My Teksid Project - Orange Nightmare

[sutyak]

Looks fantastic!
Are those the connectors to the capacitors (noise suppressors) that mount to the back of the head? At least that's how the 4V is.

[Ares]

Never mind on the engine harness one. I'm a friggn idiot. It is the connector for the back coil. I was counting the water temp sensor connector at front as a coil connector

Noise suppressors are on the very front on a 2v. Still leaves that odd one at strut tower to figure out.

[2000GT]

My 2V has a connector that does not plug into anything. It looks to has the same connector fitting as a fuel injector. It is located on the front of the drivers side of the engine. I can take a picture of it when I get home if you would like. Let me know.

[Ares]

My 2V has a connector that does not plug into anything. It looks to has the same connector fitting as a fuel injector. It is located on the front of the drivers side of the engine. I can take a picture of it when I get home if you would like. Let me know.

Thanks but I figured out the engine harness. I was being a dumb ass when looking at it.

[Martin0660]

Hoe close is this to a track debut? got a target date in mind?? Your going to forget how to shift ...

[CobraII]

^^^^^ This!! ?????

[roush08]

Can't wait to see that thing back on the track

[Ares]

Honestly I don't know but I'm really itching to go racing again. First time in 18 months that I feel 100% and found my motivation again.

Need/needs done:

Clutch - Probably a SPEC 2+ again. Not sure if it will be 10.5" or 11"
Driveshaft - Need to get trans in to see what I have will fit or not. Plus I should just get a new one made that is stronger anyways. Will use what I have for now if it fits.
Roll Bar/Cage - Looking at the TeamZ setup but leaving options open. Will install myself as I have a TIG.
Seat, Seat brackets, harness.
Engine Cooling - Looking at a Griffin double row cross pass rad with -16an in/out both on driver side.
Find or might have to make a outlet housing where thermostat goes for a -16an. Need one that exits from front. Moroso has one for a 2V but exits up instead.
Clean up rad support and replace bottom side with tube.
Some minor work to intake. Cooling mod from back of each head to front return. Move IAC mount from upper elbow to under intake.
Engine Diaper from MMR
Brakes converted to manual.
Fuel tank - May use stock tank for now with the 300lph pump I have. Or just cut out spare tire well and rework that area for fuel cell.
Tuner and tuning software.
Some other misc crap I'm forgetting.

Pfttt...forget how to shift

[Martin0660]

Ahhhhhh, down to the short list, lol. Glad to see you back at it anyway. Come hang out at the track, that's always puts me in a higher gear.

[Ares]

Not sure what genius at Ford that decided to create an engine harness the way they did. I do know they need a good kick in the teeth.

The connector in red. That one was running down over the valve cover to the frame rail. I figured I would pull it back to main junction at firewall. So that it could be run under fender. Oh no, the connection in yellow is in with the one in red. Ok no biggie. Wrong, it appears that coil wires for cyl #4, 5, 6 & 8 are also going into the one in red. Why they are not in the main loom with the other trigger wires for the coils. Seems odd.

Need to add about 36" of wire to the green/yellow stripe, orange/yellow stripe and white/red stripe. Then 60" to the blue/red stripe as it is on right side of motor. GAH! Now I know why I put this off for so long.

[Ares]

Ok I put the idea of hiding the engine harness under the intake in the garbage. So not getting into reworking that. What needed moved, modified or eliminated is done. I hate, really hate electrical work. I did drill into my nice clean firewall to get tach adapter and 2 step boxes mounted. Engine harness in place (sitting in place not final way it will look) and I am rather pleased that this is the extent of wiring I will see. Now to see how well I can make the 2 step harness blend in with engine harness. Just wiring from alternator to trunk and battery forward left to do. Plus a little other minor wiring but that is mostly under dash.

Also messed with hot side. Not using the pipes leading to back so. Going to make a new down pipe which will give me some more practice with TIG. Also need to fab up some sort of brace for turbo. What came in kit was rather useless. Have an idea for that. Really need to get clutch so I can get trans in. My brace at front of motor is in my way now.

[Ares]

Remote breathers. Any certain brand to use or stay away from?

[Ares]

So trying to figure out how to route belt on the single bolt tensioner cover was driving me up a wall. So picked up a 3 bolt tensioner cover off an '98 F150. Degreased, bead blasted, smoothed edges, surface and painted. Using Rust-Oleum engine paints, Aluminum color. One would think there isn't any difference on how pulleys etc mount to any mod motor cover. I found that the idler puller ends up sitting 3.09mm further from face of cover than one for a car engine. Using a '04 Cobra belt tensioner. It sits in proper location from face of cover. Which is odd with the idler location. Stop at parts store in morning to take a look at pulleys.







Also what ever engine it came off of must have made some serious noise or blew up. Both timing chains were hitting cover and left their mark.

[Ares]

Well it seems a 98 F150 used 8 rib pulleys. Got that idler and fits perfect. If I had kept the Vortech setup. This would work out to be a cheap simple conversion to 8 rib.

Exchanged the 04 Cobra tensioner(6 rib) for a 98 F150 tensioner(8 rib). This will make for $164.55 8 rib conversion with front cover, idler pulley and correct tensioner. Now in future if turbo setup annoys me enough to go with a super charger. I'm already setup.

Also I like how Ford goes about using 8 rib pulleys. They raised the mounting boss and kept bearing centered in pulley. Where switching to 8 rib on a car cover means the front edge of pulley moves out for the wider belt but bearing is no longer centered in pulley. Seems to me that would put a lot of stress on that bearing and mounting boss if using an aftermarket tensioner that applies more pressure.

[Ares]

Well so worth the little effort. Cleaned up the casting edges on tensioner and painted it too. 3 bolt setup just looks so much better. Not sure why Ford went to the single bolt style. How much cheaper is using one long bolt vs three short bolts? The 3 bolt does everything needed and more. Wish I had did this from get go. Ah well live and learn. Ok now back to doing things to get this mfr running. Because Flintstone power in and out of trailer is getting old when I work on it.

[PaxtonShelby]

Damn that looks great.

[Martin0660]

Turbos are the devil, bolt that supercharger on there.

[yeahloh95]

looking great keep it at should be running soon

[Dickbag 5.h0]

Looking good. That's going to be one clean car!

[roush08]

Still looking forward to seeing it back at the track - stay motivated....it looks great