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Thread: Car Eats alternators!!! HELP

  1. #21
    Camal Clutch
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    Quote Originally Posted by RUTHLESS View Post
    Not to get off topic but tell you buddy to install a high output alt and a second battery in the trunk with a charge relay setup. The CAP is just going to brandaid the lights dimming because it buffers the spikes but the system will keep cooking factory alts because the caps adds a load to the total draw of the system. I was running 3 deep cycles with a 230amp alt connected with 0gauge wire. My lights didnt blink but I could cook food on the alt when I was screwing around at shows. Dont even ask how much power I was pushing because it was down right stupid.

    Just trying to save that guy some cash and trouble in the long run.
    You beat me to it!

    The biggest problem with installing a system is, most people run big ass power wires but never upgrade anything else. You can't expect a system to work properly if you have a 4 ga or 0 ga power wire but an 8 ga ground... I usually suggest that all grounds must be upgraded (batt to block, block to chassis, chassis to body) and the alt to batt +.

  2. #22
    Senior Member ttk53's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zakerid View Post
    I like this procedure but usually use a test light (easier to see when working alone.
    When testing for shorts my quick and easy way is to do the following.
    -Pull the + cable
    -Connect testlight between cable and battery (if the light is lit = you have a short)
    - disconnect 1 circuit (start with fuses) at a time, if the light goes out you have found the circuit in question. If light stays lit, reconnect circuit (fuse, relay, ect) and continue disconnecting circuits.

    Last time I had to do this, I went through the entire fuse box without success. The culprit was a fan relay in the engine bay.

    Good luck.

    ok i did this and it is the #7 seven fuse for my dome light wtf?

  3. #23
    Camal Clutch
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    well... was your dome light on?

  4. #24
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by ttk53 View Post
    ok i did this and it is the #7 seven fuse for my dome light wtf?
    Door switch maybe bad..

  5. #25
    Senior Member ttk53's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddmi-twin90gt View Post
    Door switch maybe bad..
    only does it when door is open light stays on with key on. This isnt what is wrong my battery holds a charge fine.

  6. #26
    Senior Member RUTHLESS's Avatar
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    Power seats, cig lighter, power mirrors I think they are all on that fuse but I would need to look.

    Pull your shifter cover and see if anyone spliced gauges into your wiring at one time and left I wire bouncing around. Everyone likes to play with those wires.

    The funny part is that I would think the fuse would have blown if it was a heavy draw.
    Stock 03 Cobra Vroom Vroom!!

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  7. #27
    Senior Member ttk53's Avatar
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    check this in my dd does the same damn thing I think it may have been my BAP wire going to rerun it with a fuse this time! waiting for another alt.

    but have a 4# lower and long tubes to put on! Can this littel Eaton make 560whp? We will find out.

  8. #28
    Senior Member 32valve's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RUTHLESS View Post
    Not to get off topic but tell you buddy to install a high output alt and a second battery in the trunk with a charge relay setup. The CAP is just going to brandaid the lights dimming because it buffers the spikes but the system will keep cooking factory alts because the caps adds a load to the total draw of the system. I was running 3 deep cycles with a 230amp alt connected with 0gauge wire. My lights didnt blink but I could cook food on the alt when I was screwing around at shows. Dont even ask how much power I was pushing because it was down right stupid.

    Just trying to save that guy some cash and trouble in the long run.
    Thanks I'll pass on the info..............
    66 Fairlane GTA 390
    2011 f150
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  9. #29
    Senior Member ttk53's Avatar
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    Couldn't get lower pulley off and still have to run a new BAP wire but will update if i find out whats wrong!

  10. #30
    Senior Member ttk53's Avatar
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    New Battery
    New BAP Wire
    4# Lower
    3.2" Alt Pulley
    New Alternator


    Alternator is already whining and Im not going to drive it and blow it up. Open to any ideas.

  11. #31
    Senior Member ttk53's Avatar
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    my newest alternator

    1: Start the car, charges fine, for a little then once warm will drop voltage to like 13.5 try to drive it and the batt light goes on and off.

    now


    there is a plug right by the battery under the fuse box that the LG/R wire goes into. If I unplug this the voltage instanly jumps to 14.4 and I can drive the car and everything is perfect.

    Well other than that plug prevents the batt light from coiming on if it does stop charging and make the oil pressure gauge stop working.


    so I know that the green wire is from the ignition and allows the alternator to turn on and off. but what could be wrong that it is cause the alt. to fail.


    thanks and sorry for my ramble


    Tony

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