Engine Question

**RUSH2112** · 01-17-2007, 12:46 PM

I have an opportunity to buy and engine block and this is what the guy is selling (apparently has a few blocks). Can someone please explain what this means? Sorry for being ignorant.

What I want to do with the block is have it cleaned, honed, and bored .30 over for a 331 or 347 stroker kit to be installed along with AFR185 heads, new cam, rockers, and basically everything new.

Do you want one with or without main caps? If you do a four bolt main conversion like I did you won't need them. Holds the crank together better without the extra weight underneath the crank like the main girdles.

If a 4 bolt main upgrade would be worth the money. I have one with mains.

**Viper_ed** · 01-17-2007, 12:59 PM

IMO, a 4 bolt main upgrade on a late model 302 block makes no sense. You will split the lifter valley before you will have a main cap issue.

**RUSH2112** · 01-17-2007, 01:09 PM

So I want/need a block without main caps?

**Viper_ed** · 01-17-2007, 02:02 PM

Originally Posted by RUSH2112

So I want/need a block without main caps?

No you need one with main caps, but the 2 bolt mains that the block already has are all you'll need.

**RUSH2112** · 01-17-2007, 02:16 PM

I don't even know why I bother asking for help on this site. Seems like somebody always has to make light about someone's inexperience. It's just not worth it. Not only did you manage to embarrass me, but you didn't answer my question and if you did, then I still don't understand becuase I don't understand the terminology.

**fast4ord** · 01-17-2007, 03:03 PM

I agree with you on this site, sometimes i think about giving up on it. Anyway, what i know about 4 bolt mains, the block would be totally different than a stock 5.0 block. This would make it more money, would deffinitely be stronger, but it depends on how strong you need? Alot of people run stock blocks with alot of boltons, blowers, turbos and they hold up. You could put a stock block together with a main support and that would probably be good enough. You could go even stronger with aftermarket block like Dart etc., but this would be alot more expensive. Depending on what your doing with the engine would depend if you NEED this or not. Hope this helps some.

**Stangman701** · 01-17-2007, 03:17 PM

The main caps are what actually hold the crank in place. They usually have two bolts, one on either side of the crank that bolt into the block. I think this guy is saying that he could modify a stock block to accept 4 bolt mains which would use two bolts on either side of the crank to hold the cap in place. This might be slightly stronger, but like Ed mentioned above the newer 5.0 blocks have weaknesses in other areas that would make that mod pretty much useless. If you're staying naturally aspirated I'd say the stock 5.0 block will take all you can throw at it as long as it's put together right.

**RUSH2112** · 01-17-2007, 03:27 PM

Finally. 2 posts that are well written and ones that I can understand. Thanks for your replies. I really appreciate the explanations without the 2nd grade comments.

All I am going to do is get the parts I need to complete this block and have it stroked out. It will be strictly N/A.

**madmaxin22** · 01-17-2007, 03:47 PM

I would stop all communications with that guy if thats as clearly as he can express himself on the keyboard.... get a 2 bolt, you'll be fine

**RUSH2112** · 01-17-2007, 03:55 PM

Originally Posted by madmaxin22

I would stop all communications with that guy if thats as clearly as he can express himself on the keyboard.... get a 2 bolt, you'll be fine

+1 Thanks for the advice.

**Steve-0** · 01-17-2007, 04:04 PM

:readrules:

calm down here children. Get the 2 bolt block, its all you need staying N/A.

**Sonic03snake** · 01-17-2007, 04:10 PM

Ok guys, I cleaned this thread up. Keep it on topic and be nice!!!!

**04yellowcobra** · 01-17-2007, 05:10 PM

Another vote for staying 2 bolt.

Why not just yank the motor you have in there now and send it off to the machine shop? Instead of spending the money on another block.

Also do you have tranny upgrades in mind? The factory tranny is only rated for 300 ft. lbs. and a 347/afr 185 combo better make well over 350 ft. lbs. at the tire, 400+ at the crank.

Later

**Pure Stock** · 01-17-2007, 05:37 PM

Originally Posted by RUSH2112

I have an opportunity to buy and engine block and this is what the guy is selling (apparently has a few blocks). Can someone please explain what this means? Sorry for being ignorant.

What I want to do with the block is have it cleaned, honed, and bored .30 over for a 331 or 347 stroker kit to be installed along with AFR185 heads, new cam, rockers, and basically everything new.

Do you want one with or without main caps? If you do a four bolt main conversion like I did you won't need them. Holds the crank together better without the extra weight underneath the crank like the main girdles.

If a 4 bolt main upgrade would be worth the money. I have one with mains.

A few questions for you.
1. Is this a late model roller block you speak of that this gentleman is selling?
2. What is the max rpm the engine will see?

IMO I would use the 2 bolt mains. Just like the factory assembled a late model roller block. Try to employ lighter parts in the rotating/reciprocating assembly (crank,rods,pistons). Tie the mains together with a main girdle. Not sure if you have ever heard of a lifter valley girdle?? Again, IMO, the intake ties the two cylinder banks together, so that is a lifter valley girdle in essence. Do the 347 c.i.d. Do not believe the hype on the rod ratio 347 vs.332 debate over on the corral.

