Slowsix's project 3pointh8

[Stangman701]

From what you're describing, it sounds like you need to tilt the motor back further. If you put a jack under the front pulley you should be able to get it to tilt toward the rear enough so that the shifter won't hit the floorboard. You may need a piece of wood or something so your jack has enough reach to hit the pulley

[PaxtonShelby]

I agree with the above. Make sure the motor mounts are not bolted to the car and see if you can tweak the engine angle a little. Shit like this always happens to me. 5 minute jobs take 3 days...

[SlowSix]

I actually unbolted the motor mounts last night, I have someone coming over to try to lend a hand tonight and see if we can get this days thing in.
Will report back later lol

[SlowSix]

Well someone came to give me a hand and trans is in. Got the starter on and a couple other things done. Going to get the driveshaft, safety loop, and shifter back in tomorrow.
Then on to putting power steering and ac brackets back on

[SlowSix]

Getting close to finished, hoping to fire it up on Sunday.
Fuel Injector Development 1000cc injectors


New wastegate spring. Old one on the right was a 7 psi spring. New one is 10 I believe.


Re wrapped my crossover pipe in some of the non fiberglass stuff.


Turbo kit in the car finally. This thing is a pain in the ass to install.


I also got two of my intercooler/ cold side pipes cut to fit, I reworked a couple things to make them fit better. The turbo outlet is 2.5", and I used to have a 2.5 to 3" coupler off of the turbo. It didn't fit too well. So I went down to a 2.5" coupler and pipe until it goes past the frame rail, and then it is 3" all the rest of the way.

All that is left to do now is -
Finish installing clutch cable (more on that later)
Final mounting of all the cold side.
Plug all my sensors in.
Wire a FireWire to data log my wideband sensor
Install the new FPDM and upgraded power relay
Install upper and lower rear torque box re inforcements and new upper control arms
Fluids
Prime the motor
Start it and check for leaks

After that I'll just have to put the bumper and hood back on, and probably give it a really good wash lol

[Martin0660]

Getting there, I installed my clutch cable last night ;)

i need that wash / wax terribly.

I dont think you are hurting anything with the 2 1/2” pipe, all my charge pipes are 2 1/2”

I have “all the springs” in my gate, 3 of them, step it up

[SlowSix]

Getting there, I installed my clutch cable last night ;)

i need that wash / wax terribly.

I dont think you are hurting anything with the 2 1/2” pipe, all my charge pipes are 2 1/2”

I have “all the springs” in my gate, 3 of them, step it up

Yeah I'm not worried about any loss with one 6" section of 2.5" pipe compared to 3" lol. It is 3" the whole rest of the way.
Definitely don't need two springs, my boost controller should be able to take it to 17-18 psi that I'm planning on running.

[Martin0660]

FWIW, check the test sheet on your FID injectors. They are usually rated to flow at 45# base pressure. I'm not sure how the V6 stuff is set up, but a lot of Ford is built around 39# base fuel pressure.

[SlowSix]

FWIW, check the test sheet on your FID injectors. They are usually rated to flow at 45# base pressure. I'm not sure how the V6 stuff is set up, but a lot of Ford is built around 39# base fuel pressure.

I'll have to look at the flow sheet.
Base pressure is 40 on the v6.

1000cc is more injector than I need to be honest. Probably could have got away with 60# ones.

[Martin0660]

Again, not sure how you enter the size into your EMS, but with mine it’s done with a calculation.

it was easier for me to adjust my base to 45 psi then use 1300 cc than it was to scale 1300 cc to 40 psi for me.

when I swapped them in, no changes was needed to my tune because it knew the change correctly. If I would of used 1300 cc at 40# it would of needed tuned across the map. My tune was good right up until it ran out of injector.

either way, it’s just a heads up

[SlowSix]

Again, not sure how you enter the size into your EMS, but with mine it’s done with a calculation.

it was easier for me to adjust my base to 45 psi then use 1300 cc than it was to scale 1300 cc to 40 psi for me.

when I swapped them in, no changes was needed to my tune because it knew the change correctly. If I would of used 1300 cc at 40# it would of needed tuned across the map. My tune was good right up until it ran out of injector.

either way, it’s just a heads up

I'd have to talk to Tim. He sent me a base tune for the car. I had FID sound me the data values he needed, which is basically just a bunch of tables of muktupliers.
I don't know how that figures into the tuning process, I've never used the SCT tuning software

[SlowSix]

Well I was hoping to start it today. Close but no cigar.

Melted my clutch cable a bit since it runs by my header. I wrapped the new one in a DEI "heat shield". We will see if that helps.


Installed black306 modified FPDM and upgraded power wire to run the twin 340 pumps




My valve cover had a pin hole in it and I had to swap it - not sure what rockers these are. Not factory though.

