ok so i guess this post might get a bit on the long side..... i have a 95 mustang gt with the 5.0 motor in it and was looking to possibly do some upgrades in the future.... on lets say a 1600 dollar budget..... what would you guys/girls recommend to due to get the most for my money? the car has undrives on it and 8.5 msd wires and cap... so where do i go from here? i am new to this scene and would be greatful for any and all advice!! oh and hitting the spray is out for now!
you need 2JZ's
2018 Jeep Grand Cherokee
1931 Ford Model A - Project
1991 BMW 325iX
1978 Ford F150
1952 Ford F2 - Project
2001 Mustang GT - gone but never forgotten. RIP.
heads,cam,intake!
2008 Dodge 3500 DRW 6.7 cummins-tow rig
2013 Mustang Gt GHIG
1978 F150 Camper Special
2012 FLHX street glide 103ci 21" front wheel converstion
1999 Harley softail
1998 Buell Thunderbolt
1997 Buell Thunderbolt
2004 polaris 500ho- snow plower
Cub Cadet 582 Kohler V-twin Puller
Want what you can have, not what you cant.
I know you said in your other post you don't want to do aluminum heads because of something a mechanic friend told you. The truth is, aluminum heads are probably the single best mod on any 5.0. They aren't any more or less prone to blowing head gaskets than an iron head.
You can pick up a set anywhere from $600-$1000 depending on what you get. I'd recommend Trick flow's. Buy them as cheap as possible and take 'em to a machine shop to have them checked out and cleaned up. Or buy 'em new for around $1200. I wish I'd have bought a set from the beginning rather than all the little stuff I bought that ended up costing just as much and gave much less bang for the buck.
No other mod you will do will give a greater return on your money except for a supercharger or turbo.
But OK, lets assume aluminum heads are a no go.
These are in no particular order.
#1. Rear gears. I'd go 4:10's if it's an AOD, 3:55-3:73 if it's a 5 speed.
#2. Headers and an off-road X or H pipe. Keep the original catted midpipe for inspection time.
#3. A quality spring/shock/strut package. There are many to choose from. I'd bypass the cheaper ones, (KYB) and go with Billstien-Koni- or even Tokico. A quality package will transform your driving experience.
#4. Upper/Lower rear control arms. Again, stay away from the cheapies.
You probably noticed there are no engine upgrades on the list. If the heads are stock, anything else you bolt onto the engine is still breathing through those same heads. If I were to buy an upper/lower intake, it's only a handful more bolts to get the heads off. I'd either do both or neither.
Oh, I almost forgot. A used supercharger kit can be had for about the price you're looking to spend.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Last edited by frankstang; 07-18-2009 at 09:17 AM.
gears, 3.73's or 4.10's
exhaust, good flowing headers with high flow cat h-pipe or catless h-pipe. Good cat back system.
Subframe connectors
short throw shifter
Originally Posted by John4cam
You really only need 3 of these 4 to totally transform your buggy. With a hardtop you can hold off on the subs for now. Plus you'll have money left over!
does the 95 come stock with headers? pros cons to spooling the rear end? was told about checking into a summit cam (made by crane) kit with advertised duration of no higher the 282 so i dont have to mess with the converters.... pros cons to aluminum heads,...... whats the most hp i can get out of this motor not using juice? sorry lots of questions and only more to come....
Well they look like headers, but they don't flow worth a crap. Mess with the converters because of a cam? Are you talking about passing emmisions? There is really only pros. with aluminum heads. Out of the 302 the basic top end build will get you close to the 300rwhp mark
oh where and how do i get this thing (tuned) i always thought tuning was getting a chip that would give me correct air fuel mixture and allow for changes....
no my friend said something about a stall converter due to the long pause in between when you add a bigger cam and how it can cause it to stall a car out if goin with to big of a cam... he mentioned something bout the torque converter too but i cant remember what it was about..
what do you guys think a stock gt can run in the quarter? mid 14s? i want to eventually run strip with the car but not every weekend... and im not sure bout taking it to where im gonna need a full roll cage...
oh should i not be running high test in ths thing yet? since i bought it i have been using it thinking it was meant for it.... EXCUSE ME FOR MY IGNORANCE everyone as i stated i am new and want to learn!!!!
Stock GT with an auto "should" be in the low 15's. Manual versions with advanced timing and the air horn removed can be whittled down into the low 14's.
2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :
BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18
oh and i was being joking around bout the ignorance thing not being sarcastic !!! lol
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