My Teksid Project - Orange Nightmare

[Ares]

Rebuilt starter for less than $31. Took the rusty, nasty looking starter which needed cleaned up and painted nose and magnet shell/back plate. Made sure to leave all grounding points bare. Tested and works like a champ. Also way cheaper than getting a rebuilt one from any parts store.

Starter Rebuild Kit.jpg

Starter Finished.jpg

Also rebuilt alternator since I screwed it up. Broke rectifier when trying to take apart before. So ordered rebuild kit and also upgraded stator which should give it a 40-50amp boost over the 105amp stock. Cleaned up and repainted housing and got pulley on. Left lower attachments bare for contact to block. About $115 to upgrade/rebuild which included company soldering rectifier to stator, $22 for pulley (Ford GP-720, 8rib)

Alternator Rebuild and Upgrade Kit.jpg

Alternator Front.jpg

Alternator Side.jpg

[Ares]

Redid my front bumper support bar and added a vertical tube with loop to winch car into trailer. Piece of 3/8" plate(2"x2") tapped for 2ea 3/8-24 bolts welded to bottom of core support. Flat plate to tie the vertical tube to core support. Bumper cover back on first time in over 4 years. Worked out almost perfect other than screwing up position of loop. Should have been a little higher but works as intended.

[Martin0660]

Did you check alternator ratio for shaft RPM? I was killing an alternator a season until I went to a much bigger pulley. Last one went 3 seasons.

looking good though, really like the winch point

[Ares]

Pulley ratio is 3.13/1

2.33" Alt pulley
7.29" Balancer (ATI lists this as 7.425" but it's not what it measures)

Should be slightly overdriven which will be fine for the brief time it will see high rpm. Alt = 20345rpm at 6500. If not I can bump up to 2.5 or 2.73" pulley

[Ares]

Got this made up.

Plastic plate 1/8" thick, 7 3/4"x15" with 1" aluminum angle added in center. This fits in valley of block for my engine harness/2 step harness to mount to. Will add another bracket for water pump relay and few other things. Two 12mmx1.50 thread bolts hold it down to knock sensor bosses. Washer and fender washer under plate and it sits perfect on block. Three protrusions on both sides of block also hold edge of plate. Just extend injector and COP leads, water temp lead and TP sensor lead and nearly all wiring will be gone from sight.

[Ares]

Well it was all I can do and not put off wiring any longer. That is what needs to happen next. Spend a few hours with engine harness making all the changes to it I want and run power cable to trunk.

Added dash bar to cage. Had no place to put it but looking was able to get just at bottom of dash and be, passing below where radio would be. Just had to cut out one piece of sub structure to get bar thru and once fitted and welded in . Tacked the piece back in place. Welding that bar in sucked. Just couldn't get under dash nicely ad got some nice burn marks on my arm. Right thru my damn welding jacket. Some minor trimming to crash plate below steering column and the trim piece as bottom edge was hitting bar.

Also got battery disconnect switch mounted up. Bracket on rear strut bar to mount switch. Switch is the Summit branded Flaming River piece. Have it passing thru tail light at reverse light. Just had to make sure hole thru body was sized right as push rod has some angle deflection in it's range of motion both in the swing arc and 1/4" to left as switch is turned on. Least how I had it mounted. Just need to shorten rod up 2" and drill/tap new threads for handle. Works nice and smooth.

[Martin0660]

Looking good ... so 2-3 more years on working, lol ...

I hate wiring too

[Ares]

Looking good ... so 2-3 more years on working, lol ...

I hate wiring too

LOL, no. This weekend is playing with solder gun as much as I really don't. I just want to get this done.

[Ares]

More done and list gets shorter. Rear tin work done. Had to drill out a few spots and move things around. Amazing how much even interior components on these cars are not square. Bottom panels were not even close to fitting right where I had things originally. Once I got things moved, perfect fit. Now to play with some carbon fiber sheet next. Hope what I have planned works out.

