what clutches are you guys running?

**blaze00** · 09-10-2009, 02:54 PM

ill be swapping out my clutch in a few months and was wondering what every one is running. i was thinking of a 6 puk. would like it to hold 450 ft\lbs. i dont think i will push anymore than that.

what cha think?

**biminiLX** · 09-10-2009, 06:18 PM

Spec 3+

**97LaserRed** · 09-10-2009, 06:23 PM

6 puck will be very grabby. I heard the specs like to chatter. I drove a few stangs with spec and hated them all. I'm running a ram hdx 10.5 5.0 clutch. holds 500 hp I think? and very smooth clutch. I would go for a ram. Not a fan of spec

**wick** · 09-10-2009, 06:38 PM

Originally Posted by 97LaserRed

6 puck will be very grabby. I heard the specs like to chatter. I drove a few stangs with spec and hated them all. I'm running a ram hdx 10.5 5.0 clutch. holds 500 hp I think? and very smooth clutch. I would go for a ram. Not a fan of spec

For sure!!!

**SonofaBish** · 09-10-2009, 08:00 PM

I agree with J .... I ran a spec 3+ in my TT T/A and it was great... other than being somewhat stiff (even with a hydraulic clutch) it was extremely streetable and it NEVER, i repeat NEVER, chattered... only thing is, its good up to something like 850-900 ft.lbs, so it might be a bit much for you....

**Martin0660** · 09-10-2009, 08:49 PM

Agree on the 3+, but take note of the (+) part. The plus series are full faces discs, have higher torque ratings than the others, and are very drivable for the torque ratings.

Spec clutches REALLY like to be babied on the break in ;) Drive them soft for 500 miles then let all hell loose. It's the only 9 1/4" clutch that will hold behind my junk.

**97LaserRed** · 09-10-2009, 09:05 PM

If you go with spec I agree with bob. Spec really needs a easy break-in. Otherwise they chatter. Atleast my friends cars have. I still vote ram or centerforce.

**92306gt** · 09-10-2009, 09:09 PM

Ram Ftw!!!

**crazylou** · 09-10-2009, 09:45 PM

SPEC 2+ NO NEED FOR 3 0R 3+, 2+ will hold 620ftq

**no1sirbutler** · 09-10-2009, 10:11 PM

centerforce suck balls if you make any torque. they are not designed for cars that make torque low in the rpms. stick w/ a spec and youll be more than happy

**biminiLX** · 09-10-2009, 10:46 PM

Originally Posted by Martin0660

Agree on the 3+, but take note of the (+) part. The plus series are full faces discs, have higher torque ratings than the others, and are very drivable for the torque ratings.

Spec clutches REALLY like to be babied on the break in ;) Drive them soft for 500 miles then let all hell loose. It's the only 9 1/4" clutch that will hold behind my junk.

The first revolutions my clutch had was on the chassis dyno

But I agree with Bob, best to do a nice break-in if you can.
Despite the break-in I ended up using (chassis dyno then drive up trailer, drive off trailer, make a pass

) I still don't have chatter.
I really like the driveability for its torque rating and would recommend it highly. Unfortunately I am asking it to do too much and need a twin-disk or a converter.
Good luck, I still vote 2+ or 3+. I don't recall the price difference but for how driveable the 3+ is to me and its big TQ rating, I'd just start there.
-J

**Martin0660** · 09-10-2009, 10:50 PM

Originally Posted by biminiLX

The first revolutions my clutch had was on the chassis dyno

And how is that working out for you ??

Originally Posted by biminiLX

Unfortunately I am asking it to do too much and need a twin-disk or a converter.

Converter

**biminiLX** · 09-10-2009, 10:56 PM

Originally Posted by Martin0660

And how is that working out for you ??

Converter

Do you think a full break-in would have mattered? Just asking because one of my good and knowledgable friends said maybe it would have done better with a full break-in. Not sure, but I really think it was more of when I got the chassis working it found the weak link. Example, first pass at Columbus spun in first and went down track fine. The next 2 passes hooked up and then blew through the clutch. Oh well, maybe I'm done with the stick :(
-J

**Martin0660** · 09-10-2009, 11:04 PM

Originally Posted by biminiLX

Do you think a full break-in would have mattered?

With your Torque?? Hell no !!!! You might have got a little more time on it but high gear and boost eats clutches. When a clutch is going away for me the first sign is slip at the top of 3rd and 4th.

I would hate to see you go auto because that car kicks ass as a stick but like we talked about, the economics favor an auto for sure.

**blaze00** · 09-11-2009, 01:53 AM

thanks for all the replies. ill check out the specs. i hate break in time wouldnt be so bad on a dd but it took me a couple of months to break in clutches on my last toy.
clutch started to slip in 3rd last time i had it out so i figured i should start checking whats out there.

**Silverstang15** · 09-11-2009, 02:01 AM

stock!

**blaze00** · 09-11-2009, 02:12 AM

lol stock clutches dont like nitrous

**94Cobra** · 09-18-2009, 06:42 PM

No issues with my Centerforce Dual Friction, but I don't race much.

**AdamantiumSilvr** · 09-18-2009, 07:25 PM

How exactly u know when a clutch is slippin? The car just won't pull anymore or go er what?

**SonofaBish** · 09-18-2009, 07:32 PM

Originally Posted by AdamantiumSilvr

How exactly u know when a clutch is slippin? The car just won't pull anymore or go er what?

typically, it will be most noiceable in teh gear closest to 1:1 ... usually 4th gear... press the pedal to the floor, and the car will begin to accelerate, but the rpms will eventually start to rise, without the car pulling any harder... this is a result of the clutch slipping off of the flywheel ... rpms rise, but the power is not getting transferred...