Can anyone recommend me a good brand in drive shafts for my gt500? Was debating on aluminum or getting a carbon one as well. Any advice is appreciated
Can anyone recommend me a good brand in drive shafts for my gt500? Was debating on aluminum or getting a carbon one as well. Any advice is appreciated
08 Shelby GT500 535RWHP/592TQ
06 Yamaha R1
01 Eclipse GT (sold)
98 Eclipse (for sale)
93 Bronco (winter beater)
I bought a DSS from Lethal Performance (Jared is a great guy). It was a little expensive but I have NO complaints! Make sure you get a loop too!
http://www.lethalperformance.com/07-...-900hp-p-17029
Thanks, found a few other parts I'm going to order off that site as well, dam there goes some extra cash again
08 Shelby GT500 535RWHP/592TQ
06 Yamaha R1
01 Eclipse GT (sold)
98 Eclipse (for sale)
93 Bronco (winter beater)
[quote=mr4teth;197338]Hey you're not buying an offroad X-pipe are you? If so, don't! I have a "like" new (20 miles) JBA for sale.
No I'm getting the cooling tanks, waiting on touching the headers and x-pipe till I decide on what sc to change too. Thanks though
08 Shelby GT500 535RWHP/592TQ
06 Yamaha R1
01 Eclipse GT (sold)
98 Eclipse (for sale)
93 Bronco (winter beater)
I'm not familiar with the retro chassis's, so what do you mean a one-piece? One piece loop?
The driveshaft's weak link is the joint... and I have yet to see a driveshaft with only one joint. Unless the driveshaft is like 1 foot long, putting the loop in the middle will not restrain it enough to prevent damage, which is why it's best to have one at both joints.
1991 Jewel Green Ford Mustang LX ~ 5.0L / 5-Speed
2011 Torch Red Ford Ranger ~ 2.3L / 5-Speed
1971 White Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu w/ Blue Stripes ~ 8.2L(502) / 4-Speed
* OOps I guess you guys were talking about the aluminum drive shaft.
Hmmm I wander why they didnt tell you to skip the drive shaft loop with a CF drive shaft. They are just about useless with a CF shaft because they more or less explode and turn into brooms. This is different than the steel or aluminum shafts snaping and bouncing around on the under side of your car.
Last edited by RUTHLESS; 08-10-2009 at 12:33 PM. Reason: Oops
Stock 03 Cobra Vroom Vroom!!
Proudly supports Street Lethal Performance and Rodeheaver's Hotrod Shop
Don't laugh...shaftmasters. Put one on our V6, no vibrations. I'd say this was the single best addition I put on the car. I'd steer clear of the Ranger shafts that are cut down to fit.
Live free or die
I think it would. They cant take sharp side impacts at all.
Here is what PST has to say about them. I used one on my Stealth TT back in the day.
Advantages of Carbon Fiber
- Lighter than steel or aluminum.
- Three times torsional strength of steel.
- Torsional spring rate allows better tire hook-up.
- Torsional spring rate allows smoother shifting.
- Less shock load to the differential.
- Eliminates or dampens high speed vibrations.
- Reduces transmission and differential breakage.
- Characteristics can be varied by changing the wind, angles or diameter. PST offers both steel and 7075 Billet Aluminum yokes.
- In drag racing applications - a better 60 Ft. time.
- ET's have been lowered in some cases by as much as .120.
- In stock car racing better control out of corners is the result of the torsional spring rate.
- In road racing smoother shifting and better durability of transmission and differential have been reported.
- Tested on Cobra's at 180 MPH on Dyno with no vibrations.
- A much greater safety factor - carbon fiber will return to a fiber and not create shrapnel under the car, as would aluminum or steel shafts.
Stock 03 Cobra Vroom Vroom!!
Proudly supports Street Lethal Performance and Rodeheaver's Hotrod Shop
IIRC there's a clearance issue with the 4" shafts on lowered S197s. I'm lower in the rear about an inch and have no issues, I don't recall how low the GT500 sits. Because of this, you won't find a rear loop for a 4" shaft.
The 3.5" shaft should have no clearance problems at all, unless you're seriously lowered.
I also don't recall how the exhaust runs on the GT500, there may be just no room at all to attach the loop brace or the loop itself between the pipes.
Live free or die
Leonard offers a 4" but most go with the 3.5" Dynotech or DSS because they are rated at 900+RWHP and are proven! DSS recently redesigned there setup which doesn't require a spacer like the Dynotceh, that's why I went DSS.
In regards to lowered GT500, I'm lowered with Eibach Sport Springs and have NO clearance or vibration (130+ MPH) issues with the DSS 3.5 and BMR Safety loop.
DSS 3.5 Alum one-piece D/S
http://www.lethalperformance.com/07-...-900hp-p-17029
BMR Front Safety Loop
http://www.lethalperformance.com/07-...t-loop-p-17054
Don't think me needs to worry about 900hp on mine Or even 1/3 of that! Someday...someday.
Live free or die
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