My Teksid Project - Orange Nightmare

[Ares]

Just looking at pics of Iron and Aluminum(Teksid and WAP) 4.6 blocks. Both have an ear sticking out to side from the dowel area. Looks like it is for placement during factory machining. Only mod block I see that doesn't is the Boss block which has the 3.7" bore.

[Ares]

For once I just want something to go smoothly. Oh ya putting in this transmission sucked. Heavy damn thing. Had to make a wooden cradle to go under it and sit on jack. Got it all in place and tie to put bolts in. Bolt holes on bell are about useless. Hand snugging trans to bell bolts and both bottom ones give way. Lucky enough I can put longer bolts on and put a lock nut on back side. Top I was not trusting after bottom ones and was able to fit a thin jam nut on top ones.

Using Energy Suspension motor/trans mounts. So get trans mount in and everything looks good. Then see oil pan is up against k-member down tube. Can't even fit a piece of paper between pan and tube. Plenty of room from pan to top of steering rack. Which leads me to next question.

How much does a motor need to lean back? Looks like it is between 4 and 5*. If I shim up trans mount I can gain some room.


Edit - Ok some searching it seems I got some shimming to do on trans mount. May need to drop k-member also to gain pan clearance for engine diaper. Should have bought the aluminum oil pan. I wouldn't have this issue.

[PaxtonShelby]

Nothing ever goes smoothly...at least for me.

[somethingclever]

3 deg is typical.

[Martin0660]

I would look at the working angles as a whole to decide on shimming mount.

Download the TREMEC app, it has a driveline angle tool using your phone .... in the end, three measurements, angle of engine / transmission as the start point, angle of the driveshaft, and finally the pinion angle ... it tries to get you to equal working angles, and under 3 degrees.

This is of course looks at it like a street car. I run a ton extra pinion angle than most. I actually just went through all of mine this weekend and ended up adding some shim under my trans mount as my front angle was rather light.

[Ares]

Not what I wanted to do today but it's out of the way.

Solved the oil pan hitting k-member issue. Seems the current Team Z k-members. The rear slot is the stock location. So got everything moved back which fixed the oil pan issue. Which of course moved the trans mount back and had to rework it. Using Energy Suspension motor/trans mounts.

Notched cross member so it could sit closer to transmission. Moved mount holes back 1/2" and everything bolts in but the two mount bolt holes could be tweaked slightly to rear.

[Ares]

Should have called this Project Glacier. Moves about as fast as one. Even better Project Just get it the f*** done already.

Went back over the trans cross member and mount holes need to go back another 1/8". Amazing it bolted together the way it did. The mount is flexible. I need to build some cribbing to sit car on to get under it easier. Engine now sitting at 3.2* which is better than is was. Just pain to get measurements at tail shaft and pinion.

Painted exhaust housing with a 2000* paint. Put piece of tubing in vise then housing on that. Jammed heat gun in inlet side and set to 700*. Cooked for 25 min, cooled for 30 min. Did that 3 times. Paint doesn't seem to even scratch so far.

Tired putting stock rad and fan in and yah that's not gonna work. Can't get fan on with turbo in place. When all in place turbo flange is about 3/4" from fan motor and wiring. May try to find a pusher fan but only have 3" room. Stock fan is about 5" total thickness. That or cut everything and move rad forward 2".

[Martin0660]

Turbos are the devil

[somethingclever]

I think moving rad forward is the best bet in street application.

If drag racing only I bet you can get by with pusher.

[Ares]

Turbo support bracket made. Used exactly 36" of 1/2" tubing. Bead blasted it after welding so paint holds better. Have it painted satin black just not in pics. Set it up to fit on alternator and be easily removable for belt changes and such.

[Ares]

Little paint and it looks good.

[PaxtonShelby]

Nice. Track day on 10/29?

[Dan B.]

Nice. Track day on 10/29?

10/29/2020......right on schedule.

[Ares]

10/29/2020......right on schedule.

[Ares]

Took care of two things with one project.

Was able to clean up top of radiator support by cutting out 32" of the factory piece(4.20 lbs). Replaced with 1/8" plate, 3" wide on top and 2" wide on front which is same as factory size(5.05 lbs). This saved time trying to close up all the holes in factory piece and allowed me to move chassis harness forward. Which allows top of rad to move forward. Tacked in 1/2" square tube under to screw harness into. Still need to modify top factory rad mounts. Will have it so they can bolt in from underneath to hide any hardware.

On the bottom. I cut off the lower rad mounts. Cut out lower rad support and modified the mounts to sit back 2". Also notched passenger side of support for the radiator drain. Boxed in the cut out. Need to pick up more sanding wheels for die grinder to finish blending in the welds. Worked out perfect as rad fits inside the rad support and now moved fan away from turbo. Think it was only 1/2" from the merge. Also can drop fan in. Before it would not fit with out some serious maneuvering.

[somethingclever]

That was well worth the effort IMO.


Looks great.

[PaxtonShelby]

It is going to be too pretty to drive in anger...

[CobraII]

That won't stop him, Ron. Ed will drive angry.

[Ares]

That won't stop him, Ron. Ed will drive angry.

Muhahahaha...cough.....hahahaha

[Ares]

It is going to be too pretty to drive in anger...