Coyote Stock Block Power Levels

[phillysrt4]

I've done a ton of googling and found a bunch of info dealing with aluminator short blocks or stock short blocks, but nothing on the stock block itself.

I'm trying to plan my "pay to play" route over the next 18 months or so. I'd *like* to crack 1000 at the wheels but I think 800 is going to be far more realistic. As many of you know Ford/FRPP offers two blocks: the standard '13-'14 production block (M-6010-M504V) and their coyote performance aluminum block (M-6010-M50R) which is reinforced in key areas for "high horsepower builds". The thing is everyone has a different definition of "high horsepower" and my google fu has not provided a definitive answer on the realistic limits of the production block.

Is it unrealistic to expect the production block to hold up to 800-1000whp/600-800wtq levels? What sort of power levels/boost pressures mandate the performance block?

Links to references would be appreciated. I didn't find anything definitive.

[RUTHLESS]

Much more to making power and keeping the car reliable at those power levels then the block.

[no1sirbutler]

Ken Bjonnes just blew his stock block/built auto TT car that ran several 9 sec passes. He works for Lund Racing and is the other tuner besides John. He has had this car for a couple years and daily drove it quite a bit. So I would say you power level is sustainable going by Ken

[phillysrt4]

Much more to making power and keeping the car reliable at those power levels then the block.

agreed, but I don't want to the block to be a weak link after spending good money for forged internals and a billet oil accessories.

[phillysrt4]

Ken Bjonnes just blew his stock block/built auto TT car that ran several 9 sec passes. He works for Lund Racing and is the other tuner besides John. He has had this car for a couple years and daily drove it quite a bit. So I would say you power level is sustainable going by Ken

Good to know. Thanks!

[no1sirbutler]

agreed, but I don't want to the block to be a weak link after spending good money for forged internals and a billet oil accessories.

Oh you a stock bare block......if you are buying forged internals you will be good to go well past your goal. Kens detroyed a piston which took out the block. His was a completely stock block including internals

[cam303]

Sleeve the block then no worries.

[phillysrt4]

Oh you a stock bare block......if you are buying forged internals you will be good to go well past your goal. Kens detroyed a piston which took out the block. His was a completely stock block including internals

Yes just the bare block itself, not the rotating assembly.

Sleeve the block then no worries.

doesn't it come with some kind of sleeve from the factory?

[juice_man_86]

Talk to Tim at Rodeheaver 's Hotrod. There's a 14 down there right now. He built it. It's got a Hellion twin turbo kit making north of 800 rwhp. Not sure, but they may be shooting for more.

[Rodeheaver's]

So far we have made 800 wheel with a stick block coyote. Not stock Pistons orchids but stock block n crank. The clutch could not hold it so we just got done putting a stronger clutch in the car but have to break it in yet.

[RUTHLESS]

doesn't it come with some kind of sleeve from the factory?

The factory applies a coating but its not a pressed in sleeve. The big boys use iron sleeves to add strength. It's recommended when you go over 1000hp.

[phillysrt4]

The factory applies a coating but its not a pressed in sleeve.

Are you sure? Now Im really confused...

http://www.americanmuscle.com/frpp-a...tblock-13.html

Features

Coyote 5.0L block (302 cubic inches)
Low pressure cast 319 aluminum
92.2 mm bore size
Thicker main webs for added strength
Cross-bolted nodular iron main bearing caps
Pressed in iron cylinder sleeve, is not machined for piston oil squirters
Ford Racing part# M-6010-M504V
2013-2014 5.0L production block

[Seer]

The production 2011-2015 block is good for about 1000hp, the FRPP Sportsman coyote block can make much much higher. The production 2011-2014 short block can safely make into the 700s before getting on borrowed time. The 2015 shares a similar bottom end with the Boss 302 and has shown to make into the 800s safely. Upgrading the oil pump gear to a billet setup is always a great mod to do, and greatly increases it's life span while under forced induction.

[phillysrt4]

thanks for the input everyone. This helped me allocate funds where I think they will do the most good for the power levels I want to attain.