130 Amp Alternator

**Tony71502** · 06-24-2009, 02:17 PM

Hopefully this is in the right section.

I picked up a brand new 130 amp alternator from late model restoration. Does anyone know where I can find some high quality 4 gauge wire? prob a stero shop? Also I'm looking for the single wire plug that was stock on 94+ stangs that plugs into the back of the 130 amp alternators.

Are there any complete kits out there?

I've got a good write up on the conversion, I just need the proper,quality parts to do the job.

Thanks!

**White5.0** · 06-24-2009, 02:28 PM

i just did a 3g alt swap on my stang about a month or 2 ago... i looked everywhere for the right gauge wire and no one sells one that big that is long enough... i got mine from PA performance. very high quality and also comes with the 200 amp fuse with fuse holder

http://www.paperformance.com/scripts...p?idproduct=86

**wick** · 06-24-2009, 02:47 PM

PM me whenever you get a chance. I have all that stuff laying around.

**daviac5000** · 06-24-2009, 03:30 PM

Here's where I got all my stuff from (copied from Stangnet):

See WWW.partsexpress.com for the fuse & fuse holder.
Fuse @ $3.90 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=071-952

Fuseholder @ $5.80 each (need one) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=263-630

4 gauge black wire @ $1.95 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-196

4 gauge red wire @ $1.95 a foot (use string to lay out routing & determine length) http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=100-194

4 gauge ring crimp terminals (package of 5) $3.25. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=095-584

3/4 “ Black heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.56
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=082-058

3/4 “ Red heat shrink tubing, 4ft length, $3.56
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=082-064

3G tech data:

See http://www.geocities.com/smithmonte/...or_Upgrade.htm - all the tech data you could ever want to know
OR
http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/alternator.html - excellent pictures of installation

**Tony71502** · 06-25-2009, 09:16 AM

on PA performance when they describe their 4 ga. wire they say something about the 4 ga. wire not being intended to replace the stock wire but work with it? Am I misinterpreting that? It's at the bottom of the page.

**daviac5000** · 06-25-2009, 09:59 AM

Some write-ups say to still use the stock wires while others don't. Since I'm not electrical guru, I did my share of reading before I attempted my installation. I decided not use the stock wires (black/orange) due to the fact that the 4 gauge wire (and fuse) are sufficient to handle the additional power as opposed to the stock 10 gauge wires. Remember to also upgrade your ground wire when doing the swap.

Dave

**Tony71502** · 06-25-2009, 10:56 AM

So the cable between the alternator and battery is intended to have a fuse in it. The cable between the alternator and starter does not? Both need upgraded to 4ga. and run side by side the original? Or Just the alternator to starter is supposed to be parallel with the 10ga.?

I'm thinking of getting the 4 ga wire from pa performance with the 200 amp fuse... or does this high of a fuse bring the risk of potential fire? I'm still learning electricals. Then also get another 4 ga. wire to run from the alternator to starter... or does the one from PA performance come in 2 segments.

Aside from that just plug in the D-shape plug to the alternator and splice the connection on the white/black wire and plug that to the alternator. Doesn't seem to hard. And heat shrink everything of course.

**Tony71502** · 06-25-2009, 11:22 AM

Is this the white/black wire connection or whatever that I need?

http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...artKeyField=55

PA Performance has the harnesses, too.

**White5.0** · 06-25-2009, 11:39 AM

this is what i followed:

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...tor/index.html

the only thing i got from PA performance is the 4 gauge wire with the fuse. for the 3g upgrade, you keep one of the two plugs for the alternator the same (voltage regulator plug i believe), the other one you need to cut.

on the one that you cut, the two black and orange wires need ring terminals on them and need bolted to the stud on the back of the 3g alt....same goes for the 4 gauge wire that you need.

the third wire, which i believe is yellow, needs to have a connector soldered to it that almost any car with a 3g alt has. you should check out a junk yard since most cars will have it

**daviac5000** · 06-25-2009, 12:06 PM

The 4 gauge power wire from the alternator to the solenoid/battery will need a 150 amp fuse and holder. If you decide to use the black/orange wires follow what White5.0 said and add ring terminals to them. If you don't grab one at the junkyard or purchase the ford racing harness, you can use a spade connector as a temporary fix for the stator wire. The only other 4 gauge wire you should need will be the chassis ground. The ground is optional but a good idea.

Dave

**Tony71502** · 06-25-2009, 12:30 PM

Alright that's helpful. Thanks.

So how much of a change to the procedure would including a battery relocation in this be? Just a longer cable from alternator to battery and a 4 ga. ground from battery to body/frame? Arent the cables they give in battery reloc kits 2 ga. Would there be a 2 ga. wire running to the alternator, then?

I'm also thinking of adding a battery cut-off switch.

**Tony71502** · 06-25-2009, 03:28 PM

Ok well, I picked up a PA performance alternator in the first place, that is who late model flips, and it apparantly has all connections required in the kit. I also bought the 4 ga. wire with in line fuse from PA performance which goes from the alternator to the starter solenoid, correct? Now all that's left is a cable running from the starter solenoid to the battery. This cable will be a 1 ga. welding cable in a Taylor battery relocation kit. I'm also picking up a battery cut-off switch.

Final questions for anyone still paying attention. Does the battery cut off switch go in the positive or negative battery cable? Can I run a battery relocation cable through the passenger cabin, or should I make an effort to run it underneath the car along the chassis. Are there any other things I need to alter/buy to ensure a quality, working charging system. If I get an Optima battery which has no battery acid, do I still have to run a breather tube in my battery box. Where did you ground your relocated battery cable?

Thanks a ton with this current project. I want to get it out of the way as soon as possible so I can finish up the car's electronics...(fan, maybe water pump, maybe new front speakers).