Slowsix's project 3pointh8

[SlowSix]

You're welcome to borrow my engine crane. I'm in Moon - it does not fold up so you'd need a truck. Let me know bud!

I actually live in South Carolina now so I don't think that will work.

I ordered one from harbor freight's website. They will ship an entire shop crane, in a box, that weighs 160 lbs, to your door, for $21.
I feel bad for our UPS guy.

[PaxtonShelby]

Haha ok - then change your dang info! Says Greensburg! Any HF stores in your area? Have one 5 miles from me - They usually have cranes in stock.

I bought mine online way before they had stores in my area. They shipped the wrong ram cylinder TWICE before I got the right one. I hope your luck is better!

[Martin0660]

I cant see clearly in your picture, but it looks like it's showing that white corrugated hose out of the fuel pump ... I would look at that close in a boosted application.

[SlowSix]

Haha ok - then change your dang info! Says Greensburg! Any HF stores in your area? Have one 5 miles from me - They usually have cranes in stock.

I bought mine online way before they had stores in my area. They shipped the wrong ram cylinder TWICE before I got the right one. I hope your luck is better!

There is one near here, I went to pick one up yesterday. They told me they were out of stock, truck comes on Friday. I won't be around this weekend so I just ordered one.

I cant see clearly in your picture, but it looks like it's showing that white corrugated hose out of the fuel pump ... I would look at that close in a boosted application.

It is. It came from DW that way. It has some sort of glue to keep the hose on the pump outlet. The other end of it, that connects to the Y block on the hat, actually is rubber submersible hose.
Why do you say that ? See them break or what ?
I actually had some issues when I had a division X 340 in my current tank setup, it kept blowing the line off the pump. But this was a rubber line with hose clamps. Actually switched to a dw340 single pump with the corrugated hose and it worked much better.

[SlowSix]

Couple more parts showed up.
Discovered my upper control arm bushings were destroyed. Time for some new ones.
Got a set of J&M double adjustables from LMR on Cyber Monday. I'm curious as to how these work. Maximum Motorsports actually recommends using stock arms with rubber bushings in the uppers to prevent suspension bind and snap oversteer with handling.
I didn't want to do that as I'd imagine I'd end up ruining the uppers or just not being able to hook.
These uppers I have an interesting design. The bushing is 3 piece. The center is a hard "polyball". And the outer parts are a semi soft (elastomer I think). Supposed to allow suspension articulation without compromising straight line performance. Interested to see what I think of them on the car.
At the very least, the arms themselves are SUPER beefy. Very thick metal and good welds.




I also picked up a small fire extinguisher. Not sure where I will mount it yet. I'm open to suggestions. If I had a roll bar is just do that but I don't at the moment. Not sure if I want to put a cage in the car or not since it mostly sees street time.
I don't really want to drill into the floor to mount it if I don't have to.

[Martin0660]

On the hose, no experience other than seeing it, handling it, and questioning if it could handle boosted fuel pressure (45 base plus 35# = 80#). Scared me enough to not use it.

On those upper arms, I have a set a QA1 uppers with a ball type joint on the chassis side. Twice now I have pulled one of them apart. I sent it back once, they claimed nothing wrong, been on my list to send them back again so I can sell them.

On the fire extinguisher mount, I cant direct link but scroll down on this page about half way. A buddy of mine Jason Franklin makes them but not only sells through Stinger:
http://www.stinger-performance.com/universalparts.html

Personally I have mine mounted to the tunnel since I'm carrying it, want to reach it if needed.

[SlowSix]

On the hose, no experience other than seeing it, handling it, and questioning if it could handle boosted fuel pressure (45 base plus 35# = 80#). Scared me enough to not use it.

On those upper arms, I have a set a QA1 uppers with a ball type joint on the chassis side. Twice now I have pulled one of them apart. I sent it back once, they claimed nothing wrong, been on my list to send them back again so I can sell them.

On the fire extinguisher mount, I cant direct link but scroll down on this page about half way. A buddy of mine Jason Franklin makes them but not only sells through Stinger:
http://www.stinger-performance.com/universalparts.html

Personally I have mine mounted to the tunnel since I'm carrying it, want to reach it if needed.

I'll see how the upper arms do. The qa1 looks like a bit different design.
As far as the extinguisher, I actually thought about mounting it to the seat in the front. That may actually be a decent solution

[Monkeygrits]

I'll see how the upper arms do. The qa1 looks like a bit different design.
As far as the extinguisher, I actually thought about mounting it to the seat in the front. That may actually be a decent solution

I thought the other issue with running a more solid upper was the boxes taking more abuse. Did you have yours welded? I talked to Tim about doing mine but life happens and my car sits more than I drive it now.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[SlowSix]

I thought the other issue with running a more solid upper was the boxes taking more abuse. Did you have yours welded? I talked to Tim about doing mine but life happens and my car sits more than I drive it now.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

You are correct. Hard launches on slicks can potentially tear the torque boxes up.
I'm considering getting some reinforcement plates to put in.
I had poly bushed arms on the body side, and rubber on the axle side. No damage.
I think these j&m may be okay, the outer bushings aren't very hard.

The lowers I have are maximum Motorsports heavy duty. They're poly on the body side, spherical on the axle side I believe. May be other way around.

[SlowSix]

Well, another update. Motor is supposedly very close. Whatever that means in machine shop language - probably another month lol.

Anywho, I got the old motor out finally.

Getting ready - harbor freight engine crane, and in the box is a harbor freight engine stand. Because harbor freight


And it is out! actually went pretty well. The load leveler was really helpful


I should have taken the bell housing off before I took the motor out, but oh well.


