My Teksid Project - Orange Nightmare

**Ares** · 02-28-2017, 05:12 PM

More goodies today. I like how the SFI sticker is showing March 2017.

**Ares** · 03-03-2017, 05:25 PM

More goodies today. Billet 1/2 and 3/4 shift forks. Bronze cup bushing for shifter.

**sutyak** · 03-03-2017, 06:51 PM

Billet forks are just beautiful! I received my offset dowels today. Thanks again for the part numbers!

**Ares** · 03-03-2017, 08:51 PM

They look well made. Wasn't much glue sticking out from around pads. Had cleaned what little there was up before pics.

Was hoping to get car out of trailer and get bell indexed. So I can figure out what dowels I need. Hoping none but I doubt that. Instead I have a compressor trailer for a fire department sitting in the shop where I would work on car. Wanted it back up and running Thursday but part was missing from upgrade kit. Expect part Monday. It's like working on my own crap. Nothing ever works out as planned.

May just tear into the transmission and get it out of the way instead..

**Ares** · 04-22-2017, 08:00 PM

Ok found some motivation again.

Got 3650 tore down and surprisingly it is in great shape. No metal of any kind in oil. Not bad I think for a 3650 I bought used back in Aug 2007 with 30k on a rebuild and I put a solid 8 years of abuse to it. Only issue and not unexpected was 10 spline input has a slight twist to it. Not bad considering what I have done to it in 8 years.

After getting case apart. Royal Purple FTW

**sutyak** · 04-23-2017, 10:16 AM

Awesome that the 10 spline has held up to 1.5 short times.

**wick** · 04-23-2017, 12:55 PM

Nice. Don't think there were too many more hits left in that one.

**Ares** · 04-23-2017, 09:09 PM

Originally Posted by wick

Nice. Don't think there were too many more hits left in that one.

No there wasn't. Couple dead hooks from going nowhere fast.

Ok back together. Was easier to do than I thought it would be. Only thing left to build is an auto. That may never happen since I am allergic to them

Those stupid snap rings suck beyond all things that can suck. I won, they lost and all is well in the world.

Blockers still look great

**wick** · 04-23-2017, 10:18 PM

That part of the blocker doesn't do anything. It's the actual cone portion that does the work. Did you check measurement on a slider to be certain there was still life in it? I usually look for atleast .035-.045" clearance.

**Martin0660** · 04-23-2017, 10:35 PM

Faceplates solve those issues

**wick** · 04-23-2017, 10:46 PM

Originally Posted by Martin0660

Faceplates solve those issues

Hmmm. My auto doesn't have the faceplate option.
Then again, putting a manual in is way too much headache.

**sutyak** · 04-24-2017, 08:17 AM

Originally Posted by wick

That part of the blocker doesn't do anything. It's the actual cone portion that does the work. Did you check measurement on a slider to be certain there was still life in it? I usually look for atleast .035-.045" clearance.

Doesn't do anything? That friction material is responsible for slowing the spinning of the target gear when mated to the conical surface of the gear. If that material is gone, then you have no synchronizing anymore. Or were you referring to the flat, teeth section? I believe Ares was referring to how much material was left. In the TR3650's I've had apart, all of those blocker rings looked nearly perfect. It's the 1-2 rings that seem to wear much faster because of the design.
How tightly did you end up shimming? Stan told me to shoot for 0.00, so basically no preload. I err on the side of slight preload rather than have slop.

Originally Posted by Martin0660

Faceplates solve those issues

As far as I know, nobody makes them for the TR3650. One guy made his own after some trial and error, but I think he's it.

**wick** · 04-24-2017, 12:08 PM

Originally Posted by sutyak

Doesn't do anything? That friction material is responsible for slowing the spinning of the target gear when mated to the conical surface of the gear. If that material is gone, then you have no synchronizing anymore. Or were you referring to the flat, teeth section? I believe Ares was referring to how much material was left. In the TR3650's I've had apart, all of those blocker rings looked nearly perfect. It's the 1-2 rings that seem to wear much faster because of the design.
How tightly did you end up shimming? Stan told me to shoot for 0.00, so basically no preload. I err on the side of slight preload rather than have slop.

As far as I know, nobody makes them for the TR3650. One guy made his own after some trial and error, but I think he's it.

My post describes exactly what I meant which is what you said after you typed the first couple sentences. The flat surface does nothing. The conical surface is what makes the magic.

**Ares** · 04-24-2017, 05:12 PM

Everything was within spec. I did expect something to be worn besides shift spring. Again I am impressed by this trans. Wish the original I had held up as good. Has anyone actually seen the shift spring under shifter worn? I'll have to pull it back out and grab a pic of it. Seemed weird since there is no marks on the gear shift offset lever.

Preload is zero. I had to add .012" to original shim pack at input. I didn't need to shim counter shaft. Was less than .001" play there.

I think G-Force does or did offer a dog ring option for their gear set. They use to mention it on their site for the 3650. Last I looked it was gone.

**yeahloh95** · 04-24-2017, 10:11 PM

I am thinking about using a 3650 behind my coyote

**Ares** · 05-27-2017, 04:21 PM

Sitting here checking bell alignment. Most I'm seeing needle move is .006" between say 10/11 o'clock. I take half that correct? For .003"

**sutyak** · 05-27-2017, 10:49 PM

Originally Posted by Ares

Sitting here checking bell alignment. Most I'm seeing needle move is .006" between say 10/11 o'clock. I take half that correct? For .003"

Yep.

**Martin0660** · 05-28-2017, 10:02 AM

Exactly, oddset downs to half the misalignment

**Ares** · 05-28-2017, 08:23 PM

Was thinking it would be nice to not need alignment dowels. So glad that worked out.

Today I spent some time with chassis harness up front. Since I am moving everything to outside the aprons. I need to lengthen the wiring. Got driver side mounted up and added 14" to wrap around rad support, over bumper mounts. Going to keep it in stock location behind rad. Forgot to pick up some wire loom. So need to grab some in morning. Then just need to redo harness on passenger side.

**Ares** · 05-29-2017, 07:29 PM

Got chassis harness all mounted up and worked out that I didn't need to lengthen passenger side. Just had to remove some of the plastic track to allow more wiring to turn down. Was plenty long enough to go around rad support. Rather happy that all this is out of the engine bay. Does clean up well with all that clutter gone. Just have engine harness to go over. With one connector that goes to chassis harness. Went down over valve cover to frame rail before. It needs pulled all the way back to firewall connector from front of passenger side of loom. If it goes how I want you will barely see engine harness. Plan is to hide most of it under intake.

Look no chassis harness crap to be seen. Also cleaned up cowl panel and hit it with some satin black along with bead blasting screws and painting them.

Now for two connectors I cannot for the life of me figure out what they connect to. I can find nothing I have that plugs into these. Everything else I know what gets plugged into. If anyone has any ideas. I gave up trying to search for wiring diagrams. I find everything but what I am searching for.

Passenger side back corner of engine harness. Near where transmission harness plugs into. It is not for coil or injector. Squarish 2 wire plug. Even looked on stock intake for something left on it. Nothing there that this would go to.

And this one. Round two wire at top of right strut area under fender.