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Thread: Detailing thread

  1. #21
    Slow Vehicles Team SonofaBish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gmkillr View Post
    I just used the Meguires claybar kit on my Z06 and wow...what a difference it made...car is so smooth now! Whats a good swirl mark/fine scratch remover to use and then a good sealant?
    exactly what i noted above... i used exactly the same stuff... Meguiar's ClayBar, then 105 on deeper scratches, 205 on the entire car, and then Chemical Guys JetSeal109....... do all of it with a Porter Cable and it'll probably save you a ton of time.... it'll still take a while, but well worth it..... the more you do it, the better you'll get at it as well... there were some blemishes that i wasn't able to get out last year, but was able to this year, i think just because i know what i'm doing now...
    2015 Corvette Z06
    - Shark Grey / Kalahari
    - bolt-ons, tune, lots of carbon fiber (642/671 rwhp/tq)

  2. #22
    Dudemanbrah krupa35's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zoom50 View Post
    Krupa35- I will give the alcohol a try. Thanks for the tip. I am thinking about giving the Meguiars white wax a try:

    http://www.autoality.com/store/pc/vi...0#.UxNrH_ldX-s
    They sell that at wal-mart. I used it once, i wont ever use it again. Pinnacle Souveran is dope!

    Quote Originally Posted by gmkillr View Post
    I just used the Meguires claybar kit on my Z06 and wow...what a difference it made...car is so smooth now! Whats a good swirl mark/fine scratch remover to use and then a good sealant?
    Ardex #2 High def for the swirls with a DA (or rotary if youre good, 1500 rpms) and then Klasse all-in-one by hand and then Klasse High gloss sealant by hand. Shit will bead for months


    Puck Fennsylvania

  3. #23
    Senior Member Monkeygrits's Avatar
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    This is a very good video that's shows all the steps needed to correct your car. The guy from AutoGeek.Net is an awesome teacher. I watch this video as a refresher. I buy all of my stuff from autoality. Just spent around 175 bucks there with the Detailers club. I'm switching to HD cut and HD polish this year. I also think Menzerna powerlock sealant is the best I've used. It's Sooo slick and almost feels like a shell. Modded mustangs also has a great detailing section where members will help anyone needing advice. They got me started last year.
    Last edited by Monkeygrits; 03-02-2014 at 08:21 PM.

  4. #24
    No Traction due to Paxton PaxtonShelby's Avatar
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    Can you guys post up pics and model numbers of the DA's you use? What will a new one set me back? I just have a big Makita variable speed buffer I've been using.
    2014 GT Premium - Sterling Gray Metallic - MT82 - Track Pack - Glass Roof - Recaro seats - Spoiler delete
    12.76 @ 114.04 bone stock. Koni yellow coil-overs, BMR watts, LCA and LCA relo brackets, Borla S-type axle back.

    1966 Coupe - 331 stroker - Bullet custom roller cam - cam and motor installed and dyno tuned by Rodeheavers Hot Rod - Astro A5 - McLeod RXT - 486 to the wheels - more fun than my little tires can handle

    1966 Oldsmobile Toronado - currently NOT on jackstands

  5. #25
    Senior Member Monkeygrits's Avatar
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    I have the griots garage da. It's a great unit at a great price.

  6. #26
    Dudemanbrah krupa35's Avatar
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    ^I have the same. I can't complain. I use rotary more than DA, though. All wax and sealants are by hand. I throughly enjoy cleaning my car the classic way. Sippin' on some coffee and listening to some trance.


