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Thread: WTB 94/95 cobra intake

  1. #1
    Senior Member scott5's Avatar
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    WTB 94/95 cobra intake

    Just what the title says. If anyone knows anyone that has one please let me know.

  2. #2
    Just spank it!!! Viper_ed's Avatar
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    I'd go with the 93 one personally. All of the 94-95 intakes were shrunk down to accomodate the strut tower brace.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Killercanary's Avatar
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    The '93 cobra upper will not work on the 94-95 as it has the EGR built in and causes a clearance issue. All other intakes do not intergrate the EGR and thus can be used with the "inlet elbow" when using it on a '94-95.
    -Paul

    1995 GT 'vert
    Best times on old 302 combo:
    12.03 at 112.5mph NA
    Best time with 9:1 compression NA dart block 331 setup:
    11.50 at 121mph
    Dyno'd: 415rwhp/410rwtq


    2004 Z16 commemorative edition Z06
    100% stock: 11.9 at 118mph




  4. #4
    Senior Member scott5's Avatar
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    i was going to do the swap, but decided not too and i got the TFS stage one cam so i need alil better intake than the stock 94/95 so i am looking for the cobra

  5. #5
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    check ebay...i just saw tons on there for a good price. under advertised list price.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Killercanary's Avatar
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    Are you set on the cobra intake? Its OK, but there are better ones out there. I always recommend the edelbrock performer for stock/mildly modified cars as it is a proven winner with stock heads, and as you can see by my sig. it does well when matched to a nice heads and cam combo. The upper can also be swapped out for a RPM/typhoon if you want to step it up even more with the same lower intake.
    -Paul

    1995 GT 'vert
    Best times on old 302 combo:
    12.03 at 112.5mph NA
    Best time with 9:1 compression NA dart block 331 setup:
    11.50 at 121mph
    Dyno'd: 415rwhp/410rwtq


    2004 Z16 commemorative edition Z06
    100% stock: 11.9 at 118mph




  7. #7
    Senior Member scott5's Avatar
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    yea because i dont want to spend more than i need to and dont want to bother with having to get the adapter and match stuff up. I really need this back on the road until i get another car.

  8. #8
    Senior Member coralcoupe1993's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killercanary View Post
    The '93 cobra upper will not work on the 94-95 as it has the EGR built in and causes a clearance issue. All other intakes do not intergrate the EGR and thus can be used with the "inlet elbow" when using it on a '94-95.
    Tom(thelast50ho) used my Cobra intake(93) on his 94-95????
    87 GT
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  9. #9
    Senior Member scott5's Avatar
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    i thought you had to get teh 93 cobra lower also..

  10. #10
    Senior Member coralcoupe1993's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott5 View Post
    i thought you had to get teh 93 cobra lower also..

    You do. Upper and lower. Lower will work with Cobra and GT40
    87 GT
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    60 Country Sedan
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    67 Contiental 4 door
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  11. #11
    Senior Member scott5's Avatar
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    i could use my lower for a 94/95 cobra upper?

  12. #12
    Not Bad for 367 SAE RWHP Pure Stock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott5 View Post
    i could use my lower for a 94/95 cobra upper?
    A *stock* lower from a 95 GT will not work with a Cobra/GT-40 staggered port upper intake.
    2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :

    BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18

  13. #13
    Senior Member scott5's Avatar
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    thats wat i thought

  14. #14
    Low and slow thelast50ho's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killercanary View Post
    The '93 cobra upper will not work on the 94-95 as it has the EGR built in and causes a clearance issue. All other intakes do not intergrate the EGR and thus can be used with the "inlet elbow" when using it on a '94-95.
    I would have to disagree paul im runnin a 93 cobra intake with a trickflow adaptor and it works fine. I just had to make a block off plate for the egr on it.
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  15. #15
    Senior Member coralcoupe1993's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott5 View Post
    i could use my lower for a 94/95 cobra upper?

    No.
    87 GT
    93 Notch
    60 Country Sedan
    Fairlanes/Galaxies 59-68
    67 Contiental 4 door
    06 Powerstroke

  16. #16
    Senior Member Killercanary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thelast50ho View Post
    I would have to disagree paul im runnin a 93 cobra intake with a trickflow adaptor and it works fine. I just had to make a block off plate for the egr on it.
    Interesting. I've seen others try and fail to use the 93 because with the elbow the TB was hitting the strut tower. Thanks for clearing that up for me.


    Also, with a '94-'95 you can use ANY GT40 style lower intake. The 93-older had a runner tapped for the ACT sensor. On the 94-95 cars this sensor is located right behind the MAF and therefore all you need to do to run a 93-older lower is plug the hole in the runner.
    -Paul

    1995 GT 'vert
    Best times on old 302 combo:
    12.03 at 112.5mph NA
    Best time with 9:1 compression NA dart block 331 setup:
    11.50 at 121mph
    Dyno'd: 415rwhp/410rwtq


    2004 Z16 commemorative edition Z06
    100% stock: 11.9 at 118mph




  17. #17
    Big Daddy gmkillr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killercanary View Post
    Interesting. I've seen others try and fail to use the 93 because with the elbow the TB was hitting the strut tower. Thanks for clearing that up for me.


