I've been looking to pick up a set of weld prostate......would my stock studs in the rear be good enough or do I need to upgrade to longer/stronger studs?
I've been looking to pick up a set of weld prostate......would my stock studs in the rear be good enough or do I need to upgrade to longer/stronger studs?
XXX RWHP
XXX RWTQ
But only if I let Kenne scream at ya. LOL
Weld Prostate??
2014 GT Premium - Sterling Gray Metallic - MT82 - Track Pack - Glass Roof - Recaro seats - Spoiler delete
12.76 @ 114.04 bone stock. Koni yellow coil-overs, BMR watts, LCA and LCA relo brackets, Borla S-type axle back.
1966 Coupe - 331 stroker - Bullet custom roller cam - cam and motor installed and dyno tuned by Rodeheavers Hot Rod - Astro A5 - McLeod RXT - 486 to the wheels - more fun than my little tires can handle
1966 Oldsmobile Toronado - currently NOT on jackstands
Is it adequate or is it legal are ethereal questions.
Fundamentally, there is no issue booting them on a running them with the proper shank lug nuts.
The issue is in the rule books. They say the stud must extend past the face of the wheel by at least the diameter of the stud. On a Ford, this is of course 1/2". The stock studs barely make it through the thick flannel of the Weld wheel, so long studs are required to meet the rule.
As far as,a strength thing, a shank lug nut has,a ton of threads engaged inside the wheel, but in effect, the head that clamps the wheel does not have any threads in it with a stock stud. If the head broke off the nut, the wheel could come off. That's the drive for the rule. Now how many times do we see lug nut heads break off?
Ultimately, its your call, and if you are going to run at a sanctioned track, there is a good chance it will be checked. PRP cracked down on this for a while, then let up, then I was told they was checking again this weekend.
To be legal and safe, put the studs in. They can be a PITA with street wheels at times for sure.
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