As stated above. Intended rpm ceiling and a thousand other variables will dictate longevity. Keep it under 6.500 rpm and have a blast!!

**mlowry1260** · 01-17-2007, 07:48 PM

I can echo what Pure Stock said, go with a 347, 2-bolt main roller block. There isn't enough meat in the the main webbing of the stock block to make 4-bolt conversion would the time & money. Keep the RPM under 6250 with a stock computer & have some fun. The difference in torque with this setup will amaze you.

I don't buy the argument about the weight below on a girdle. That sounds like corral.net myth to me. I'm not 100% sold on girdles either. They have to be setup properly and only seem to hold things in the block upon a catastrophic failure.

**coralcoupe1993** · 01-17-2007, 11:34 PM

Did I miss something? I guess things got ugly? I would pick up Ford Small Block book and check things out. Go to a book store there are a few that will explain different blocks, heads, and how stuff works. Sounds silly but if you do the research your self, it will be easier to understand and build your self. Luckily my Dad had me tearing apart Ford Big Blocks and Y-Blocks when I was 12. With that and the books I have, I still have a ton to learn (unless it is a 332/352/360/406/410/390/428/427 FE

)

**RUSH2112** · 01-18-2007, 12:53 PM

Thanks for your answers guys. Here are a couple of respsonses:

"Why not just yank the motor you have in there now and send it off to the machine shop? Instead of spending the money on another block."

The reason for buying another block is becuase I want to continue to limp along with my current engine for another year while the stroker motor is being built. When it is done, then all I have to do is have my current motor pulled and the new stroker motor put in.

"A few questions for you.
1. Is this a late model roller block you speak of that this gentleman is selling?
2. What is the max rpm the engine will see?"

1. I assume it is a late model roller block, but I can't be sure. I will ask though.

2. I have never had the RPM over 5500 (yellow line). I typically will shift as it approaches the beginning of redline which is 6000RPM, i believe.

"Also do you have tranny upgrades in mind? The factory tranny is only rated for 300 ft. lbs. and a 347/afr 185 combo better make well over 350 ft. lbs. at the tire, 400+ at the crank."

At this time, I was going to continue to use the stock tranny and hope that it would hold up for another year. After the stroker motor is built and in, I will start to save for a bigger tranny (looking for a 6spd). Can I survive with the stock tranny if I 'baby' it?

"Did I miss something? I guess things got ugly?"

Yes, some people just don't play very nice.

"I would pick up Ford Small Block book and check things out. Go to a book store there are a few that will explain different blocks, heads, and how stuff works. Sounds silly but if you do the research your self, it will be easier to understand and build your self. "

I already have about 3-4 books and undersand how engines work and go together, I have just never put one together. While I don't think it would be too hard to learn, I am a little leary of things like clearances and such that are crucial in order for the engine to perform properly. Who knows, maybe I'll get better. I certainly have plenty of time to learn.

**RUSH2112** · 01-18-2007, 01:15 PM

Anyone wanna try to estimate how much this stroker motor will put out HP wise when it is done?

**Pure Stock** · 01-18-2007, 01:27 PM

At this time, I was going to continue to use the stock tranny and hope that it would hold up for another year. After the stroker motor is built and in, I will start to save for a bigger tranny (looking for a 6spd). Can I survive with the stock tranny if I 'baby' it?

The stock T-5 does have it's limitations. On the other hand, I've seen one, a T-5 never opened once for a rebuild (circa 1993) that performed flawlessly behind a multitude of combinations. A true slick was never used with it though, until the past few seasons. Softer launches, a clutch that disengages fully, along with a light race weight no doubt contribute to the longevity. A quality aftermarket shifter with positive stops will help alleviate bent/broken shift fork.

Keeping the proper fluid in a T-5 along with a clutch that has been properly adjusted will help extend the life of the trans.

By the way in supercharged form this T-5 I speak of absorbed roughly 425 RWHP and the torque probably paralleled or exceeded the RWHP number in the fact that this application was forced induction.

**RUSH2112** · 01-18-2007, 01:39 PM

Originally Posted by Pure Stock

At this time, I was going to continue to use the stock tranny and hope that it would hold up for another year. After the stroker motor is built and in, I will start to save for a bigger tranny (looking for a 6spd). Can I survive with the stock tranny if I 'baby' it?

The stock T-5 does have it's limitations. On the other hand, I've seen one, a T-5 never opened once for a rebuild (circa 1993) that performed flawlessly behind a multitude of combinations. A true slick was never used with it though, until the past few seasons. Softer launches, a clutch that disengages fully, along with a light race weight no doubt contribute to the longevity. A quality aftermarket shifter with positive stops will help alleviate bent/broken shift fork.

Keeping the proper fluid in a T-5 along with a clutch that has been properly adjusted will help extend the life of the trans.

By the way in supercharged form this T-5 I speak of absorbed roughly 425 RWHP and the torque definitely exceeded the RWHP number in the fact that this application was forced induction.

Thanks for the reply. I do not race my car and it will never see the track, so aside from the occasional torque on the tranny from power shifting, it is strictly a street car.