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Thread: BeaveRun Flat Out Friday June 5th - Who else is going?

  1. #21
    Formerly 2011 GB/CS & CST 03 03 OW SVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Aubele View Post
    Make sure your brake pads are in good shape before you show up to BR. And bring an extra set, track is HARD on brakes.
    I was there today and at the end of my second session i had some serious fade. I think my next step is slotted rotors and some synthetic brake fluid.
    I have Hawk performance plus pads on it now and they work well but man do you get some brake dust.

    BTW had a blast, got to speeds of 120+ on the straits and will more than likely get signed off to go without and instructor next time.
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  2. #22
    Kickin it Old School somethingclever's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CST 03 View Post
    I was there today and at the end of my second session i had some serious fade. I think my next step is slotted rotors and some synthetic brake fluid.
    I have Hawk performance plus pads on it now and they work well but man do you get some brake dust.

    BTW had a blast, got to speeds of 120+ on the straits and will more than likely get signed off to go without and instructor next time.


    Sweet Kevin!! Where's the pics?

    I have the Hawk street performance on mine and they definately make a bunch of dust...but that's better than torching those expensive rotors.

    Definately consider a good brake fluid and more importantly would be some brake ducts. My car has the 2000R stuff and Brembo's and I had zero fade. (with the Ford "hi performance" brake fluid.)
    I think you'd see some real nice gains with the ducts.
    -JOHN

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  3. #23
    Formerly 2011 GB/CS & CST 03 03 OW SVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by somethingclever View Post
    Sweet Kevin!! Where's the pics?

    I have the Hawk street performance on mine and they definately make a bunch of dust...but that's better than torching those expensive rotors.

    Definately consider a good brake fluid and more importantly would be some brake ducts. My car has the 2000R stuff and Brembo's and I had zero fade. (with the Ford "hi performance" brake fluid.)
    I think you'd see some real nice gains with the ducts.
    I'll try the ford hi-perf. fluid and look into getting the ducts
    17 Ram 1500 Big Horn Hemi
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  4. #24
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    Putting brake ducts on PBR calipers is a recipe for disaster. I have personally witnessed total brake failures on track due to PBR calipers using brake cooling ducts. OE Brembo rotors are cheap, less than $250 for all four. I have ran them on my race car for YEARS without a single incident. The 00R Brembo front brake set-up is by far the best bang for the buck. That is assuming you are hooked on the "track" pipe.
    Good Luck
    Brian
    1996 Mustang GR 40
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  5. #25
    Formerly 2011 GB/CS & CST 03 03 OW SVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gastrader1 View Post
    Putting brake ducts on PBR calipers is a recipe for disaster. I have personally witnessed total brake failures on track due to PBR calipers using brake cooling ducts. OE Brembo rotors are cheap, less than $250 for all four. I have ran them on my race car for YEARS without a single incident. The 00R Brembo front brake set-up is by far the best bang for the buck. That is assuming you are hooked on the "track" pipe.
    Good Luck
    Brian
    Thanks Brian....Ooohhh I'm hooked butt the wallet and wife say.... "Don't get hooked"
    Last edited by 03 OW SVT; 06-18-2009 at 04:11 PM.
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  6. #26
    Kickin it Old School somethingclever's Avatar
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    Wow I've never heard that before...good info for sure.

    Luckily I have the 00R setup on mine so I'm in the clear apparantley.
    -JOHN

    Carburetors and SAE wrenches.................


    Buy Made in the USA - It Matters.

  7. #27
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    The use of vented or slotted rotors is also not a good idea. That is unless you are going for the bling factor. I have used the stock OE Brembo's for 3 hour enduro's without any issues and used them many other weekends prior to replacing. I had the 00R Brembo's on my 03 Cobra and on track used Hawk HT 10 in the front and Hawk Blue in the rear. On my current race car I have the same Brembo front calipers but I have since switched to Cobalt Friction pads. I always have a complete set of heat cycled new rotors and pads in the trailer too. I replace the front hubs every year whether they need it or not and always have a new set with longer studs with me. On track kills the hubs especially using racing tires.
    Good Luck
    Brian
    1996 Mustang GR 40
    SLA
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  8. #28
    never stock biminiLX's Avatar
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    Speaking of brakes, I just bought a bracket to use Cobra calipers and 13" rotors on my Contour. A Ford engineer designed them so I'm comfortable they'll work. I bought a set of '95 Cobra calipers and new Baer zinc/slotted/washed rotors already drilled for the car for the same price as Cobra blank Brembos.
    Anyway, 2 questions:
    1) I need to rebuild the calipers and powder coat them---any advice on rebuilding the calipers or sourcing the parts? I'm guessing factory Ford rebuild kit? Anyone done this?
    2) Pad recommendation for all year use appreciated. I never upgraded the pads on either of my previous Cobras.
    When you guys going back, I want to check out the track this summer for sure.
    Thanks, J
    '91 LX Bimini Blue
    427"/88mm on 16psi

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  9. #29
    Senior Member Killercanary's Avatar
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    Brian, why would a brake cooling duct cause a brake failure with the PBR's? I was going to fab up such a setup but then re-thought it as I doubt it'll make any difference with the low speeds seen at the autocross course, but I'd still like to know more about this if and when I make it out onto a road course.

