HELP!!!! Oil pressure problems on the new build!

[wick]

That upper intake manifold seems pretty close, I won't have to take that off a well?

If its that close, just loosen the trans mount and slide it forward. That's easier than pulling an intake.

[OctaneGraphix]

Ok sounds good! And what is an engine bar? How does that work? U mean to lift the motor to get the pan off I take it?

[wick]

Pretty much answered your own question. That's what it is. Rests on the strut tower. Has threaded hooks on each side to raise the engine. Honestly, I always just used a piece of square tubing I have here and made the same thing. Cost me nothing.

[OctaneGraphix]

Ok. Sounds good. Thanks man. And I was talkin to an engine guy, said there might just be a problem with the pickup tube. Either way I gotta drop the pan, and if it lost pressure, I need to replace the main bearings. If I'm there I might as well soothe pump too. What's a good pump to buy?

[PaxtonShelby]

What do you guys think - should he go with a standard volume oil pump? I've heard that the high-volume pumps do more harm than good ( cause leaks / blow-by ).

Also - did you take the time to pre-lube the pump with grease prior to installing?

And get a high-quality hardened oil pump shaft while you get a new pump - super cheap insurance.

[juice_man_86]

Ultimately it's up to him...I like the high volume pumps. If he's not revin high, he prob shouldn't need one. I got mine here http://stores.precisionoilpumps.com/StoreFront.bok

[wick]

I always did a stock pump. Never once had issues. High volume has been known to drain the pan at high RPM.

[TJH64]

Here are a couple things to consider. Did you check for proper clearance from the bottom of the oil pan to the pickup? This is especially true if using an aftermarket deep pan. Starvation could occur if not properly clearanced. Also, check the bolts for the pickup where it connects at the pump. If not torqued properly, it could cause the pump to suck air. Don't ask me how I know about this

[OctaneGraphix]

Ok, so I figured out the problem! The freeze plug on the front of the lifter valley facing the distributor came out. The rest of the motor should be good because it was still getting oil (since this is the end of the oil flow). The motor noise I was hearing was the lifters starving for oil and not "lifting". At least this is a somewhat easy fix... gotta drop the pan (not remove), pull the damper, and remove the timing cover. This will perfectly expose the freeze plug hole. Since the motor is together... I cant really tap the hole and put a screw in type plug... is there a better way to get it to be more secure other than peening it? Like does someone make a sealer/weld that will help hold it in better? I heard this can be a known problem with the 302.... you need to make sure the plug is secured in the hole really well..... Any thoughts?

[SK@StreetLethal]

Peening the edges will help also put a light layer of red loc tite around the plug before you put it in. The real solution is threading the holes in an npt thread and using a pipe plug.

[OctaneGraphix]

Yeah i was talking to a builder and he said the same to tap it and put a pipe plug in it.. however i dont think i can do that with the motor still together... I would get stuff all through it. So I guess I'm stuck with putting a new freeze plug in it. I will do the lock tight and make sure it is peened good.