[Ares]

Gutted the heater control panel. Leaving nothing but the white plastic frame work. Replaced front with 2mm 3k Twill Carbon Fiber. That will end up for switches. Radio spot I used some 1/2" aluminum angle and riveted into dash. Then after lots of tweaking got it to sit perfect within trim panel. Boost controller and other things will go there. Just need to replace screws with something less shiny but otherwise worked out perfect. Also plugged off IAC hole in upper intake elbow and made cover from some remaining carbon. IAC will be mounted under intake as a remote setup. I have just enough carbon left over to cover the flat area on shifter trim where I had two rocker switches and the 12v outlet. Just need to shape it.

[Martin0660]

Sweet! Got to love carbon fiber. I need to make a new panel to mount my boost controller and gauge where my radio was ... on the to do list

[somethingclever]

Very professional looking Ed...nice work.

[Ares]

Got.....shiver.....wiring goodies.

All copper strand Spartan Wire(made in USA ) 25ft 4awg for alternator to trunk. Hand hydraulic crimper, has dies to do 12awg up to 2/0. Both from Amazon.

Rest from Summit.

Their 1awg kit with 20ft positive, 3 ft negative misc fitting and such. Then some copper 4awg eyelets in 1/4, 5/16" and 3/8. Some 1awg in 5/16" and 3/8" eyelets. Couple of boots and such an new alternator voltage regulator pigtail which light is reflecting off plastic so can't see.

[Martin0660]

Love the tool purchase ...

I’ll have to put what I’m doing in my thread, but keeping my battery under hood

[Ares]

So picked up some Strange chromoly trans/pinion yoke and straps. Got measurement for driveshaft. I am a solid 1.5" shorter than stock at 44". I think I can get away with 44.25" but that is with yoke pulled back 3/4". Just need to decide on a chromoly shaft or aluminum.

Tuning I nearly have myself talked into using the Megasquirt PNP2 setup for my car.

[somethingclever]

How did the wiring go?

[Martin0660]

Tuning I nearly have myself talked into using the Megasquirt PNP2 setup for my car.

a little input, if you are committed to self tuning, the Megasquirt solutions are solid and cost effective.

the problem with them is, if you want / need support or an actual tuner to work on it, most of them will turn their nose up at it.

the tuner studio software is easy enough to learn, and once set up you are basically down to working with a spark table and the VE table (fuel).

I live my set up, but also do it all myself. There is some help in the 2.3 world so I didn’t need to start on my own, but you got to do it to it.

[Martin0660]

BTW - you’ll love the real yoke over the normal flange.

I find it odd your length changed though. When I converter over, I was getting ready to do my 101a swap and KNEW the shaft length would change. I took the car to Timmy and we swapped rear gear, put the yoke on, and put a 1330 to 1350 conversion joint in my FMS driveshaft and it all worked with my T5. That all was just getting ready for the swap as I needed a new shaft with the new trans, but it fit like stock.

also remember you can get magnet collars for those yokes to do driveshaft speed once you get up and running.

[Ares]

How did the wiring go?

Very slowly. I hate wiring but I should be done with it this weekend.

BTW - you’ll love the real yoke over the normal flange.

I find it odd your length changed though. When I converter over, I was getting ready to do my 101a swap and KNEW the shaft length would change. I took the car to Timmy and we swapped rear gear, put the yoke on, and put a 1330 to 1350 conversion joint in my FMS driveshaft and it all worked with my T5. That all was just getting ready for the swap as I needed a new shaft with the new trans, but it fit like stock.

also remember you can get magnet collars for those yokes to do driveshaft speed once you get up and running.

Trans got pushed back as the 3650 was converted to use a steel bell housing. Adapter plate and Quicktime bell should have only moved end of trans back 1/2"(I have my original 3650 and can remeasure to compare). I'm not sure how the Team Z k-member effected things. As all my hot side pipes line up over tie rods perfect. I have no pics of how the engine sat near firewall when I had the QA1 k-member.

[sutyak]

For the driveshaft shortness, I had a friend machine a spacer for my Mach 1. I'm sure he'd be willing to make another:

http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/...t=turbo&page=8