Back to the Basics - Short Belt somg removal

**coralcoupe1993** · 03-17-2007, 02:16 PM

I am removing my smog pump on a fox. What all can I remove and how do I run my belt when removing smog and AC? What is the best way to pug the air holes on the back of the heads? Do I move my power steering pump? What all do I need. It is time to take some more weight out of this thing!!!

**Pure Stock** · 03-17-2007, 02:29 PM

Originally Posted by coralcoupe1993

I am removing my smog pump on a fox. What all can I remove and how do I run my belt when removing smog and AC? What is the best way to pug the air holes on the back of the heads? Do I move my power steering pump? What all do I need. It is time to take some more weight out of this thing!!!

Ditch the smog and A/C. Went to Lowe's and found some short bolts (can't remember the size) and plugged the air holes with those. You can leave the P/S where it is currently. March Performance sells a tensioner relocation. Hers is a link to it http://www.marchperf.com/instruction...structions.pdf

I still have it somewhere.

**coralcoupe1993** · 03-17-2007, 02:38 PM

Originally Posted by Pure Stock

Ditch the smog and A/C. Went to Lowe's and found some short bolts (can't remember the size) and plugged the air holes with those. You can leave the P/S where it is currently. March Performance sells a tensioner relocation. Hers is a link to it http://www.marchperf.com/instruction...structions.pdf

I still have it somewhere.

Cool! What VAC lines do I need here outside of EGR/PCV? Do I need anything assocated with the evap box? I think I just took about 50lbs out of the front of this car in the last 30 min.

**coralcoupe1993** · 03-17-2007, 02:40 PM

Yo-Joe....What else can ditch out of this thing? I need to go light. I didnt want to do a K member untill I did my new motor but I want to see how far I can push this stock short block.

**INSANELY CRAZY** · 03-17-2007, 02:50 PM

take the smog tube off from behind the heads, cut the ends off turn them around then bolt them back to the heads(will be on opp side now) the flat part will cover the holes. then for the vac. lines either use a lighter to melt closed or use a bolt to clamp it closed. dont forget to plug h-pipe. a/c now... pull condesor,compesser and lines off. (if you get the fms a/c delete it will move the p/s up...remove the canister from the firewall and all hoses going to it.

**lib88stang** · 03-17-2007, 04:39 PM

Originally Posted by INSANELY CRAZY

take the smog tube off from behind the heads, cut the ends off turn them around then bolt them back to the heads(will be on opp side now) the flat part will cover the holes. then for the vac. lines either use a lighter to melt closed or use a bolt to clamp it closed. dont forget to plug h-pipe. a/c now... pull condesor,compesser and lines off. (if you get the fms a/c delete it will move the p/s up...remove the canister from the firewall and all hoses going to it.

I agree, I like the FMS bracket that moves the PS pump up, its what came stock on non-AC cars.

**Pure Stock** · 03-17-2007, 03:27 PM

Originally Posted by coralcoupe1993

Yo-Joe....What else can ditch out of this thing? I need to go light. I didnt want to do a K member untill I did my new motor but I want to see how far I can push this stock short block.

The tubular K-member will free up A LOT (28+ lbs. reduction) of weight up front along with the A-arms in the tubular version which are roughly a 4 lb. per side mod. Moving the battery to the back is some great weight savings too. At least 30 lb. off the nose there. Stock hood is 44 lbs. (Yeah I am a fanatic when it comes to weighing shit) hahahahaha. Front sway bar still on the fox? Light weight brakes are a chunk of change BUT when the difference is felt from the cast iron calipers vs. the aluminum ones it makes the $$$$ well worth it

You already have aluminum heads on it, correct? There's some reduction there as well.

Freeing up some parasitic losses (aka mechanical water pump+clutch fan) with an electric water pump (8 hp give or take) and electric fan. On a stock 5.0L I've documented .05 reduction in E.T. when eliminating clutch fan at the track. So a couple of HP freed up there too.

You have the T.W.'s? Where do you have your base timing? Or do you leave the spout out and just dial in total timing?

**coralcoupe1993** · 03-17-2007, 03:31 PM

Originally Posted by Pure Stock

The tubular K-member will free up A LOT (28+ lbs. reduction) of weight up front along with the A-arms in the tubular version which are roughly a 4 lb. per side mod. Moving the battery to the back is some great weight savings too. At least 30 lb. off the nose there. Stock hood is 44 lbs. (Yeah I am a fanatic when it comes to weighing shit) hahahahaha. Front sway bar still on the fox? Light weight brakes are a chunk of change BUT when the difference is felt from the cast iron calipers vs. the aluminum ones it makes the $$$$ well worth it

You already have aluminum heads on it, correct? There's some reduction there as well.

Cool. Yep, batery is in the trunk and the heads are aluminum! All of the little colored plastic vac lines.....what do I need and what can I ditch?

**coralcoupe1993** · 03-17-2007, 07:09 PM

Originally Posted by Pure Stock

You have the T.W.'s? Where do you have your base timing? Or do you leave the spout out and just dial in total timing?

Yup have the TW with 2.02 intake. My timing is 16Adv with pill out.

Here is what I have done to the car and want more before doing a new motor.

Stock 93 Short block. Trick Flow TW heads, TF Track Heat intake. Steeda cam, 1.60 rollers. 70Mil TB, 76 mil MAF and 24# injectors. Tremic 3550, Pro 50 shifter. 3:73 gear, Superior 31 spine axels, Auburn diff.
Electric fan, no a/c, air pump almost off.

UPR lower control arms, Steeda double adjustable uppers, ground ponder drag springs, 90/10 drag struts. Upper and lower tq box renforcments.

Eventually I will make the car perfect in and out but for right now, I just want to see how fast I can go with the stock block.

I was thinking of a little No2 but I dont know.....