Vortech input shaft problem

**frankstang** · 08-05-2012, 12:11 PM

I had the bolt break that holds the pulley on. After trying to get it out with an ez out, I'm left with messed up threads.
Anyone think it's possible for a machine shop to redrill and tap the hole ? It would have to be done with the head unit still together. If I take the input shaft out I may as well just buy a new one.

**Tony71502** · 08-05-2012, 12:40 PM

Originally Posted by frankstang

I had the bolt break that holds the pulley on. After trying to get it out with an ez out, I'm left with messed up threads.
Anyone think it's possible for a machine shop to redrill and tap the hole ? It would have to be done with the head unit still together. If I take the input shaft out I may as well just buy a new one.

It's definitely possible. Just realize that you will have to increase the size of the hole, more than likely, another sixteenth inch or another mil or two depending on what kind of threads are there. Then when you have a clean sleeve, it needs tapped. This may require boring out the pulley to work with the increased bolt size.

**venom** · 08-05-2012, 12:50 PM

hardest part is gonna be keeping the unit level and square with the drillpress.. Nothing really good to hold onto.

**Martin0660** · 08-05-2012, 12:55 PM

Is the remnants of the bolt out and just the threads damaged?

If that's the case, it sounds like a good place for a helicoil. Basically the hole will be drilled a little bigger, re tapped to a slightly bigger size ( specific to the helicoil) then the insert is installed. In the end you end up with new threads the same size.

**frankstang** · 08-05-2012, 01:11 PM

I'm not sure if all the bolt material is out or not. I think some of it may be packed into the bottom of the hole.

Does anyone know of any machine shops in the Pittsburgh area that I could talk to about this ?

I thought about a helicoil, but I'm thinking it may spin inside the hole.
BTW, the pulley hole is much bigger than the bolt hole, so there will be no need to modify the pulley.

The pulley slides onto the shaft, then a thick washer covers the hole in the pulley, and a bolt goes through the washer and into the input shaft.

This is a pic from 928 motorsports
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...eals/VHSS2.jpg

**Tony71502** · 08-05-2012, 02:00 PM

I work at a large machining/fab company. Send me a pic. I may be able to have a machinist do it for nearly free.

Hall Industries. "The Problem Solvers"

I live in Sewickley and go to work in Ellwood City. Hall used to be in Southside before they grew too large for their facility.

**Viper_ed** · 08-05-2012, 02:00 PM

I don't think you will find a machinist to attempt it. Like mentioned earlier, there tea lly is no way to properly fixture it without disassembly. Especially for a shaft that is made to rotate in the head unit. It needs to be rock solid to be one properly.

**Tony71502** · 08-05-2012, 02:02 PM

Originally Posted by Viper_ed

I don't think you will find a machinist to attempt it. Like mentioned earlier, there tea lly is no way to properly fixture it without disassembly. Especially for a shaft that is made to rotate in the head unit. It needs to be rock solid to be one properly.

But you may find a Mustang enthusiast like myself that has access to every tool known to man.

**Viper_ed** · 08-05-2012, 02:05 PM

Something spinning at tens of thousands of RPM, just do it right and leave the cultural engineering to the import crowd.

**crazylou** · 08-05-2012, 02:13 PM

Frank go see jake savani in mckeesport and see if he can do anything with it... machinist/engine builder... he is up behind mckeesport high school behind viking lounge at top of hill...

**frankstang** · 08-05-2012, 02:21 PM

I'll get a pic up in a while, my camera is charging at the moment.

Ed, I know what you're saying. It's going to be tough to hold the whole thing still.
I'd really hate to have to rebuild it if it doesn't need it though. Is it even worth spending $300-$400 to rebuild an A trim ?
Probably better off putting that money toward a used S trim.

**frankstang** · 08-05-2012, 02:36 PM

Here's some pics:

**Viper_ed** · 08-05-2012, 02:42 PM

Personally, I would gothe route of a S Trim head unit since they can be found so cheaply now. I picked up a S trim complete kit for $900.

Plus that shaft will hardened which may make any new threads you have cut be more brittle.

**frankstang** · 08-05-2012, 02:55 PM

Originally Posted by Viper_ed

Personally, I would gothe route of a S Trim head unit since they can be found so cheaply now. I picked up a S trim complete kit for $900.

Plus that shaft will hardened which may make any new threads you have cut be more brittle.

I'll probably end up doing that.
I'll hold onto this one and buy a new shaft and rebuild kit one day just because I want to do it. That way I'll have a spare if I ever need it.

**yeahloh95** · 08-05-2012, 03:08 PM

you could send it in and have it upgraded to an s-trim ,i would call vortech for a quote

**SK@StreetLethal** · 08-05-2012, 04:02 PM

As long as the ez out is not buried in there bring it out and I can get the rest of the bolt out.

**silvernotch** · 08-05-2012, 07:12 PM

happened to my kids car too. he had a 10 rib set up and it also f ed up the key way slot get a new shaft or an s trim

**frankstang** · 08-05-2012, 07:42 PM

This sucks because the rest of the blower is in great shape. This is an older unit and there was zero grit or material on the two plug magnets, the gears look great, and the bearings spin freely and quietly.