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Thread: Drag racing advice anyone?

  1. #1
    Senior Member White5.0's Avatar
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    Drag racing advice anyone?

    Im probably going to be going to PRP next wed for test n tune. never drag raced my car before but have a good understanding of it. just looking to get some advice on what you guys do in order to try and get the best times out of your cars?

    obviously the best thing is practice practice practice to see where the best launch rpm and shift points are for my car. but i would like to know what some good 'free mods' are for my car.... i have a fox body so any specific tips for these cars would be great

    i was thinking of doing the following:
    1. remove rear seats/hatchback carpet
    2. remove front sway bar
    3. running two spares up front for a set of poor man's skinnies (is this safe to do or would you advise against it?)
    2013 Mustang GT
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  2. #2
    l3@l)&#l_#$$ AdamantiumSilvr's Avatar
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    Any extra weight takin out is a plus, so takin seats out if u feel, spare tire/tire jack, carpet liner, as little gas as possible, etc.
    Droppin tire pressure in the rears helps.
    Checkin the oil, makin sure air filters clean.
    Lucus injector cleaner.
    Me, myself has never seen spare tires used as skinnies ran before that I can remember. Maybe a set of steel rims.
    I've used octane booster's before, but some don't recommend usin them.
    Think positive, stay cool and pray before each run, lol!
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  3. #3
    Spoon Killer HidalgoGT's Avatar
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    I dunno if they allow the poorman skinnies anymore. Would be a good idea to use those aluminum ones if they would let ya though. reaction time or so i did was react to the bottom yellow bulb dont wait for the green. If your running street tires do not do a big burn out do a small one and roll out of it. If it is a stick car and street tires naturaly you cant drop the hammer or you'll just spin. Like you said its all practise. Use some stop lights here and there to get the feel of where your car likes to perform best at.
    2001 Dodge 2500 The Big Bad "D"
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  4. #4
    Senior Member Shaggy's Avatar
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    Set the tps @ .98
    reduce weight as said.
    forget that injector crap, check fluids and KEEP the front sway bar.
    have fun . Impress your self not others.
    Last edited by Shaggy; 08-06-2009 at 04:13 AM.
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  5. #5
    my ride has 1400 hp! blaze00's Avatar
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    dont use spare tires they are only rated at 60 mph. not safe! i dont even think they will let you run em
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    Just air up your fronts to 40 psi instead of changing them. You can get air at prp.

    Try and make it so you have as little fuel as possible yet still be able to run the whole night.

    Ice down the upper intake between runs.

  7. #7
    Senior Member White5.0's Avatar
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    thanks guys...yeah i wasnt really sure about the spare tire thing just thought it would be a good idea since they are a lot lighter.

    shaggy - why do you think i should keep my front sway bar? i read that most people remove them simply for better weight transfer to the rear. not like my car is making mad power or anything, but i just think that every little bit helps.


    what tire pressure should i run in the rear for STREET tires? should i run it a little low like you would with slicks or drag radials?
    2013 Mustang GT
    1987 Mustang GT
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  8. #8
    Senior Member Jivepepper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blaze00 View Post
    dont use spare tires they are only rated at 60 mph. not safe! i dont even think they will let you run em
    Some people have used just the rims with different tires.
    665/540 New times coming
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  9. #9
    I'd say run at least 1/4 tank of gas, so that you don't uncover the pick up when you launch. A gallon of gas weighs about 6.25lbs, so you're not really talking a bunch of weight savings running a couple more gallons. Plus, it's weight in the rear, better distribution, better traction.

    Weight removal is free horsepower, so heavy things like seats and spare tires add up quick.

    Reaction time (RT) is separate from elapsed time (ET). You could sit at the tree for 10 seconds, and your ET won't start until you break the beam. However, you want to just barely turn on the stage bulb. That way, you're as shallow as possible, and get the quickest ET you can.

    If you ice the intake, put a towel under it to catch the melt. You don't want to put water on the track when you launch.

    What tire size do you run? When I ran regular BFG TA radials, I went 28-30psi, for 15 inch wheels. You don't want to drop it too low, or you will cup the tire over. Definitely do not do a John Force burnout... you'll glaze the tires over heating up the chemical compounds in the rubber, and traction will get worse.

    What transmission? If auto, what is the converter?
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  10. #10
    Senior Member White5.0's Avatar
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    ill just be running some 225-55-16 stock size street tires in the rear. im not even going to burn out since i have street tires. just gonna drive around the water box.

    i have a 5 speed and street tires, so im not gonna be launching it at 6k like a lot do with slicks cause i will just spin through 3 gears LOL. i might go out this weekend in a big parking lot or back road and practice launching a few times on the street tires to see how it is.
    2013 Mustang GT
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  11. #11
    Senior Member White5.0's Avatar
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    also, can you race at prp on sundays too? or just wed test and tune?

    i was on their site looking at the schedule but i dont know what some of the events mean. sounds like actual racing this sunday, not for the public?
    2013 Mustang GT
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  12. #12
    Spoon Killer HidalgoGT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by White5.0 View Post
    ill just be running some 225-55-16 stock size street tires in the rear. im not even going to burn out since i have street tires. just gonna drive around the water box.