    Also, with a '94-'95 you can use ANY GT40 style lower intake. The 93-older had a runner tapped for the ACT sensor. On the 94-95 cars this sensor is located right behind the MAF and therefore all you need to do to run a 93-older lower is plug the hole in the runner.


    Or just go ahead and move your IAT sensor over to the #5 runner by using a lightning IAT sensor & wiring harness to get a more sensative & true tune such as ive just done. This is what Don LaSota advised me to do on my blown application to get a better reading on the incoming air temps. Time will tell on how good this works, I may loose a few ponies but my tune will be spot on!!
    Corvette Z06

    Growing up.............Not everyone does it!


  18. #18
    Senior Member Killercanary's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmkillr View Post
    Or just go ahead and move your IAT sensor over to the #5 runner by using a lightning IAT sensor & wiring harness to get a more sensative & true tune such as ive just done. This is what Don LaSota advised me to do on my blown application to get a better reading on the incoming air temps. Time will tell on how good this works, I may loose a few ponies but my tune will be spot on!!
    On a blown application, you are absolutely right Rob since the incoming air charge is hotter than ambient and the plumbing between the blower head unit and the TB doesn't allow room for the air charge temp sensor. Leaving it in the stock location doesn't allow the EEC to see that this incoming air is any higher than than ambient since it measures it before it gets pressurized and heats up. By moving it to the lower intake the EEC will now see the true temperature of the incoming air and can adjust the timing more accordingly, its allows it to act as a safety devise. I've seen Don recommend the lightening sensor before, I'm not sure what the benefit of it is over a stock one unless it gives a truer reading with higher temperatures since it too was designed for a forced induction application. On an NA car, I would NOT move it to the lower in a 94-95 car because in doing so the EEC will not add as much timing as it normally would if it sees that the air charge is hotter than it really is at the location that it thinks it is measuring from. These cars already pull a ton of timing when they are hot, this situation would be made worse if its reading air temps inside of a heat soaked runner instead of the tube between the MAF and TB as it was designed for.


    Way back in the mid-late '90's, people used to move the sensor on the foxes out to where ours is, or they would take the sensor out between runs and stick it in ice to chill it way down. The thinking was that during a 1/4 pass the sensor would send tell the EEC that the air was really colder than it was thereby tricking it into thinking the air was denser and it'd add more fuel and timing. I remember a magazine doing a test of this on a NA fox car to see if it added any power and it did not. However, I fell pretty confident that in a 94-95 car that it WILL cost power, but it'll definitely make for a safer tune on a supercharged car.
    -Paul

    1995 GT 'vert
    Best times on old 302 combo:
    12.03 at 112.5mph NA
    Best time with 9:1 compression NA dart block 331 setup:
    11.50 at 121mph
    Dyno'd: 415rwhp/410rwtq


    2004 Z16 commemorative edition Z06
    100% stock: 11.9 at 118mph




  19. #19
    Big Daddy gmkillr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killercanary View Post
    On a blown application, you are absolutely right Rob since the incoming air charge is hotter than ambient and the plumbing between the blower head unit and the TB doesn't allow room for the air charge temp sensor. Leaving it in the stock location doesn't allow the EEC to see that this incoming air is any higher than than ambient since it measures it before it gets pressurized and heats up. By moving it to the lower intake the EEC will now see the true temperature of the incoming air and can adjust the timing more accordingly, its allows it to act as a safety devise. I've seen Don recommend the lightening sensor before, I'm not sure what the benefit of it is over a stock one unless it gives a truer reading with higher temperatures since it too was designed for a forced induction application. On an NA car, I would NOT move it to the lower in a 94-95 car because in doing so the EEC will not add as much timing as it normally would if it sees that the air charge is hotter than it really is at the location that it thinks it is measuring from. These cars already pull a ton of timing when they are hot, this situation would be made worse if its reading air temps inside of a heat soaked runner instead of the tube between the MAF and TB as it was designed for.


    Way back in the mid-late '90's, people used to move the sensor on the foxes out to where ours is, or they would take the sensor out between runs and stick it in ice to chill it way down. The thinking was that during a 1/4 pass the sensor would send tell the EEC that the air was really colder than it was thereby tricking it into thinking the air was denser and it'd add more fuel and timing. I remember a magazine doing a test of this on a NA fox car to see if it added any power and it did not. However, I fell pretty confident that in a 94-95 car that it WILL cost power, but it'll definitely make for a safer tune on a supercharged car.


    I absolutely agree w/ you there, id only do this on a blown application. And yes, the lightning sensor is meant to read higher intake temps & is meant specifically for blown applications, plus its also made from brass unlike the plastic ones they use on the 94-95's. You can buy bothe the sensor & harness plug from the Ford garage, if anybody needs the part #'s on either of them let me know and i'll post them.
    Corvette Z06

    Growing up.............Not everyone does it!


  20. #20
    Senior Member coralcoupe1993's Avatar
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    Great info guys!
    87 GT
    93 Notch
    60 Country Sedan
    Fairlanes/Galaxies 59-68
    67 Contiental 4 door
    06 Powerstroke

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