake
    How in the world do you clean up all the oil passages. The spider is only clear because I ran my finger down it to see if the debris was metal shavings. Luckly it is not metal.

  2. #2
    Senior Member blkp42e's Avatar
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    that sure looks fun.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by blkp42e View Post
    that sure looks fun.
    You think.
    Here was my wifes compassionate comment:
    Quote Originally Posted by The Wife
    This only happens when you are grouchy and nasty...
    I tried to explain that was why I was grouchy. She did not care.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Rodeheaver's's Avatar
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    that looks like oil sludge from not changing the oil or from running the wrong oil, and yes the milky stuff is watered down oil... i bet that sludge is under the valve covers and everywhere... your best to not try and clean that with engine in the car, all those parts will need hot tanked to get that crap out... I have seen bad sludge almost solidify and clog up the oil pump and stop it from spinning..
    2015 A6 Mustang GT that so far has gone 9.48@147 but still the fastest prochargerd S550 in the world aside from Tim Essick's!
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rodeheaver's View Post
    that looks like oil sludge from not changing the oil or from running the wrong oil, and yes the milky stuff is watered down oil... i bet that sludge is under the valve covers and everywhere... your best to not try and clean that with engine in the car, all those parts will need hot tanked to get that crap out... I have seen bad sludge almost solidify and clog up the oil pump and stop it from spinning..
    Thanks for the advice, it is ALWAYS appreciated. But I have not given you all the information. It is not your normal engine sludge. When I looked closely and the mess, it is clear that there is a lot of gasket material in the valley. The short of it is that the heads were not torqued down.

    Here is the whole story from another post...

    It was my fault, I made an assumption. Plus I am a noob. All the trouble signs were there. I did not want to believe it.

    The kid I bought the car from said that there was nothing wrong with the engine. He had just sold the parts off of it to get some money for a Kenny Brown SC. The Cobra Upper intake was missing, but the lower was there. So it sounded right.

    When I got it in the shop, I noticed the lower intake did not have any bolts in it. I called the kid and he said that at the end he was thinking of putting a Trick Flow intake on the car and had lifted the lower intake and I would need to replace the gaskets. So I started at the lower intake take cleaned, painted, powder coated and assembled all the 'missing parts'.

    But a compression test had my number all over the place.
    Cyl1: 185 psi
    Cyl2: 30 psi
    Cyl3: 60 psi
    Cyl4: 135 psi
    Cyl5: 165 psi
    Cyl6: 0? psi
    Cyl7 and 8: Why bother.

    I was told that since the engine was sitting dry for 3 years that a little oil in the cylinder and running ring hone and light surface rust. So I was going to try it. The squirt of oil in 2,3 and 6 gained me 30-40 psi.

    I was then changing the oil, I first got about 2-3 inches of antifreeze, then nice new oil draining out. I told myself that when the intake had been lifted, it drained antifreeze into the pan. At the time I did not know that emulsified oil would separate from the water after time. Also, there was not debris in the oil.

    So I fired it up. And it idled. I little rough, but not bad, except for the tapping in the video I posted. I got excited and started reviewing the MD State Insp. check list. I need to repair one tag light and replace a dash light. I was ready. But the tapping was still there. It would not go away after the car warmed up. I was hoping it was a collapsed lifter that would pump up.

    Then I pulled the dip stick and saw the chocolate milkshake.

    As soon as I get my E-Torx sockets back I will remove the power steering bracket from the head and check the head gasket out. But when I removed the head bolts, the first and last bolt were tight. But the three in the middle needed almost no force to break free. I don't know if the kid before me had removed them, or if I have blown the gasket material completely out and relieved any forces on the head bolts and the bolts came right out...
    That slop in the valley is not bearings or metal. It is chunks of gaskets. It did not have that in the engine when I first changed the oil, so it is something I did. When the head comes off, I would bet the most of the head gasket is now in little bits floating all around the engine. I never though to check the torque on the head bolts. 'Torque to yield, just leave them alone', so I thought. This is why I only mess with my cars, I don't have the experience to subject this to someone else's car.

  6. #6
    I'm with Tim in a huge way. Water/antifreeze can wash off bearings quick. My 2 cents is pull it, clean it, and rebuild it right.
    ChuckT
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  7. #7
    Senior Member no1fordgirl's Avatar
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    wow..

    Good luck!
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  8. #8
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    Heres what my oil looked like after I blew a head gasket. I wish you the best of luck
    Attached Images Attached Images
    2013 Race Red F-150 Screw FX4 Ecoboost

    1994 Rio Red GT
    10.60 @122.88
    Sold

  9. #9
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    BOY THAT LOOKS familiar.

  10. #10
    Senior Member RUTHLESS's Avatar
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    I say bolt it back up then put it on e-bay and sell it out of state. lol

    No I am just kidding! Damn what a mess.
    Stock 03 Cobra Vroom Vroom!!

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRRummel View Post
    BOY THAT LOOKS familiar.
    Yeah, had i kept that engine i would have had to have it rebuilt. Like Tim said once that coolant gets in the bearings and all its pretty much junk.
    2013 Race Red F-150 Screw FX4 Ecoboost

    1994 Rio Red GT
    10.60 @122.88
    Sold

  12. #12
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    A better idea of what I am dealing with.

    I go the driver side head off. Things are not so bad. It defiantly looks like the head gasket just blow little pieces in the to valley because it was not torqued down. The head bolts on the passenger side seem to all be at about 90 ft/lbs. Three on the driver side seemed to only be at about 25 ft/lbs when I removed them.

    I have not checked the heads for trueness. Most of the crud is in the valley. But the oil drain pan seems to have enough gasket flakes in it that I am concerned that the cam and crank oil passages will clog up.

    So, Engine Flush or strip it and tank it? (after I wipe up as much as I can, and new bottom end bearings.)





    Last edited by DRRummel; 02-09-2009 at 03:36 AM.

  13. #13
    My 2 cents...

    Take it apart and get it cleaned out, block, crank, heads, cam, oil pan, all of it. If it was mine, I'd replace the lifters too, to be 100% safe.
    ChuckT
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  14. #14
    Senior Member Rodeheaver's's Avatar
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    If those piston tops were that clean when you took it apart, then yes you had a totally blown head gasket and it was leaking water into all cylinders, and literally steam cleaning the tops of the pistons.... YOu will need to take it completelly out of the car and have the block hot tanked and cleaned like a mofo, the block decks will need to be checked for straightness, the heads will need to be checked for straightness and prob cut.. And if the crank was scared up, you will need to have it pollished...
    2015 A6 Mustang GT that so far has gone 9.48@147 but still the fastest prochargerd S550 in the world aside from Tim Essick's!
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