1997 Ford Mustang GT Premium; Black Exterior, Black Leather Interior, 132k miles, 5-speed, wrecked in drivers side front
Engine:
1.) PI Swap (99+ 4.6) heads and intake done 40k miles ago – heads/intake were off a 2001 GT 35k mile car so the entire top end of the engine has 75k miles.
2.) JLT cold air intake with K&N cone filter
3.) 75mm professional products throttle body
4.) Professional products upper intake plenum
5.) Steeda underdrive pulleys
6.) MSD coil packs and wires
Exhaust:
1.) Off road H-pipe
2.) MIL eliminators for rear O2 sensors
3.) Polished “Quiet” Borla catback exhaust
Drivetrain:
1.) New performance clutch 50k miles ago – RAM HD
2.) MGW short throw performance shifter
3.) Steeda firewall adjuster and clutch cable
Suspension/Brakes:
Complete 2004 Cobra suspension including:
1.) Front lower a-arms, bilstein struts, cut coupe coil springs
2.) 13” Mustang Cobra front brake conversion with braided stainless lines
3.) Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates
4.) Solid steering rack bushings
5.) Steeda strut tower brace – included but not installed
6.) Rear IRS installation with 9/16” front subframe bolts, low profile rear subframe bolts, bilstein dampers, cut coupe coil springs, Steeda IRS differential brace, aluminum front diff bushings, rear 11.65” cobra brakes and vented rotors
Interior:
1.) Pioneer aftermarket head unit with IPOD hookup
2.) Sony speakers in front doors
Exterior/Wheels:
1.) HID kit for headlights
2.) Shorty Antenna
3.) SN95 OEM Cobra Hood
4.) (4) 17x9 Chrome American Racing “Rebel” wheels
New parts within the last 300 miles:
1.) All engine idlers, tensioner, and serpentine belt
2.) Power steering hose from rack to hydroboost manifold
3.) Driver side front wheel bearing (OEM TIMKEN)
4.) Driver side rear wheel bearing (SKF)
What the car will likely need to be put back on the road:
1.) Driver side fender (rust free one comes with car, in black)
2.) Bumper cover and bumper support
3.) Driver side headlight
4.) The front frame rails pulled about ¼”-3/8”
5.) Alignment and PA enhanced inspection (read about it here: http://www.dmv.state.pa.us/inspectio...spection.shtml or http://coxautomotiveco.com/e-inspections/)
I currently have the salvage title in hand, and it will be transferred to the new owner upon purchase. He/she may also have a copy of the insurance retention letter and I will give them a VIN specific bill of sale, although I don’t believe it is required since the title is available. The car has been garage kept since it was hit – and was occasionally garage kept when I was driving it. It is very solid and a great cheap DD. I consistently got 20mpg on my daily commute.
The car was hit at about 20mph a few months back at an intersection. This car is a VERY easy fix – I had planned on doing it myself and driving it for another 50k miles. However, my growing family is making it not practical to own a 2-door daily driver. That is the only reason I am considering selling it. I had one quote of $350-$400 for the frame pull and I honestly think that was high considering the other shops I called to discuss over the phone thought less than that. The hood is easily usable as-is and I am including a fender – I think for $750 or less it can be back on the road.
I think the car has a pretty easy $3500+ in parts if parting it out.
I would like to get $2400 out of it as it sits. Not really interested in parting it myself unless there is enough interest in bigger items like engine/trans/IRS/front brakes…etc. If you are seriously interested in these items please post up.
Car runs and drives, no leaks, airbags did not deploy, starts right up, delivery is possible.
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by 2000GT
Bookmarks