My Teksid Project - Orange Nightmare

**2001GTTT** · 04-26-2016, 12:38 PM

seeing this build makes me want another 2v car

**Ares** · 05-10-2016, 06:45 PM

Yes $60 for two stupid screw in dowels for tensioner arms. So hate using dealerships for parts but two on the way. Get these and pick up new guides and arms and can get cams setup. Then engine closed up...FINALLY

Scary isn't it.

Ford P/N YR3Z-6K282-AA but did find that Melling makes the same thing P/N 5497B but of course no one sells it. Been out for almost a year. Local parts store called all the local warehouses and nothing.

**Ares** · 05-11-2016, 07:28 PM

Probably not going to use these dowels. Still picked them up since I asked for them to be ordered. They gave me a discount on them since I was taking them. So made it a little better. Found out these are a weak link and can break in high hp setups. Even low rpm 2step use can break these, but who uses a 2step at low rpm

Always my luck to stumble on these things after the fact. Have far stronger design on the way from Cobra Engineering.

**Martin0660** · 05-12-2016, 01:52 PM

If there is a weak link, the two step will find it ... Let's not even talk about low rpm, that's some foreign language Troy speaks

**Ares** · 05-12-2016, 06:06 PM

Originally Posted by Martin0660

If there is a weak link, the two step will find it ... Let's not even talk about low rpm, that's some foreign language Troy speaks

Ain't that the truth.

Really hoping UPS is wrong and this stuff shows up Friday. Coming from UP of Michigan and last I saw was last scanned north of Lansing. Suppose I an degree cams using the Ford dowels. Just means I have to rip it all apart. If not I think I can find about a hundred other things that need done on car.

**Martin0660** · 05-12-2016, 06:10 PM

Wait until you add high EGT ... Turbo studs, nuts, and ultimately gaskets are consumables

**yeahloh95** · 05-13-2016, 10:04 AM

wait I just tried setting my 2 step to 2500 it doesn't go that low ?????

**Ares** · 05-16-2016, 06:23 PM

Got the tool and new upgraded dowel screws. Pretty nice piece I must say. Both tool and screws.

Tool fixture to drill out existing 6mm threads and tap for bigger 8mm threaded dowels. Comes with fixture, drill bit, tap and case.

Pivot point is now 9mm. I will need to drill out or ream tension arms to fit.

Threads

**Martin0660** · 05-17-2016, 01:00 PM

Nice Ed, you have an ETA on this running again?

**Ares** · 05-17-2016, 06:44 PM

Originally Posted by Martin0660

Nice Ed, you have an ETA on this running again?

I'm hoping sometime in July. Only really able to do anything on weekends since I'm doing this at work. At this rate I will have the Ram out making passes

So much to do and buy yet.

**Ares** · 05-21-2016, 10:03 PM

New dowels installed, cams degreed. I must say with the fixture drilling out existing 6mm threads and tapping for 8mm threads never went so easy. Little drop of red loctite and torqued to 12ftlbs. Next was getting tension arms to fit the 9mm dowel. 23/64 bit measures to 9.05mm but after testing on one of my old arms. The hole ended up to 9.15mm and allowed to much play side ways. Tried a 11/32 bit which made hole 8.75mm. Enlarged using Dremel and small sanding drum, massaged until arms just fit on. Ended up with holes on both arms at 9.03mm.

Cams, typical Comp Cams grinds. Finding the right side cam advanced over left cam. Right ended up needing retarded 2.5* and left cam advanced .5* to get both setup to the intake valve timing events.

Upgraded dowel vs Stock Ford dowel

**Ares** · 05-29-2016, 09:48 PM

So motor and trans are out. K-member not so. 1 out of the 4 large bolts out. The other three. I couldn't even break loose with impact gun seeing 150psi supply pressure. Said fk it and sprayed them down and left for the day. Back to shop bright and early Monday so I can get it apart, frame rail fixed and new stuff in.

Winters....bah Friggn nasty looking QA1 k and arms.

Right frame rail that header was up against. Have some 1/8" plate and 16g to repair.

8 1/2 year old Spec 2+ Clutch. Must say it wore very nicely but would not have made more than a handful of passes. The flywheel side is worn down to just above large rivet heads. Maybe a few thou at best.

Pressure plate side not too bad

**sutyak** · 05-29-2016, 09:49 PM

Wow I'm impressed with that SPEC.

**Ares** · 05-30-2016, 10:21 PM

Originally Posted by sutyak

Wow I'm impressed with that SPEC.

I was very happy with that clutch even if it was complete overkill for my car. Had very nice manners on street and took everything I tossed at it at track. I think if they had reshaped pucks for pressure plate. They would have had full contact. Can see in pic that part didn't make contact on inside.

Got last three pain in butt bolts out and got old K-member off. Impact got one off and last two I had to cut off. Started repairing frame rail and it was a mess. Totally rotted on entire side for width of strut tower. Drain hole in bottom of rail was blocked by K-member and water didn't have an easy way out. Cut it all out and replaced with 16ga. Few more things to finish on it but had to get it rolling again and out of shop for the week. Got the Team Z parts installed and must say nice fit. Fresh hardware all around lightly snugged down for now.

Anyone have any ideas on a cheap manual steering setup? Rather not spend $700 on Flaming River stuff if I can avoid it.

**Ares** · 06-28-2016, 10:47 PM

Ok four wires left. My mess from waterpump relays and 2step and line lock that was jammed in around hydroboost(was 17.5lbs off firewall, going manual setup from Maximum Motorsports

). Going to clean that little mess of wiring up as well.

Currently, right strut tower and frame 95% done. Just need to make one reinforcement plate and cover inside frame rail with fresh metal. (not in pic) Left strut tower is at 50% rebuilt. Frame area fixed and few things to do Saturday. Then to cut out and make new fender aprons. Have 22g for that. Don't mind sorbant on floor I bumped my pan of brake fluid when removing everything. Made Yosemite Sam blush when that happened. Tested some paint for engine bay on firewall. Top is Rustoleum Chevy Orange and bottom is Duplicolor Chevy Orange Red which is damn close to Comp Orange.

Testing the paint for engine bay on scrap metal. Sitting on fender with original paint. right is the Rustoleum (tad bright but close), left is Duplicolor P/N DE1607(tad darker but what I'm leaning towards for paint)

Hope to have all the metal work for strut towers, frame rail and aprons done Saturday. Like to have it all smoothed and in primer Sunday. Still need to pull dash to get heating crap out. So I can take care of fire wall.

**Ares** · 07-10-2016, 08:22 PM

Next time I decide to do this. Someone smack me in head with 2x4. Course the end result should look pretty damn good.

Driver apron done. Need to make up passenger side apron and then finish smoothing.

**wick** · 07-10-2016, 11:52 PM

You do know that Scott rod fab could have hooked you up with these panels for cheap and saved you hours of work, right?

I am anxiously waiting the finished product though.

**Ares** · 07-11-2016, 12:42 AM

Other than labor. I'll be $35 into this but I was looking at those before deciding to do them myself.

**wick** · 07-11-2016, 07:30 AM

I hear ya. It does look good just time consuming making them.

**Ares** · 07-17-2016, 08:10 PM

Nothing but firewall left to do welding wise. Unless I decide to mod rad support. Both aprons done and seam sealed backside everywhere. Made a bracket to hold power distribution box and welded it to left apron. Box that was on right apron I tacked the studs to apron and bolted it back on. I may have to cut the entire harness that runs across rad support. Where I want to run, as it may need extended a few inches.

Time for body filler and lots of lovely sanding

Power Distribution block bracket. Will be upside down but in a spot for easy access.