Originally Posted by chuck94
if u are tapping on the fuel rail and then it starts u could be getting the injector driver to be making contact with the injector causing the injector to pulse. that clicking noise is the injector opening and closing. are they stock furl rails? aftermarket fuel rails?
01' Gt=
Mac 2.5 in. prochamber with high flow cats, mac exhaust, steeda strut tower brace and bbk alum. underdrive pullies and more to come
87' Notchback 5.0 =
3.55's, rebuilt t-5, upper and lower control arms, steeda subframes, torque box reinforcements, mac girdle, s.s brake lines, b.s flywheel, ram hd powergrip clutch, steeda adj. clutch cable kit, steeda tri-ax and way to much other stuff to list
STOCK FUEL RAILS IF I DONT FIGURE IT OUT SOON A JR VICTOR AND CARB GOING ON IT
STOCK FUEL RAILS IF I DONT FIGURE IT OUT SOON A JR VICTOR AND CARB GOING ON IT
hahaha are u injectors new or used ? do u have noid lights check to make sure your injector drivers are firing if they are i would say go to aftermarket fuel rail and check ur injectors for continuity there mite be an open in one of ur injectors. from what u have told me i would be looking at the injector drivers firstlet me know what u find
01' Gt=
Mac 2.5 in. prochamber with high flow cats, mac exhaust, steeda strut tower brace and bbk alum. underdrive pullies and more to come
87' Notchback 5.0 =
3.55's, rebuilt t-5, upper and lower control arms, steeda subframes, torque box reinforcements, mac girdle, s.s brake lines, b.s flywheel, ram hd powergrip clutch, steeda adj. clutch cable kit, steeda tri-ax and way to much other stuff to list
now i got it running again but wont start when cold gotta spray carb choke cleaner in throttle body any suggestions
Do you have access to a scanner? I would check the parameters on all the sensors with a scanner. Intake air temp. sensors used to get carboned up and cause problems like hard starts and very rich conditons. You could try unplugging it. Possiblly coolant temp sensor too. Is there crossed up or grounded wiring? (Pinched in the Bellhousing?) If you can get a scanner on it it should be pretty easy to figure out. Try unplugging the MAF sensor. If they get anything on the sensing wire it drives the computer crazy. Even though the MAF sensor is new it could still be bad. Is there fuel in the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line? If so it's bad. Where do you live? If it's not too far away and you can wait until next weekend I could bring my scanner home from work and take a look at it. If the fuel pump is staying on with just a relay replacement, it sounds like the relay is bad or wrong.
i put two new relays on it for fuel pump i dont got a scanner i live connellsville pa i'd pay u if u could do that for me as nothings cheap anymore thanks
i'll try them sensors maybe b4 next weekend
I am going to hook my scanner up to my car to make sure I can get live data. I know early EEC 4 cars you couldn't read data. I am pretty sure by 93 you could. Either way I can at least run some self tests and see if I can get any codes. You should be able to just unplug at least some of those sensors. If you unplug thwe MAF the car goes into limp home mode and will run without it. Anyway just PM me before Friday if you want me to scan it.
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