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Thread: Long Wheel Stud Install

  1. #1
    Built, Cammed, CCW'd SVT NateSVT's Avatar
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    Long Wheel Stud Install

    On a 94-98 SRA, can you install 3" wheel studs without removing the axles?
    2004 SVT Cobra - sold
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    2006 Yamaha R1 - Raven


    10.89 @ 127.6 1.61 60' with a ported Eaton

  2. #2
    Senior Member Killercanary's Avatar
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    I tried cutting the back flange into the shape of a "D" instead of an "O" like many companies do for the front studs to clear the ABS exciter rings and I got the studs to start into the axles, but I was unable to beat or suck them in with lug nuts. I tried heating the axle and freezing the stud with no success. I ended up having to pull the axles and use a ~3" diameter piece of metal conduit connector to lift the axle off the ground and beat them in with a punch and a BFH. The front's were the worst though. I used Moroso studs as I've always had luck with them and they are less $ than the ARP's.
    -Paul

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  3. #3
    Modular Ford Performance Wolfpack Speed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NateSVT View Post
    On a 94-98 SRA, can you install 3" wheel studs without removing the axles?
    If you don't have the abs exciter rings you will be fine. Like Paul mentioned, some of the companies cut part of the stud flange away to help the longer studs clear the abs exciter rings. This has worked for me in the past as I have installed longer studs without removing the axles and abs exciter rings.
    Wolfpack Speed, Inc.
    4290 Campbells Run Rd
    Pittsburgh, PA 15205
    (412) 279-4902

  4. #4
    Modular Ford Performance Wolfpack Speed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Killercanary View Post
    I tried cutting the back flange into the shape of a "D" instead of an "O" like many companies do for the front studs to clear the ABS exciter rings and I got the studs to start into the axles, but I was unable to beat or suck them in with lug nuts. I tried heating the axle and freezing the stud with no success. I ended up having to pull the axles and use a ~3" diameter piece of metal conduit connector to lift the axle off the ground and beat them in with a punch and a BFH. The front's were the worst though. I used Moroso studs as I've always had luck with them and they are less $ than the ARP's.
    If you had that hard of a time installing them, you probably had the wrong size knurl. Many of the online application engines, such as summit racing, don't give accurate application information. The studs should suck in fairly easy with a nut and some washers, or press in easy if you are using a press. I have worked with both moroso and arp on many occasions, I don't like the moroso studs at all. I know the arp's are more expensive but they are much stronger and a better all around piece. I have seen the threads crack and and break on the moroso studs many times...
    Wolfpack Speed, Inc.
    4290 Campbells Run Rd
    Pittsburgh, PA 15205
    (412) 279-4902

  5. #5
    More RPM !!! Martin0660's Avatar
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    I hate the Moroso studs as well. Bent up a new axle flange installing a set with the knurl too large. The last sets i've done, i've just ordered the Moser studs with the axles. I still need to deal with my fronts and am likely just going to get a set that needs drilled rather than sort out the knurl size.
    Bob Myers ©

    84 Capri RS Turbo -Best 1/8th - 6.24@109, Best 1/4 - 9.82@136...Still only a 4 banger

  6. #6
    Built, Cammed, CCW'd SVT NateSVT's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info guys! The reason I asked is because I have all the parts for my rear end here except for the wheel studs. I was going to put it together today but I guess I'll just wait til tomorrow.

    I used to have Moroso studs on my IRS, they worked fine but they did rust bad and looked like shit. This time I am trying ARP. I got these ones,

    http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/100-7704/10002/-1
    2004 SVT Cobra - sold
    2000 Yamaha R1
    2006 Yamaha R1 - Raven


    10.89 @ 127.6 1.61 60' with a ported Eaton

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