what plan is "best"?

**PaxtonShelby** · 05-29-2012, 06:13 PM

In the near future I am VERY hopeful to be buying a new 2013 GT. This will be the first new car I've ever purchased from a dealer. I know a lot of you folks have recently bought new cars and figure many of you have gone down this road already.

I am not trading in any cars - just selling a few outright - to "help" finance the new car.

When buying a new Ford, what plan is the best as far as price is concerned?

I can get the "X" plan thru work, and a Sterling Gray 2013 Premium GT coupe 6-speed manual with the Track Pack & leather Recaros stickers at $39,185. The price for the same car with the X-plan is $36,854. Savings = $2,331.

I'm guessing there is a better plan out there for Ford employees & families? What is that one called and does anyone know what the pricing would be for the car spec'd out as above? I don't have any family members who work for Ford, but I'm just curious on the pricing as it will let me know how much wiggle room the X-plan number really has in it.

Or...am I better off trying to negotiate a better deal with a particular dealer? I wouldn't be against buying out-of-state, flying wherever to pick it up using credit card points, driving it home, and registering it & paying the sales tax here once I get home. Is that an option that makes any sense? I've seen some pretty good deals from dealers on ebay - just not sure of the pitfalls of going that route...and some auctions have a $500 fee that gets tacked onto the price, which kills some of the fun. And I've heard that you can't buy a new car out-of-state and bring it back to PA if that car doesn't meet CA emissions? Not sure I understand that...but if someone can enlighten me that'd be great.

Thanks in advance for the help guys!

**yeahloh95** · 05-29-2012, 07:05 PM

what about ordering one ?

**03 OW SVT** · 05-29-2012, 07:18 PM

Ron the best discount you will probably get is X plan plus whatever rebate there is at the time of purchase.

**Viper_ed** · 05-29-2012, 07:32 PM

Talk to cam303.

**Seer** · 05-29-2012, 09:14 PM

Don't forget to request a paper brochure from Ford, there is usually a $750 rebate included that can combine.

**pop's stang** · 05-29-2012, 10:23 PM

The past few times I have tried to negotiate with the dealer haven't work. It's seems all the dealers are getting away from negotiating prices. I say go with the X plan.

Not sure if your going to Carlisle, but you most likely could get a rebate from them there if you sign up at there booth.

**PaxtonShelby** · 05-30-2012, 12:23 AM

Thanks guys for all the info. I have been completely "anti-new-car" from the beginning. Being an accountant ( cheap..thrifty...frugal...whatever you want to call it ),I like to pick up clean used cars and let someone else take the depreciation hit from new. But this car will be a keeper, so that's how I am justifying going new.

I have always assumed that if you order a car they'd be less likely to deal with you, as you are getting exactly what you want, versus finding a car already sitting on a lot somewhere, in which case I'd think you would have more leverage in the deal. Could be I'm wrong there.

Currently there is a $500 rebate in effect. The email response I got from the dealer said the price I listed above would be before any rebates in effect at the time of purchase, so if I can grab a $750 rebate instead of a $500 rebate that'd be nice. Every little bit helps.

Another question... is a dealer still required to report any cash payments of $10,000 or more to the IRS? Back in the day, I know the dealers had to fill out some special form in cases where "large" payments of cash were made. My books are clean, don't get me wrong, but I just don't want to attract any attention should I pay a substantial portion of the car's cost in cash. I could put down an amount of less than $10k, and then after financing the balance, make a large principal payment on the loan, but that sticks me with a large monthly payment for the remainder of the loan. Granted, the loan would be paid off more quickly, but the amount due each month would be higher than I'd like. I guess I could pay it off with a home equity loan and then write off the interest...

Before I get too carried away,..I have to get the Cobra and the wife's '66 GT ready to sell.

**Seer** · 05-30-2012, 12:25 AM

Originally Posted by PaxtonShelby

Thanks guys for all the info. I have been completely "anti-new-car" from the beginning. Being an accountant I like to pick up clean used cars and let someone else take the depreciation hit from new. But this car will be a keeper, eventually...

I have always assumed that if you order a car they'd be less likely to deal with you, as you are getting exactly what you want, versus finding a car already sitting on a lot somewhere, in which case I'd think you would have more leverage in the deal. Could be I'm wrong there.

Currently there is a $500 rebate in effect. The email response I got from the dealer said the price I listed above would be before any rebates in effect at the time of purchase, so if I can grab a $750 rebate instead of a $500 rebate that'd be nice.

Now...I have to get the Cobra and the wife's '66 GT ready to sell. Giddy up!

no... that $500 public ford rebates combines with the $750 brochure rebate... $1250 in total :D

If you can't get the $750 brochure rebate (you're not selected), there is also a $500 student rebate and a $500 military rebate. You can only have 1 of the 3, plus the current $500 ford rebate.

**PaxtonShelby** · 05-30-2012, 12:34 AM

Thanks for clarifying! I had just PM'd you back. Great to know you can piggy-back 2 rebates!!