    J- I can't help you but I'm sure Brian and others can.
    -Paul

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  10. #30
    Formerly 2011 GB/CS & CST 03 03 OW SVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by biminiLX View Post
    Speaking of brakes, I just bought a bracket to use Cobra calipers and 13" rotors on my Contour. A Ford engineer designed them so I'm comfortable they'll work. I bought a set of '95 Cobra calipers and new Baer zinc/slotted/washed rotors already drilled for the car for the same price as Cobra blank Brembos.
    Anyway, 2 questions:
    1) I need to rebuild the calipers and powder coat them---any advice on rebuilding the calipers or sourcing the parts? I'm guessing factory Ford rebuild kit? Anyone done this?
    2) Pad recommendation for all year use appreciated. I never upgraded the pads on either of my previous Cobras.
    When you guys going back, I want to check out the track this summer for sure.
    Thanks, J
    Hoping to go back soon and do a F.O.F.. There is one July 31st but not sure if i'll make that one.

    I was asked by two of the instructors if i'd be interested in being an instructor with some more training...I said hell ya.

    Everyone needs to do the roadcourse atleast once in there life. Its a frickin blast.
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  11. #31
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    Paul, The PBR calipers get very flexible went heated up on track. Putting a brake duct will cool the caliper in a flex or stretched position thus reducing your stopping ability. This same PBR caliper has been used for MANY years on older Corvettes. In fact you will find when buying replacement pads if they are to think and you cannot get the caliper over the pad/rotor, they gave you Corvette pads instead of Mustang. The Corvette runs a thinner rotor than a Mustang.

    I have powder coated and rebuilt the PBR calipers. I used a NAPA rebuild kit. If you use the PBR or Brembo calipers on track you WILL melt the dust boots on the pistons ALL the time. They are just a soft rubber. In fact they have been melted off my racecar for the past few years, no issues by not having them yet. If I change anything brake wise on the race car, I am putting the Grigg's front and rear system on the car. Much greater clamping power.

    The problem with drilled and slotted rotors is they ALL crack under stress. Any on track use will cause stress, thus you will have cracks. The zinc wash will be off the brake pad contact area before you get around the block. When changing pads/rotors make sure you proberly bed in the pads. Chose of pads depends on what you are going to be doing. If you are only going to use this car for track use, then I would suggest a different pad than something driven on the street. Are you willing to change brake pads/rotors at the track prior to each event?
    Brian
    1996 Mustang GR 40
    SLA
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  12. #32
    never stock biminiLX's Avatar
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    Thanks Brian.
    I will look at the NAPA kit, good to know it sounds easy to find.
    How difficult was the rebuild process?
    As far as the rotors go I've heard about that and planned on just having Brembo Cobra blanks drilled for the Countour bolt pattern but I lucked into these Baer rotors cheap.
    As far as pads go, I want a good daily, even winter use pad.
    I have no problem changing pads for summer/track day use but would like to avoid swapping rotors and would like to go to BR at least 1-2 times a summer. I'm assuming I will love it and want to go more :)
    The SVT Contour is supposed to be a fun track car. I have an upgraded rear swaybar, rear strut brace, subframe connectors now. I will be installing the Cobra brakes/SS lines next spring and have a set of H&R springs, now debating to keep the SVT struts or find some Bilsteins or Konis.
    Definitely looking forward to going up there, hopefully tagging along when you guys go next.
    Later, J
    '91 LX Bimini Blue
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    '99 Contour SVT
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  13. #33
    Member Mark Aubele's Avatar
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    Fwiw, back when I had my SVT contour I installed H+R springs and the factory struts lasted about a week.
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  14. #34
    never stock biminiLX's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Aubele View Post
    Fwiw, back when I had my SVT contour I installed H+R springs and the factory struts lasted about a week.
    Thanks Mark, I've read about that. Alot of guys will pay good money for low mile SVT stuff so I think I'll buy some good struts and sell the stockers. I might need some instruction, I'm a newbie if its not it a straight 1/4 mile
    -J
    '91 LX Bimini Blue
    427"/88mm on 16psi

    '99 Contour SVT
    Clean DD

  15. #35
    Formerly 2011 GB/CS & CST 03 03 OW SVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by biminiLX View Post
    Thanks Mark, I've read about that. Alot of guys will pay good money for low mile SVT stuff so I think I'll buy some good struts and sell the stockers. I might need some instruction, I'm a newbie if its not it a straight 1/4 mile
    -J
    I like the 1/4's and the twistees/road-racing...Its all a blast
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  16. #36
    never stock biminiLX's Avatar
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    Yeah, that's what I'm worried about, coming home hooked....wife will be pissed :)
    -J
    '91 LX Bimini Blue
    427"/88mm on 16psi

    '99 Contour SVT
    Clean DD

  17. #37
    Formerly 2011 GB/CS & CST 03 03 OW SVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by biminiLX View Post
    Yeah, that's what I'm worried about, coming home hooked....wife will be pissed :)
    -J
    Oooohhh trust me you'll get hooked
    17 Ram 1500 Big Horn Hemi
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    03 Oxford white Cobra (Gone but not forgotten)

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