I own a 2000 GT and i want to cam it out. I was looking at getting stage II comp cams. What are the pros and cons to that? my car is slightly modded and i dont know alot about cams. Any advice would be nice thx
I own a 2000 GT and i want to cam it out. I was looking at getting stage II comp cams. What are the pros and cons to that? my car is slightly modded and i dont know alot about cams. Any advice would be nice thx
2013 School Bus Yellow Boss 302
-Recaros, Torsen #0054
-Ford Boss Springs, BMR Upper/Lower Control Arms, Panhard Bar
-LED Interior Lights, 15% Tint, Carbon Fiber this and that.
-JLT, Lund nGauge
2016 Ford Focus ST - Kona Blue - DD
-ST3, Recaros, Nav, Roof etc
-Springs, Tint, Mountune Intake
1983 Black GT Hatch 5.0 - Sold
2011 Sterling Gray GT - Sold
2010 Candy Red Metallic GT - Sold
2004 Competition Orange Mach 1 - Sold
2000 Silver GT - Sold
1969 Candy Apple Red Mustang Coupe - Sold
Pro's to a cam swap are obviously more power and a nasty idle. The main drawbacks can be a slight loss in driveability and mpg. If your car is an auto I would look into an aftermarket torque converter since cams move your powerband up and can surge with low factory stall speeds. Your 3.73's should help with that though. You will prob want to switch to longtube headers as well to maximize your gains with the cams.
Dennis
2006 GTO
Gone but not forgotten
2015 SHO
Mostly stock
2014 Cruze
Living the MPG life
Oh thanks, only took 4 years and 2 cars to do it
Dennis
2006 GTO
Gone but not forgotten
2015 SHO
Mostly stock
2014 Cruze
Living the MPG life
Dennis brings up some great points.
Also, the board vendors will be able to perform your installation needs. See their contact info on the forums page.
-JOHN
Carburetors and SAE wrenches.................
Buy Made in the USA - It Matters.
I know I'm not adding much value to this thread, but somethingclever, I knew that quote was sig-worthy.
More on-topic- Purchasing cams is something you want to know a lot about before you just buy them. If you put the wrong cams for your setup in the car, it could not run near what it could with the right cams. Also, you want to make sure whatever cams you decide to go with "fit" with stock pistons. You don't want to buy cams to find out they send the valves right into the head.
hitech or modular headshop cams only!and long tubes go very nicely with the cams
6.4 litre fox and its all ford
Those hitech cams made great power!
http://www.streetlethalperformance.net
Let us know your parts needs! We will work to get you the lowest possible price!
Would i need a new stall convertor even if i have the 3.73 and an SCT to tune it all together. (yes i do have an automatic) Now im more of a DIY kinda kid ( but will get help if im in over my head), and ive installed my gears and countless other projects etc but heres what i have and someone point me to the right cams
i have 3.73s, cold air intake, off road x pype system with pypes mufflers, i have an SCT tuner and have an automatic car. I plan to get a 75mm throttle body, spacer, and headers before getting the cams. So with that kind of setup, what cams should i look at?
thanks for ur help guys i appreciate it
2013 School Bus Yellow Boss 302
-Recaros, Torsen #0054
-Ford Boss Springs, BMR Upper/Lower Control Arms, Panhard Bar
-LED Interior Lights, 15% Tint, Carbon Fiber this and that.
-JLT, Lund nGauge
2016 Ford Focus ST - Kona Blue - DD
-ST3, Recaros, Nav, Roof etc
-Springs, Tint, Mountune Intake
1983 Black GT Hatch 5.0 - Sold
2011 Sterling Gray GT - Sold
2010 Candy Red Metallic GT - Sold
2004 Competition Orange Mach 1 - Sold
2000 Silver GT - Sold
1969 Candy Apple Red Mustang Coupe - Sold
If you get mild enough cams then you could prob get away with using the factory converter. I will say this as a former 2v auto owner, I would do a converter before cams any day. Even with 4.10's my car was a dog at lower rpms and cams would make that even worse. Just something to think about.
Dennis
2006 GTO
Gone but not forgotten
2015 SHO
Mostly stock
2014 Cruze
Living the MPG life
Yeah how hard is it to install one and how much would one cost on average
2013 School Bus Yellow Boss 302
-Recaros, Torsen #0054
-Ford Boss Springs, BMR Upper/Lower Control Arms, Panhard Bar
-LED Interior Lights, 15% Tint, Carbon Fiber this and that.
-JLT, Lund nGauge
2016 Ford Focus ST - Kona Blue - DD
-ST3, Recaros, Nav, Roof etc
-Springs, Tint, Mountune Intake
1983 Black GT Hatch 5.0 - Sold
2011 Sterling Gray GT - Sold
2010 Candy Red Metallic GT - Sold
2004 Competition Orange Mach 1 - Sold
2000 Silver GT - Sold
1969 Candy Apple Red Mustang Coupe - Sold
you should really do some research into camshafts and how they affect an engine. IMO they are probably the most important part of an engine. Look into different camshaft properties and what they mean and dont just buy cams cause they are "Stage 3 race cams! YAY!" or whatever the company decides to call them
thats my .02
2 Camshafts ? One on each head ?
Complete Silliness.
great advice do your research then do it again.make calls to the companys. worst mistake you can make is to overcam your car. i am totally happy with mine but i researched for 6 months. cost is high cams and springs will set u back 800 alone.as always all mods should be done after lots of research and talking with the local installers.feel free to shoot me a pm with any 2v questions u may have, ive been on this road your on for 4 years good luck to u
6.4 litre fox and its all ford
The mustang had the factory converter in it. I was going to throw a 3800 in it but I just got bored with it before i got the chance.
A good converter will cost upwards of $700 or more. I think the install would be a little easier than the cams depending on your level of automotive knowledge.
Dennis
2006 GTO
Gone but not forgotten
2015 SHO
Mostly stock
2014 Cruze
Living the MPG life
Here's an old thread that might help your decision: I had an '01 with full bolt-ons and I was in the same situation as you. I had cams and longtubes installed and picked up about 40hp and 25ft-lbs.
http://www.steelcitystangs.com/forum...ead.php?t=7962
There weren't too many companies making cams for 2v even a few years ago. Comp Cams was one of the first and I chose the Stage I (xe262ah). Read through the specs, but this was my reasoning:
1. street car. stage I RPM range is 1,500-5,500. car already had 3.73s in it. 4.10s would've been better even with the Stage I. Any cam that needs more rpm than this, I would think a minimum 4.30 would be required.
2. not really recommended, but you can use stock cam springs with Stage I which I did and put about 3,000 trouble-free miles on them. (edit: nothing broke, I just traded the car in).
3. I'm not a scientist, but from what I was told, the stage I is more blower-friendly if you ever wanted to go that route you wouldn't necessarily have to change the cams. Stage II or something with more duration on the intake/exhaust would cause your forced induction to blow straight through your combustion chamber before ignition. Again, I'm not an expert. Someone else can chime in on this point.
4. I'd rather have more average HP from a lower RPM than a higher peak HP number. Unless you're going to use the car as an all-out race car and run it at 6,500rpms all day, it's going to feel like a dog on the street and in the low-end with crazy, lopey cams.
5. If you're just doing it for sound, sell the Mustang and buy a fart-canned civic. hahahaha just jacking you dude.
Like everyone else says, research the hell out of them and if you got the time and cash have somebody custom-grind 'em for you...
good luck!
Last edited by Troll; 12-17-2010 at 12:06 PM.
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