My Teksid Project - Orange Nightmare

[Ares]

Starting tommorrow I begin the teardown of the Mark8 engine. At this point I have 3 ideas.

1. Use the existing shortblock with my ported heads and stay NA. Send pistons out to get notched for intake and exhaust. Swap rods for set of forged pieces to handle higher rpm. Already have a cam recommended, a Bullet Stage5 piece(Dur-250/248 Lift-540/540 106/110CL's 108-lobe sep . Shift points will end up in the 7500-7800 range. Just using the short block with the 4v pistons will net a 2+point compression jump from about 9.5 to 11.7 plus being 68lbs light than my current block. Sort of where I am leaning to doing

2. Use block for a 2v Power Adder build. The Vortech blower I have is not set in stone. May sell and go with a turbo.

3. Use block and the B heads with a MMR intake for a 4v Power Adder build.

The 4r70w trans I already have some great ideas on using it without a computer. Be full manual with transbrake and setup to lockup convertor in 3rd. if I want to have some sort of computer control I think the controller from Baumann will do. Though I still have my broken 3650 I could send out to be upgraded.

All I know is I want car ready for march. This mofo is going to Flordia to go racing.

[Pure Stock]

Idea no. 1 and keep the 3rd pedal is my vote.

[Martin0660]

Idea no. 1 and keep the 3rd pedal is my vote.

X2 - My vote is here as well. If you was to loose 50+ #'s off the nose of your car it would leave so cool and that cmpression bump would rock.

I would hate to see you go auto, but I have a buddy that is using the Bauman controller with the 4R70W and says it really works well.

[Ares]

Ya I wouldn't mind staying NA and #1 could end up being pretty mean. I'll see where I'm at tommorrow once I get heads off. I forgot balancer puller so made it hard to yank timing cover today. Think I tossed the exhaust manifolds, A/C compressor, power steering pump and entire engine cradle in the dumpster today along with alot of nuts and bolts.

Well the trans may be bad. Well I suppose once it's welded it will be fine. The left side locating hole was cracked on bell housing. Looks like the trans was once out ot the car as I found the torque convertor had a sticker saying it was refurbished. Kinda explains why 3 of the trans bolts were seized in block. I did get those out with torch heating block up. They did finally give way and start out without breaking. Kinda neat with aluminum while applying pressure to breaker bar they give this little pop when they were able to turn.

[cemnt guy]

you could sell me the vortech and buy trickflow heads.if your gonna turn the rpms they would make more power.

[Ares]

Nice suprise. The inside of engine is pretty damn clean. Oil came out black as black can get but someone did a nice job of changing oil to be so clean inside. Still have a nice cross hatch pattern to cylinder walls. Wasn't expecting the pistons to be flat tops. I figured they had some sort of dish but less then what my 2v motor has.

Get the block hot tanked and deburred. Tap oil returns in block from head for tubing to put returning oil further away from crank. Get a full windage tray and crank scrapper ordered. Found one for a 3.75" crank need to see if one is made for stock stroke.

[Ares]

Didn't get to rotating assembly as I had way too many stuck bolts to deal with this weekend. Suprised my bottle of map gas lasted. Bolts going into an aluminum block that are non critical fasteners should have some sort of anti-seize. Thought for sure i was going to break alot of bolts which would have sucked to drill and retap.

Few pics so far.

Gotta give Ford credit for making a good looking engine. Too bad the 2v motors look so bad.


Top end was nice and clean.


Again clean from front.


All cylinders look the same.


Gotta send these pistons out to by notched for valves if I stay 2vNA

[Martin0660]

Nice progress Ed ... glad to see another that lives by MAPP gas (god I need to buy a set of real torches). Knowing what I know about mod motors (translation - nothing) what's the difference in pistons? Are yours dished that these will need notched?

I might however change my vote on what to do ... your right, those look sexy compared to the 2V stuff, might need ot keep those heads on it ;)

[Ares]

This is what the dish on my stock pistons looks like. Actually I had to notch my current pistons as intake valves all hit pistons on outer edge with current cam. The 4v ones are nearly flat tops. They do have a very very slight dish to them. Thats the biggest bang for the buck in reusing them with my PI heads.

[biminiLX]

What do you want out of it Ed? goals?
I always prefer the 4V but you have the best set of 2V heads available, tough call.
-J

[Ares]

What do you want out of it Ed? goals?
I always prefer the 4V but you have the best set of 2V heads available, tough call.
-J

I want to see 11.5x if not better. May not the fastest 2v NA but should be alot of fun since there's not many doing it.

[TooFast98Cobra]

subscribing... good build here, glad to see you are getting your hands dirty.

[biminiLX]

I would think your 2V combo should get close especially with those bigger cams. Probably a bit easier with the 4V, but I think either could get it done.
I'd keep the stick myself unless you want more reliability/consistency with an auto, I've really liked my AOD so far and the 4R should be even better with the shorter 1st gear and lock-up should live at those power levels.
-J

[Ares]

Took my entire lunch today just to get oil pan off block. I had 3 bolts stuck so bad that the heads rounded off. Beat them with hammer to mushroom them and then hammered on a 3/8" 6 point socket. From there 2 came out with a little effort and last one nearly broke off in block. Head was starting to turn but I could see tip of bolt not moving. Gave block around bolt a few good whacks with hammer and it then started to turn. Will need to clean up all holes with a tap. Again steel bolts in an aluminum block with no anti-seize is frustrating.

I will be reusing the Mark 8 oil pan on the mustang. The side kickout is nice for the added oil. Whats real nice is the baffling and oil control built into this pan. Probably will bead blast pan and add a few things too it. Then paint it.

Also the pistons are dished if barely. Think they are 2.8cc

[Ares]

All torn down. Got the #1 piston/rod out. I didn't know that the rods were bushed on these. Cleaned them up as best I could and weighed them.

Piston - 351.6g
Rod - 570.2g
Wrist Pin - 105.5g
Pin clips - .8g each / 1.6g total
Rod bearing - 49.3g
Ring pkg - 29.9g

Total - 1108.1g +/- .1g

Looking at either a H beam rod which is a lil lighter at 565g or an Ultralite I-beam rod weighing 538g both are 4340 and with ARP2000 cap screws.

Block


No.1 Main


No.1 Main bearing


One of the Rod Journals

[Ares]

Stock powder rods

Rod being weighed

[jaa55]

I say go 4 valve!

Cool build you have going on

[Martin0660]

May not the fastest 2v NA but should be alot of fun since there's not many doing it.

What are the "fastest" guys running Ed? And I don't mean Taco shells, but cars that can be driven ...

So are you setting the bar at 11.50 for next year?

[Ares]

Mid 11's Bob, not alot of them but they exist. Most 2vNA cars are running where I'm at nowat low 12's. Fastest stock longblock/head combo went 11.96 and that was launching and shifting just shy of 7k which I had raced against this car back in 2003.

[Ares]

Been swaying back and forth on this build and going to do a 2v blower build. Especially being I have the blower collecting dust. So I have a set of DSS GSX forged pistons #4816X's with 18cc dish and valve reliefs on the way

Next up is picking a rod, rings and bearings. Getting rotating assembly balanced. Pick an intake and cam. Decide on air or water intercooled. Do fuel system.