At some point I decided I was going to buy torque box reinforcements. This is part of what has been taking me so long. I would definitely pay someone to do this if I ever had to do it again. What a PITA
one lower in.



And finally - another reason thing that was been taking me forever.
This was my old upper control arm bushing. Totally destroyed.


I bought double adjustable uppers. Played around with them for quite awhile trying to set pinion angle. Decided I was doing something wrong.
Ended up setting them both to the same length as the old ones and forgetting it for now.
The car is on stands, but with the rear end jacked up to load the suspension only way I get a - pinion angle is if I shorten both arms the whole way. Now my car is pretty low but that didn't seem right.

Anyway - what's left -
Passenger side lower torque box reinforcement still needs done
Change a little piece on my passenger coilover that is bent.
Put exhaust back on
Spark plugs and wires
Run lines for my new catch can
Wire my wideband to datalog
Put fluids in the car
Prime oil pump
Start it

Eventually I need to put my back seat back in the car but I'm thinking I'm going to have to either trim these bolts, or notch the seat bracket some.
The upper box reinforcement bolts look like they will be in the way.

[Ares]

Hmm never heard of that FPDM. Might have to look into it.

[SlowSix]

Hmm never heard of that FPDM. Might have to look into it.

Yeah if you google black 306 it pops up. I went this route vs having to run twin fpdm and do a bunch of wiring. He told me it would run twin 340s without issue.
We will see. Guy that does them is super helpful as well

[Martin0660]

Poly bushings are only going to last a certain time if your putting power through them ... Either plan a replacement cycle or plan to go to solid stuff.

On your pinion angle, stop thinking pinion only, and start thinking driveline angles. I would suggest downloading the Tremec app. It has a nifty drive line angle finder in it that works well using your smart phone. It will tell you if your good or not.

I have always had to cut the adjuster sleeves on DA uppers on mine to get enough pinion angle. Always chalked it up to how beat up my torque boxes are (repaired several times). The set of arms I have now are from UMI and have a shorter hex stock adjuster in the middle so I have lots of adjustment.

Regardless of pain, do the torque box kits. They should of come on these cars factory. Someday, I'm going to have to cut all mine out and put in new replacements. Car is square right now, but once I got the boxes solid I've started breaking bolts. It's ridiculous to deal with, short term pain for long term peace of mind.

[SlowSix]

Poly bushings are only going to last a certain time if your putting power through them ... Either plan a replacement cycle or plan to go to solid stuff.

On your pinion angle, stop thinking pinion only, and start thinking driveline angles. I would suggest downloading the Tremec app. It has a nifty drive line angle finder in it that works well using your smart phone. It will tell you if your good or not.

I have always had to cut the adjuster sleeves on DA uppers on mine to get enough pinion angle. Always chalked it up to how beat up my torque boxes are (repaired several times). The set of arms I have now are from UMI and have a shorter hex stock adjuster in the middle so I have lots of adjustment.

Regardless of pain, do the torque box kits. They should of come on these cars factory. Someday, I'm going to have to cut all mine out and put in new replacements. Car is square right now, but once I got the boxes solid I've started breaking bolts. It's ridiculous to deal with, short term pain for long term peace of mind.

Honestly I eventually think I'm going to end up doing a torque arm and getting rid of this 4 link garbage.
I finished installing the torque box plates last night. Def a pain in the ass. The 99-04 torque boxes seem to be a bit sturdier than the fox stuff.
Feel weird cutting up some of sheet metal to put the lower boxes in.
I'll have to check that app out, I might end up messing with the angle stuff again.

Do you adjust your arms with them both fully installed still?
I saw some people saying it is easiest to adjust with one on and the other disconnected from the rear end.

[Ares]

I never put reinforcements in lower torque boxes. I just welded up all the seams.

[Martin0660]

I have a long process for adjusting rear arms. Probably over complicated but hang strings from the fender lips to beep the rear centered, check off the crank pulley for reference to pinion angle, etc. there are 2 camps on pinion angle, one that you are just trying to keep driveline angles under power (bushing flex), the other camp feels it has an effect on traction ... I’m in the latter, but run a pinion angle like a leaf spring car, lol

A good friend of mine runs a torque arm, he loves it, I stroke him about it all the time (you’ve probably seen it with Swanny on FB). He will tell you it works great up to a certain power level, he crossed that and now it’s a liability (he has the HD version)

[SlowSix]

I'm not sure what the limit on the torque arm is, I think 600 they say they rate arm for.

[SlowSix]

Well, it runs.
Have been fighting it since it has been finished. Got a base tune, couldn't keep the car running, discovered that it had a bad MAF adapter harness after noticing that it did not have any MAF counts while data logging.
Had to order a new one and wait for that.





my crazy looking catch can setup


Gave it a wash, it was covered in dust and grease