1965 Mustang questions

[Troll]

This shows up on craigslist today: http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/3597854079.html

I've often thought of getting an older Mustang. Seriously, what kind of things should one "look" for with a first gen. Mustang? I know they rust like crazy, but where and what should I look for. I'm not a welder or body guy, but I can see if there are HOLES in shit and obvious problems.

Give me some ideas.

Thanks.

[Stangman701]

I'd say bottom of the rear quarter panels, rocker panels, and be sure to crawl under to look at the front floorboards. Bottom of the front fenders are a bad spot too, but those shouldn't be too bad to replace if necessary. I've heard the cowl area can be bad too, but i haven't really seen that in person. Maybe take a small magnet with you to check those areas for bondo. You'd probably want one that already has front disc brakes too. A lot still have drums on the front which probably wouldn't be good for spirited back road driving. I helped my dad restore his like 15 years ago so I know a little, but I'm sure there are guys on here that know more than me. IMO that price is a little steep for that one actually. I'd put it in the $8-10K range unless it's nicer that it looks in those pics.

[PaxtonShelby]

They can pretty much rust anywhere - floorpans, cowl, quarters, door bottoms, shock towers, behind front wheel, frame rails, trunk, etc. So you pretty much have to check everywhere - not only for rust, but for poorly or improperly repaired areas. These cars are coming up on 50 years old, so chances are most of them have had some sort of accident or rust damage in the past. Reproduction panels don't always fit the best or have the best body contours.

You definitely want to start with a solid ( either original or properly repaired ) car that costs significantly more, than a cheap car that needs a bunch of sheetmetal repair. In the long run you'll come out ahead.

Many folks take a '64-'66 Mustang that came from the factory with the inline 6 and drop in a V8 of some sort. Problem is, many of those folks don't upgrade from the 6-cylinder 4-lug suspension to the 8-cylinder 5-lug suspension, making the car a death trap with fragile spindles, a weak 7.5" 4-lug rear axle, and inadequate brakes.

Let me know if you find a car that you're seriously considering. I'd be glad to try to come look at it with you or answer any questions you might have. Getting the car up on a lift to inspect is always a big plus. I also know a bunch of folks with these cars, and usually a few of them are for sale. This year the Mustang is the feature car at the Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix - we'll have TONS of them there. It would be a good place to see a lot of them in one place, talk to owners, and figure out exactly what kind of Mustang you really want ( original, restomod, coupe, fastback, convertible, street, drag, track...).

You would have LOVED the '66 GT coupe I sold last year. All original sheetmetal - never a spec of rust anywhere - no accident damage ever - San Jose built car - loaded with options from factory A/C to power steering. The underside was as clean as the top. One restoration back in 1985. She was a beaut! I will miss her, but the new GT isn't going to pay for itself...so she had to go.

Good luck, and again, feel free to let me know if I can help. Always fun helping to spend other folks' money!!

[Troll]

Holy cows... thanks guys. That's a lot of info. Paxton!

I found this on another site: (EDIT --- it's the same car)

65 mustang coupe 289 4 spd, 9 in rear 3.25 gears, ps, disc brakes, new performance suspension, sub frame connectors, 16 in polished torque thrust II 's, nice paint and interior, runs and drives excellent, headturner! 11000 obo, 724-323-3513

$2K less?

[Whats_Missing?]

Holy cows... thanks guys. That's a lot of info. Paxton!

I found this on another site: (EDIT --- it's the same car)

65 mustang coupe 289 4 spd, 9 in rear 3.25 gears, ps, disc brakes, new performance suspension, sub frame connectors, 16 in polished torque thrust II 's, nice paint and interior, runs and drives excellent, headturner! 11000 obo, 724-323-3513

$2K less?

Looks like that ad was from last year - post date is October 2012. Wonder what has been done since then to drive up the price?

[PaxtonShelby]

It all depends on the condition of the car. It could be a $3k car or it could be a $23k car. You can't start to put a number on it until you see it in person and drive it.

At least you know he is considering a lower price - winter weather does that.

Good luck!

[gpfarrell]

The pictures and description make it sound pretty appealing.

The tough part about old Mustangs is they're good looking cars but that doesn't mean they are good cars.

Take it for a drive. How's that 4-speed feel? How much money has been spent on the brakes... double master cylinder yet? Is the new suspension sorted out or does it corner like a shaky step ladder?

How many excuses are you making for the car when you drive it? None? Cool. Lots (might just need tires, needs a little carb work, I can touch that up, etc)... maybe best to move on.

Then get it on a lift. This thing is nearly 50 years old... like Ron says it might be a $3k car or a $23k car! Snow makes them cheaper!

[pop's stang]

I agree with Paxton, you may spend a little more money but its worth it to get a solid car.

[travj31]

This car has been for sale for a good while unless is was bought and is now up for sale again. I'm personally not that into these cars, but I did stop and look at it when it was sitting along side of the road a summer or two ago. I thought it looked decent for the money, but really wasn't that interested in it so I didn't pay that close attention to it. The guy who owned it when I saw it, came from a car family, especially old Fords, and do alot of work themselves. I never talked to the owner when I looked at it so I'm not sure if they did the resto or not? My personal opinion from what I remember is that 8-10k would be a fair price.

[somethingclever]

Older resto is desireable to me - if it was a slap paint over rust job then it would be showing through. If no rust bubbles on an older resto was likely done right.

Assuming the car is solid I dont' think your could build it for much less than 12k.


You know what's nice about classics? If you don't like it a year from now it's still worth what you paid!

[Troll]

Older resto is desireable to me - if it was a slap paint over rust job then it would be showing through. If no rust bubbles on an older resto was likely done right.

Assuming the car is solid I dont' think your could build it for much less than 12k.


You know what's nice about classics? If you don't like it a year from now it's still worth what you paid!

I like these things you say.

I'd hate to ask a guy to take his car for a ride in this weather.

[Darren]

you ever end up checking the car out?

[Troll]

you ever end up checking the car out?

Nah, I gave up tire kickin' for Lent.

It's AC Cobra replica or nothing.

[PaxtonShelby]

Nah, I gave up tire kickin' for Lent.

It's AC Cobra replica or nothing.

Do a Daytona coupe!!!!!!

[map351]

Take a look here I'm doing a rustStang now..
https://picasaweb.google.com/73turbo...68MustangConvt