    i have a 5 speed and street tires, so im not gonna be launching it at 6k like a lot do with slicks cause i will just spin through 3 gears LOL. i might go out this weekend in a big parking lot or back road and practice launching a few times on the street tires to see how it is.
    Do a small burnout just to the point where ya notice smoke and let it roll out on its own. It does help a lil but to much is just as bad as not enough. You "should" get more traction at the track so wherever you find a comfortable launching point on the street you might be able to launch a lil higher at the track. Front sway bar is a good idea just remember on your way home not to do any corner carving.
    2001 Dodge 2500 The Big Bad "D"
    4" exhaust,38"MTZ's,5.5 Fabtech Lift,Cold air intake,Silencer ring MIA,Smarty tuner,Edge Drag comp, 64/71/.80 s300 turbo 175hp injectors.
    321Hp/783Tq New power numbers this spring.
    1987 Dodge 1/2 ton gasser 4x4 "jr"
    Ricers: For those who don't have the balls or skills to drive American Muscle.
    Not cool cause I don't drive a mustang anymore.
    Got Smoke?
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGIvJflAxZU

  13. #13
    Senior Member 97LaserRed's Avatar
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    I'm with rhino on this on. Haven't ran my car since I charged it. I'm running nitto drags. What you guys think I should run at?


    Anybody know if we can race on sunday? I'd like to race sunday and Wednesday

  14. #14
    Senior Member White5.0's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HidalgoGT View Post
    Do a small burnout just to the point where ya notice smoke and let it roll out on its own. It does help a lil but to much is just as bad as not enough. You "should" get more traction at the track so wherever you find a comfortable launching point on the street you might be able to launch a lil higher at the track. Front sway bar is a good idea just remember on your way home not to do any corner carving.
    ah ok thanks for the advice. that another thing i wanted to ask about...is it safe driving to and from prp without the sway bar? or is this something i should remove when i get there? im guessing it takes somewhat of a while to take it out/ put it back in, so i was planning on doing it before i go.

    im not quite sure how important it is to have one
    2013 Mustang GT
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  15. #15
    Senior Member 97LaserRed's Avatar
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    I like the ice idea and I'm going to try and get rid of more weight but not sure on what I can toss. I've already got rid of a lot of stuff Lol

  16. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by White5.0 View Post
    also, can you race at prp on sundays too? or just wed test and tune?

    i was on their site looking at the schedule but i dont know what some of the events mean. sounds like actual racing this sunday, not for the public?
    Racing on Sundays is an occasional thing, depending on the schedule. This Sunday (Aug 9), there is racing, but it's a bracket race day, not test n tune. When you see "regular racing" on the schedule, that's what that means, bracket day in all the classes. And that means it's dial in, and eliminations. Consider running Trophy, which is $20, and you'll get at least 3 runs: 2 time trials, and first round of eliminations. Win the round and get another run next round. Trophy is 12.00 and slower, no slicks (drag radials and DOT legal tires are fine) or open headers. I'll be in the Street lanes both days this weekend, '69 Cutlass, KX05 car number, stop by.

    The bad thing about the water boxes at PRP is that there isn't enough room to drive around them, and what room there is, is where the water and rubber get swept too. So you definitely don't want to do that. Stick with a short burnout and you'll be fine.
    ChuckT
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  17. #17
    Any mods to the car, or mostly stock? Reason I ask is, helmet is required at 13.99 and quicker. It's also not a bad idea just to be safe even if you're not that quick.

    Just in case you've never been to the track, couple things to be aware of:

    Don't pull up to the tree. The prestage and stage beams are about 15-20 feet before the actual tree. The beams are a little past the starter shack. This pic shows where they are between the lanes, the white box to the right of my bumper. The first hole is the prestage beam. Interupt it, and the prestage light on the tree comes on. You can see you don't need to go too far to turn on the stage beam, which is the second light on the tree, and signals that you are ready to race. The third hole is the beam that starts your elapsed time.



    At the end of the track, lift once you cross the finish line. Don't stay full throttle through the shut down area, or else you'll be in the sand. There are 3 turn offs, make the one that is safest for you as you're slowing down.
    ChuckT
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  18. #18
    Senior Member White5.0's Avatar
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    oo ok i understand now about the "regular racing" that they list on the site now. thanks for the explanation

    as for mods my car isnt really crazy and i dont expect anything amazing out of it. 306, p heads, b cam, 1.6RR, full exhuast, 3.73s. no a/c, no smog, electic fan, 5 speed, bone stock suspension, street tires.

    my goal is to get a 13.99 or better, which i think my car is capable of. what do you guys think?

    even if i dont get a great ET, my trap speed will show what its capable of and a bad 60' will probably be the reason why i dont get what its capable of
    2013 Mustang GT
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  19. #19
    my ride has 1400 hp! blaze00's Avatar
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    lol the first time i staged i totaly screw it up. good advice cobraII
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  20. #20
    Senior Member Jivepepper's Avatar
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    I like staging with my rear tires lol.
    665/540 New times coming
    Old times with 516/453 11.10 @129 Best trap 130.69 -750' DA lol
    DYNO VID ---> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K9uOS732mdA

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