**scorpio333** · 05-30-2012, 01:07 AM

When we bought our F150 a few months ago we had X plan available. We didn't use it, but that's a different story. We did talk to one dealer about it, he said x plan would be about 4% over invoice plus any incentives. You can order a car on xplan, you'll get the better of the incentives at time of delivery - either what was in place at time of order or what is current when picked up. The F150s were 6-8 weeks, no clue if the Mustangs are the same.

You can try to dicker with them first to see if they'll beat x plan. I would strongly assume a 13 GT is something dealers won't budge on price so the x plan is likely going to be a better price.

**Seer** · 05-30-2012, 01:16 AM

Originally Posted by scorpio333

When we bought our F150 a few months ago we had X plan available. We didn't use it, but that's a different story. We did talk to one dealer about it, he said x plan would be about 4% over invoice plus any incentives. You can order a car on xplan, you'll get the better of the incentives at time of delivery - either what was in place at time of order or what is current when picked up. The F150s were 6-8 weeks, no clue if the Mustangs are the same.

You can try to dicker with them first to see if they'll beat x plan. I would strongly assume a 13 GT is something dealers won't budge on price so the x plan is likely going to be a better price.

X plan and invoice come out to be the same, as X plan caps some of the doc fee's etc.

From what I remember x plan and invoice after all said and done after all of the fee's care calculated come within $100 of each other.

**2000GT** · 05-30-2012, 07:37 AM

Ron,
My dad was going to use the X plan for his 2013 but he ended up getting a better deal without it so I guess it depends on who you deal with. He bought his at Day Ford in Monroeville.

**yeahloh95** · 05-30-2012, 11:54 AM

i ordered my truck in 99 and got a great deal , i think its all in finding the right dealer ,that way you can get exactly what you want .

**gpfarrell** · 05-30-2012, 01:30 PM

Interesting thread!

With regard to cash, I sold a car one time by going to the buyer's bank and the bank issued me a check from the buyer's account.

I knew it was good funds because the bank handed me the check.

You might be able to go that same route, assuming your buyer has a local account, and then just deposit that check at your bank.

This way, you'd be assured of good funds and you wouldn't run into the $10,000+ cash complications.

The cash rules are really for the drug runners and terrorists, but sometimes we trip over them just tradin' horses!

Interestingly, my f-in-law sold a car for cash one time and was astonished to find out a few of the bills he got were counterfeits!

If you do find a car that's out of town, flying with serious cash is also frowned upon. A substantial wad will trip the metal detectors.

**Seer** · 05-30-2012, 07:39 PM

Originally Posted by 2000GT

Ron,
My dad was going to use the X plan for his 2013 but he ended up getting a better deal without it so I guess it depends on who you deal with. He bought his at Day Ford in Monroeville.

You need to compare drive out costs.

Invoice is a few hundred cheaper than X, but the fee's associated are higher vs. an X plan deal.

when you compare the final costs they are within a few hundred of each other.

**yellowstang03** · 05-30-2012, 10:30 PM

I ordered my 2013 about 6 weeks ago, after all said and done I got it cheaper not going the x plan route. I'm thinking it was around 2-300 difference with all fees and charges added on both sides. Now I'm just waiting for it to get here!

**PaxtonShelby** · 05-30-2012, 10:33 PM

gpf - we're getting closer to trigger-time!!

but I'm not there yet :(

I'm not so worried about the $10k rule pertaining to the sale of the '66 GT. For the '66 I'll probably go the route you mentioned...go to the buyer's bank and get a bank check right there. Counterfeit bills sure would kill the mood!!

I never knew that a wad of cash would trip the metal detectors. I wonder how people handle that problem when they are heading to Vegas??

**PaxtonShelby** · 05-30-2012, 10:34 PM

Originally Posted by yellowstang03

I ordered my 2013 about 6 weeks ago, after all said and done I got it cheaper not going the x plan route. I'm thinking it was around 2-300 difference with all fees and charges added on both sides. Now I'm just waiting for it to get here!

What dealer did you go thru? What exactly did you order? C'mon man, do tell!!

**2000GT** · 05-30-2012, 10:35 PM

Originally Posted by PaxtonShelby

gpf - we're getting closer to trigger-time!!

but I'm not there yet :(

I'm not so worried about the $10k rule pertaining to the sale of the '66 GT. For the '66 I'll probably go the route you mentioned...go to the buyer's bank and get a bank check right there. Counterfeit bills sure would kill the mood!!

I never knew that a wad of cash would trip the metal detectors. I wonder how people handle that problem when they are heading to Vegas??

Are you selling your 66??

**yellowstang03** · 05-30-2012, 10:36 PM

Town and country ford in ligonier, I got the premium in grabber blue and the shaker 1000 stereo no other options, I plan on changing the wheels and suspension very shortly so I figured why spend the extra money to throw it away.

Should be here the week of the 11th I was told...