    Puck Fennsylvania

  7. #27
    Slow Vehicles Team SonofaBish's Avatar
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    I have a Porter Cable 7424XP

    I've been tempted to buy a rotary for some tough spots, but the DA has been able to get everything out so far, so there hasnt' been a major need.......
    2015 Corvette Z06
    - Shark Grey / Kalahari
    - bolt-ons, tune, lots of carbon fiber (642/671 rwhp/tq)

  8. #28
    No Traction due to Paxton PaxtonShelby's Avatar
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    Wow Terry - that's quite a video! Watched some last night - will try to watch the rest tonight. I like the idea of a good DA just because of the smaller size ( more maneuverable ) and lighter weight ( easier on the shoulders and back! ). Plus the fact that it is almost impossible to marr the surface with the DA is very appealing. I have never used a clay bar - from the vid it seems I need to start! Can't imagine how long it will take me to do a full detail on the F250!!!

    My '66 could use a wet sanding - I don't think it was ever done. That's a whole other barrel of monkeys right there! I will probably pay to have that done. Maybe after the new motor is in! :-)
    2014 GT Premium - Sterling Gray Metallic - MT82 - Track Pack - Glass Roof - Recaro seats - Spoiler delete
    12.76 @ 114.04 bone stock. Koni yellow coil-overs, BMR watts, LCA and LCA relo brackets, Borla S-type axle back.

    1966 Coupe - 331 stroker - Bullet custom roller cam - cam and motor installed and dyno tuned by Rodeheavers Hot Rod - Astro A5 - McLeod RXT - 486 to the wheels - more fun than my little tires can handle

    1966 Oldsmobile Toronado - currently NOT on jackstands

  9. #29
    Slow Vehicles Team SonofaBish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PaxtonShelby View Post
    Wow Terry - that's quite a video! Watched some last night - will try to watch the rest tonight. I like the idea of a good DA just because of the smaller size ( more maneuverable ) and lighter weight ( easier on the shoulders and back! ). Plus the fact that it is almost impossible to marr the surface with the DA is very appealing. I have never used a clay bar - from the vid it seems I need to start! Can't imagine how long it will take me to do a full detail on the F250!!!

    My '66 could use a wet sanding - I don't think it was ever done. That's a whole other barrel of monkeys right there! I will probably pay to have that done. Maybe after the new motor is in! :-)
    Clay bar definitely makes a huge difference, but it is quite time consuming.... and for anyone out there that has clear bra on their car, keep the clay bar clear! i had to learn my lesson , as the very sharp edge of the clear bra was catching some clay bar and you have to work like hell to get it off without screwing up the clear bra...... (i only have it on my rockers and widebody)....

    If you're interested in getting 90% of the same effect in about 50% of the time, they make a liquid clay bar that works just fine..... i don't think it makes the surface quite as smooth, but its considerably easier and less time consuming.... i used to use it if i had less time to get the job done.
    2015 Corvette Z06
    - Shark Grey / Kalahari
    - bolt-ons, tune, lots of carbon fiber (642/671 rwhp/tq)

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by SonofaBish View Post
    I have a Porter Cable 7424XP

    I've been tempted to buy a rotary for some tough spots, but the DA has been able to get everything out so far, so there hasnt' been a major need.......
    Step up to the Flex.. seems to be what most guys are using these days
    2019 Tesla Model 3 Performance

  11. #31
    Slow Vehicles Team SonofaBish's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SK360 View Post
    Step up to the Flex.. seems to be what most guys are using these days
    Or..... not.... lol

    Been able to get everything out, and I use it once in a blue moon.... pointless waste of money it would be

    Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note II via Tapatalk
    2015 Corvette Z06
    - Shark Grey / Kalahari
    - bolt-ons, tune, lots of carbon fiber (642/671 rwhp/tq)

  12. #32
    Springin' It cLockWise's Avatar
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    I don't have a buffer, so I've only done the clay bar, hand wax, etc. I bought the Meguiars claybar kit as well as their wax (not the fast wax) and it really made a beautiful shine on my car and it was extremely smooth. It kept it extremely clean, however I do keep it covered during the summer as well as in my garage in the winter.


