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Thread: severe steering wheel shake at 60mph

  1. #21
    Senior Member 97LaserRed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 93FOX View Post
    easyest way to change tie rods is before u take old ones off mark were it is at
    thats what ive done never had to get mine religned ,tires still good
    That way no need for new alignment
    i promise its still out of align. it might be ok with steering wheel and tire wear but i promise its out.

  2. #22
    not enough to make the wheel shake
    man u know it all
    Mustang 00 v6- Mini Termi
    Mustang 94 v6-sold
    Mustang 93-sold
    Mustang 86 notch 2.3-sold

  3. #23
    Senior Member 383taman's Avatar
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    Alignment will not cause a shake anyway. More than likely a bad tire or wheel balance.
    89 Mustang (stock) DD
    82 Trans Am (not stock)
    98 Audi A4 (not so hurting)

  4. #24
    apache pilot
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    Quote Originally Posted by 97LaserRed View Post
    Any time u play with tie rods u need an alignment. Now its gonna screw your tires up. If you shake your wheel side to side and there is no play no reason to waste money on tierods and now alignment. Figure out the problem the right way. Don't just trow parts at it.
    there was play and i swapped out the pass side, then it still shook, so i checked the drivers side and it was worse than the pass side so i changed it too. and i def need an alignment now.
    1995 auto- *wrecked* sold
    1996 5 spd *sold*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505 *parted*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505

  5. #25
    Senior Member 97LaserRed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S+@ng View Post
    there was play and i swapped out the pass side, then it still shook, so i checked the drivers side and it was worse than the pass side so i changed it too. and i def need an alignment now.
    what did you change? inner and outer tierod??? or just outer?

  6. #26
    apache pilot
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    inners for now, might do the outers just for the hell of it and get greasable ones since the original ones are still on the car and i need an alignment anyway
    1995 auto- *wrecked* sold
    1996 5 spd *sold*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505 *parted*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505

  7. #27
    woulnt hurt then everything new is always better
    Mustang 00 v6- Mini Termi
    Mustang 94 v6-sold
    Mustang 93-sold
    Mustang 86 notch 2.3-sold

  8. #28
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    thread is a little old, but check your hubcentric rings if you still can't find the problem

  9. #29
    apache pilot
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    yea, i finally figured it out. the right tire is about 1.5 inches further back than the left side. either the shop somehow bent my k member or, the guy i bought it from torqued the body from launchin at 6k with his nasty 351.
    1995 auto- *wrecked* sold
    1996 5 spd *sold*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505 *parted*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505

  10. #30
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    Perhaps the control arms are not matching. Most offer a few styles in terms of centering the wheel. Look into it.

  11. #31
    Senior Member 97LaserRed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RSbeast View Post
    Perhaps the control arms are not matching. Most offer a few styles in terms of centering the wheel. Look into it.
    read the post above yours

  12. #32
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    I did. Hence my post. If it is obvious that they center differently and he ASSUMED it (the k member itself) was bent then why wouldn't my input be valid?

    I didn't read once where there was mention of that CAUSE. In which they do sell the control arms for a given k member in up to 3 offset choices.......

    blah blah blah

  13. #33
    apache pilot
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    well the shop installed a bumpsteer kit which does help. buuttttt, now it starts to shake at about 30mph later. heading in the right direction, but still frustrating as hell.
    1995 auto- *wrecked* sold
    1996 5 spd *sold*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505 *parted*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505

  14. #34
    apache pilot
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    i checked the speed with my gps (speedo not hooked up) and its actually about 63 mph is when it starts. almost the same as before. any other recent ideas of what may be the culprit of the vibration?
    1995 auto- *wrecked* sold
    1996 5 spd *sold*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505 *parted*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505

  15. #35
    Member DING's Avatar
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    The inch and a half of wheel stagger shouldn't be the problem. I help run an Outlaw 10.5 car and we run an inch of stagger like the pro stock cars do and it has no effect on the wheel shimmy at high speeds (190 mph plus). It sound like your rack itself may be bad. I didn't read in your thread that it was ever looked at, if you changed the tie rods and they are new it sound like the rack. Hope it helps
    Hank

  16. #36
    apache pilot
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    yea, ive just about given up on it and now the car sits in the garage because every time i look at it it makes me angry. i do have a spare rack, but the one on the car isnt leaking fluid and doesnt move when trying to shake the wheels while jacked up. could it be bad somehow without me knowing?
    1995 auto- *wrecked* sold
    1996 5 spd *sold*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505 *parted*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505

  17. #37
    Member DING's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by S+@ng View Post
    yea, ive just about given up on it and now the car sits in the garage because every time i look at it it makes me angry. i do have a spare rack, but the one on the car isnt leaking fluid and doesnt move when trying to shake the wheels while jacked up. could it be bad somehow without me knowing?
    Could it be bad is a good question... But its seems that it is the only thing that hasn't been changed. The k member, a arms, tie rod ends, you checked the wheels and tires balanced?? The only thing left is the rack. idk its a good question. We fought a shimmy on our outlaw car but that was due to the placement of the rack. It was too far forward and the tie rod ends were sloaped back. At high speeds and deceleration the front wheels would get into a violent shake. Your rack is in the stock location...

    Another thing to check is maybe one of your brake calipers is riding on the rotor... the front wheels would pull to the one side or the other though. It doesn't make sense why you have the shimmy at high speeds... I would like to know, its an interesting issue. My guess would still be the rack.

    You also said that you suspected that the k member was bent, was it in a crash than you swapped it to the car you have now? That may be the culprit.
    Last edited by DING; 12-11-2009 at 07:02 PM.
    Hank

  18. #38
    apache pilot
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    well guys, after replacing tierod ends, a bumpsteer kit, multiple alignments and balances, a lot of swearing, and rack bushings i replaced my struts and coilover kit that was on the car when i bought it with my almost brand new ones i had laying around and i can get up to 80 now and even then it only shakes about 1/4 of about how much it did before. i am no longer fighting for my life with the steering wheel. now i think its just a tire out of balance of something small like that. at least im headed in the right direction
    1995 auto- *wrecked* sold
    1996 5 spd *sold*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505 *parted*
    2001 5 spd MMR 850 stroker, K.B. 543/505

  19. #39
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    on my ford tempo that i had the tie rod end bushing went and it did that might wanna look at that.

  20. #40
    up and running
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    drive sfaft or maybe pinion angle??

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