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Thread: trying to learn cams

  1. #1
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    trying to learn cams

    • M-6250-E303
    • Good idle quality. Excellent low- and mid-range power. Power through 6000 RPM. Emissions legal with 5-speed manual trans (E.O. #D-225-16). Works good with automatic transmission. Great for superchargers. (3)
    • M-6250-F303*
    • Slightly rougher idle than E303. More mid-range and top-end power than E303. Great for superchargers. 5-speed manual transmission recommended. (3)
    • M-6250-B303*
    • Fair idle quality. Good low-end torque. Significant top-end horsepower above 4000 RPM. 5-speed manual transmission recommended. (3)
    • M-6250-X303*
    • Ultra high performance camshaft. Fair idle quality. Big time torque and horsepower maker-up to 6200 RPM. 5-speed manual transmission recommended. (3)
    • M-6250-Z303*
    • CamZilla” the biggest and baddest camshaft Ford Racing offers. Fair idle quality. Big time torque and horsepower maker—up to 6500 RPM. 5-speed manual transmission recommended. (3)
    well i knew about the E303 forever...it looks good with the auto. rest say 5 speed. although i dont know about the duration and intak/exhaust. how to decide there.

    yes im a dumb newb hillbilly. (now that that's out of the way can we get serious.)
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  2. #2
    Not Bad for 367 SAE RWHP Pure Stock's Avatar
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    There are *much* better alternatives out there today other than the B and E 303's. The F cam remains a viable choice though. I've seen it perform with out of the box T.W.'s on a stock shortblock with a GT-40 intake and 65mm T.B. Shorty headers and a race weight of 3,200 with driver. It pulled hard to 5,800 rpm and generated a N/A trap speed of damn near 111 mph. Same combo with an S-trim pullied at 7.5 lbs. ran 124 out the back door with absolutely no tune and a portly race weight of 3350 lbs.

    As far as the X and Z go, no real world experience on those.
    Last edited by Pure Stock; 03-15-2007 at 04:20 PM.
    2011 Mustang GT, MT-82, 3.73's :

    BONE STOCK 12.223@115.18

  3. #3
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    well i was considering a "budget cam" as im afraid to put too much into this 162k mile motor.

    it will be compression tested next weekend to verify everything. i just worry about modding a high mileage motor too much

  4. #4
    far from a newb!!! INSANELY CRAZY's Avatar
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    dont worry, hell if you mod it then it will like new.... i've modded 200+ miles 5.0's and had no problems.. go for it

    F cam is a nice cam, lope nice, can still kept car at idle...
    ridin fast,hittin da hills,throwin some dirt

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  5. #5
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    I hate to be a trouble maker, but,
    1. The compression test will let you know about the condidtion on the rings.
    2. If you are going to pull the engine to swap the cam, then flip the motor, pull the pan and mic the crank. If it doesn't need to be ground, put new bearings in it and your good. Bearing are cheap for a near stock engine. It is a nice peice on mind.
    If it does need to be ground, the extra horse power and heavy foot would have lead to an early demise for the engine. Have the crank ground and put new oversized bearing in it.

    If you have to pull the engine and timeing chain cover for the cam, you have over half the work already done, check the bottom end.

  6. #6
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    i was unaware you had to pull the motor for a cam install on the 5.0. i guess since it bigger than the 3.8 there isnt room to install it with the motor in.

    this may change things a little.

  7. #7
    Banned George C's Avatar
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    cams go in with motor in car!!!

    man all those cams are tiny compared to what im used to. i think F would be alright in your case

    but im also used to another world cams. where 550 lift is tiny along with 228 duration being baby

  8. #8
    Senior Member wick's Avatar
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    Yeah, pull the rad, flip the A/C condenser out of the way and have at it.
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    Senior Member 383taman's Avatar
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    Senior Member lib88stang's Avatar
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    Most people hate the B-cam, but I like it

  11. #11
    Sexy and i know it fast4ord's Avatar
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    Go with a dual pattern cam, alphabet cams are timeless, and put a 5-speed in that pig
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by wick View Post
    Yeah, pull the rad, flip the A/C condenser out of the way and have at it.
    Sorry of the bum information.

  13. #13
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    thats good to hear. i will call a few shops and see which one they reccomend. X or E.


    also ill keep my auto for a while. going with a stall as soon as i can get back to pick it up....hope it not sold :)

  14. #14
    Banned George C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jared View Post
    thats good to hear. i will call a few shops and see which one they reccomend. X or E.


    also ill keep my auto for a while. going with a stall as soon as i can get back to pick it up....hope it not sold :)
    just buy the built trans i have, comes with a nice 3200 and will work well with a ncie cam

  15. #15
    Big Daddy gmkillr's Avatar
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    If you have a stock bottom end the "X" isnt going to fit. Forget about the Ford cams, get yourself a nice OTS Comp Cam, there like $249
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmkillr View Post
    If you have a stock bottom end the "X" isnt going to fit. Forget about the Ford cams, get yourself a nice OTS Comp Cam, there like $249

    why not? my understanding is the ford cams are generally made for near stock motors.

  17. #17
    Senior Member lib88stang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fast4ord View Post
    Go with a dual pattern cam, alphabet cams are timeless, and put a 5-speed in that pig
    The Ford cams are still good cams, and perform just as good and split dura. with the right combo, also a 5 speed won't be needed with the right gears and converter.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by lib88stang View Post
    The Ford cams are still good cams, and perform just as good and split dura. with the right combo, also a 5 speed won't be needed with the right gears and converter.

    3.73 and 3k stall is my plans.

  19. #19
    Senior Member lib88stang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jared View Post
    3.73 and 3k stall is my plans.
    F cam with roller rockers would work well also , but then you'll want heads and intake too. it all depends on whjat your wanting the car to do.

  20. #20
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    right now just a budget toy....nothing radical. i love the sound of cam and its a nice low cost mod compared to most hp mods. want something not too embarrising at track but still remain daily driveable.


    see i limit myself to $x/month for car mods...and im trying to stick to it.

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