Best rear tires for my Cobra?

[GOT SVT]

The only MT's I had were the ET Streets you bought from me and I never ran them on the street.

you must be getting old. your 1st set of drag radials were mt et street radials

[MBH]

just came across this on TireRack and thought this might help you Ryan!

[RUTHLESS]

Bo,
You my friend are the interwebz ninja!


My car did okay at the last local car show with out those tires. I had two girls rubbing my drivers seat.

[MBH]

lmao brian tipped me off to his review getting posted, still can't believe they reviewed that as "OK" to post

[2001GTTT]

lmao @ hannah, Montana.

[97LaserRed]

Lmao at both! I was just trying to see if they would except that review! I didn't think they would. Ill have to make a good one Lol. More original.

[RUTHLESS]

Found this info today on another mustang car board.


"Of course trying to compare the way a tire will act on the street compared to the strip is a guessing game at best but I can compare the way this tire stacks up on the street as compared to a 315 Nitto DR on the street. In nut nutshell: NO comparison. Anyone that owns one of these brutal torque monsters (be it from a Whipple, KB, pullied/ported Eaton, nitrous, whatever) knows they are some tire shredding machines. With the Nittos out back on my KB 2.2 car, obviously first gear was 100% useless, just pedal it long enough to slam it into 2nd but even then it was instantly banging the WOT Box global rev limiter, which I have set to 6800. So 1st and 2nd gear was just a massive spin fest, not to mention entirely worhtless. Once in 3rd, generally it was fine at that point. Now fast forward to last night. I was holding the RPM at around 3K and riding the cluth out and yes, the car can still over power even these tires at 21 lbs of air BUT it isn't completely out of control. I can pedal it enough to keep it off the rev limiter and then use the WOT Box for no-lift shifting into 2nd. It straight puts a little rubber down but that's it....it's moving out in 2nd. No more instant rev limiter and 100 feet of black marks with smoke rolling off the tires. Those days are GONE. Between these tires and the custom FLSFC, I 'believe' this combo will do the trick at the track as far as keeping the rear-end-parts-killing wheel hop at bay. IMO, the subframe connectors made a substantial difference too in the way the car launches, even with the Nittos. It never wheel hopped on the street a single time even with the Nittos after we put the connectors on, but like I said, still never got any traction either. 335 hoosier's bring their A-game to the street...that's for damn sure. To be honest, I really wasn't expecting that much of a diff, but there is, no doubt about it. Night and day. If you are trying to steer clear of slicks for whatever reason, and want to keep a DR on your car, welllll like Soap and a few others said, this tire is probably as good as it gets."

[somethingclever]

The hoosiers are fine for dry stuff, but DO NOT get caught in the rain with them. (that could really be said for about any DR, but the hoosiers are slicks with two grooves down the middle....ie....no tread at all)

My 60' improved .1 sec between Nitto DR's and Hoosier DR's.

[biminiLX]

Have you seen a 335 Hoosier DR in person?
If you would, I doubt you consider it for much street driving.
What are these "cheater slicks" you have? ET Street bias ply tires?
If you have those, then keep those for the track and focus more on more streetable tires that can have a chance to your power level.
If I had a Cobra still I'd be using the Toyo 315/35/18 Proxes TQ DR.
315/35/17 is a short, too little sidewal tire for big power IMO, but if your limited to that size I still say the MT ET Street radial.
-J