    JLT TRU CAI|ACCUFAB 70MM TB|PP PLENUM|MAGNAFLOW CATTED TRU-X|MAGNAFLOW PERFORMANCE EXHAUST

  13. #33
    I have bad luck. 95V6's Avatar
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    I've got to make my homage out to autoality when spring hits. One of my favorite sprays is the CG V7.
    -Barry
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  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monkeygrits View Post
    This is a very good video that's shows all the steps needed to correct your car. The guy from AutoGeek.Net is an awesome teacher. I watch this video as a refresher. I buy all of my stuff from autoality. Just spent around 175 bucks there with the Detailers club. I'm switching to HD cut and HD polish this year. I also think Menzerna powerlock sealant is the best I've used. It's Sooo slick and almost feels like a shell. Modded mustangs also has a great detailing section where members will help anyone needing advice. They got me started last year.
    That's a long video but I watched it last night. Great info there. Makes you feel like it's not that hard to get professional results. Speaking of detailing, anyone know where Rob has been lately? Haven't seen him post in a while and I miss seeing his bad ass new edge in his sig..

  15. #35
    Senior Member Monkeygrits's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cLockWise View Post
    I don't have a buffer, so I've only done the clay bar, hand wax, etc. I bought the Meguiars claybar kit as well as their wax (not the fast wax) and it really made a beautiful shine on my car and it was extremely smooth. It kept it extremely clean, however I do keep it covered during the summer as well as in my garage in the winter.
    If you get a buffer you will never go back. It really is a night and day difference. I thought my Mach 1 looked good before, but it is amazing now. My dad was skeptical until I was done. Then he wanted his mustang done lol.

  16. #36
    Dudemanbrah krupa35's Avatar
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    You just have to watch what clay you use. There is a huge difference between fine-grade and heavy-grade clay.

    I would use a DA for beginning and then slowly work your way into a nice, lightweight, quiet rotary. If you enjoy it as much as I do, then you should spend some decent pennies on one. Once you get good you can always charge your buddies like $30-50 to do their cars.

    My favorite is interior cleaning though. What products do you guys run on your interior? (carpet, vinyl, leather, rubber, plastic, trim, glass?)


    Puck Fennsylvania

  17. #37
    Senior Member Monkeygrits's Avatar
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    I'm trying Chemical Guys clay block this year. There have been a few guys on modded mustangs who have used it with great results. Plus you can rinse it off if you drop it and to get the contaminants off of it. It also can be used for numerous cars. They said it does not scratch etc. It's only 20 bucks so what the hell.
    http://www.chemicalguys.com/Chemical..._block_kit.htm

  18. #38
    I have bad luck. 95V6's Avatar
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    John4cam, when did you pick up the vette!?!?
    -Barry
    2003 Ford Mustang Dark Shadow Grey 4.6L GT
    2004 Ford F-150 Super Crew Dark Shadow Grey 5.4L

  19. #39
    Springin' It cLockWise's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monkeygrits View Post
    I'm trying Chemical Guys clay block this year. There have been a few guys on modded mustangs who have used it with great results. Plus you can rinse it off if you drop it and to get the contaminants off of it. It also can be used for numerous cars. They said it does not scratch etc. It's only 20 bucks so what the hell.
    http://www.chemicalguys.com/Chemical..._block_kit.htm
    I've heard great things as well about that clay block.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


    JLT TRU CAI|ACCUFAB 70MM TB|PP PLENUM|MAGNAFLOW CATTED TRU-X|MAGNAFLOW PERFORMANCE EXHAUST

  20. #40
    Dudemanbrah krupa35's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monkeygrits View Post
    I'm trying Chemical Guys clay block this year. There have been a few guys on modded mustangs who have used it with great results. Plus you can rinse it off if you drop it and to get the contaminants off of it. It also can be used for numerous cars. They said it does not scratch etc. It's only 20 bucks so what the hell.
    http://www.chemicalguys.com/Chemical..._block_kit.htm

    Wow that's hella nice. I might have to grab a few. Thanks for the link


    Puck Fennsylvania

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