My engine bay is a hot mess - both dirty, and has wiring everywhere. I'm actually in the process of cleaning it, and doing a very mild wire tuck (essentially just hiding some things that are easily re-routed).




On another note, I decided I'm going to powder coat some things. The local coater told me that he has a minimum price amount - therefore to bring a bunch of stuff. I wasn't planning to powdercoat the alternator/ power steering pump bracket, but figured why not.
Kind of regretted that decision - I had a hell of time getting the damn pulley off. As you can see I was using a breaker bar, and the end of my jack handle on a wrench to get this damn thing off.


And I ended up getting the adapter for the rent-a-tool from Advance stuck in the damn PS pump shaft. SMH. Had to go buy a better pair of vice grips to get the damn thing out.


On another note, I got a new water pump for the new motor. Decided to pain it semi-flat black, since basically everything in the engine bay is going to be black.


For my new crank case setup, I had planned on welding some -10 AN bungs onto these valve covers. Had a local shop try to tig them for me, and tell me that he couldn't do it. Not sure what these are made out of. My engine builder also told me you can't weld them when I asked after the fact


You can see here, he started to blow through the metal


More updates will be coming soon - I am in the process of giving the engine bay a serious scrubbing, dropping a bunch of stuff off to the powder coater, and I eventually will be tearing the old motor down.
It looks like I spun a main bearing, the cylinder walls, pistons, and rods all look fine, but motor is totally locked, and the oil pan and bottom end definitely have some metal shavings in them.

[SlowSix]

Engine builder sent me some pics of the heads. Yeah buddy.
These are stock Ford cast heads opened up a bunch with valve jobs and such.
He is going on vacation for a week, said the motor should be done when he comes back, basically just has to put the heads on.

[PaxtonShelby]

Giddy up!!

[somethingclever]

I would ask him to send port work pics.

[SlowSix]

I would ask him to send port work pics.

I gave them to him already ported

[SlowSix]

Engine builder sent me some flow #'s on the heads. First pic is a Google result of stock 99-04 split port heads in the second column. Not sure how super accurate those are.



This pic is a comparison of my head's, with a set of Super Six Motorsports(probably the most recognized name in v6 ford stuff) Stage 3+ heads (which are about $2500 I want to say )

Second set of numbers are my $500 heads lol. Pretty comparable numbers. Better gains at lower lift.
Engine builder said overall he likes my head's better

[SlowSix]

[Ares]

Hmm an engine bigger than Bob's!

[SlowSix]

Hmm an engine bigger than Bob's!

Slightly more holes than Bob's, but still not enough

[SlowSix]

Making slow progress. I actually had to tear down the old motor to get it off my engine stand for the new one.
Carnage pics !
This is one of the main bearings. Woops.



And just one of the rod bearings. There were a couple that looked like this.


And a couple pics of the new motor. It actually took me awhile to tear down the old one, get this one out of the crate, and onto the engine stand.
I installed the water pump tonight. Next will be bell housing dowels, lower intake, and headers.

[SlowSix]

Well.
Getting closer, but have ran into issues, as always happens with this type of stuff.

Something is up with my headers. Not sure if the tubes are a bit warped, or what. But the bolt holes weren't really lining up with the heads.
And something from the new motor - the arp head studs stick up from the heads more than bolts, causing the bottom of the header flanges to hit and not sit down far enough.

Cue the angle grinder, Dremel, and drill.
I actually had to go out and buy a corded drill since I didn't have one, and some Cobalt metal cutting bits.
Probably 10 hours later, I grinded the shit out of the flanges, drilled out 22 out of 24 bolt holes, and they fit.


Got the motor off the stand to the hoist, and installed the clutch and flywheel.
Spec billet steel flywheel, ram power grip HD clutch. The spec flywheel accepts both a 10.5" and 11" diameter clutch.
The v6 originally has a 11" clutch - which is all well and fine, until you realize that a 11" clutch to hold 600 hp is about $500 - and a 10.5" is about $300 due to being more common.
More on the clutch stuff here in a bit.

Got the motor in the car Friday night.


Resting in it's new home. Engine harness is laying all over the place.


And here is where I've stalled.
I've been attempting to get the transmission in since Saturday afternoon.
Can't figure out why I can't get it in aside from just not getting the right angle.
Clutch disc alignment tool fits fine.
Actually went to harbor freight and bought a transmission jack so I didn't have to lift it up - well that didn't help much.
Using the transmission jack doesn't allow the right alignment. If I raise the motor level and pump the jack up, the shifter mount hits the floor board before I can slide the trans in the right place, and then the jack ends up being in the way of my ability to lift the trans up a bit and wiggle it around.

T5 is about 100 pounds, but I'm having too much trouble lifting it up off of my chest and sliding it in myself.
Since I moved to SC last year I don't really have any automotive friends down here to lend a hand.
So I have stalled at this point.
I can get the trans about this close - which looks to be that I'm getting it through the throw out bearing, maybe even partially into the clutch disc - but not into the pilot bearing.


I've tried about everything, raising the motor, lowering the motor, took the bell housing off and realigned the clutch disc, even tried having my GF pry the clutch fork with a pry bar to see if I could get it to seat.
Nothing.

Going to try again tonight most likely but I'm officially incredibly sore.
I may try again tonight for a bit, if I can't get it in still I may do a few other things that need done so I'm not wasting all my time.
The trans is stalling my progress though, I need to get that in before I can start putting accessory brackets back on the motor and putting the turbo kit back together.