Truck lowering question

[Dan B.]

I plan on dropping the Ranger a couple inches all the way around this winter. I have a S-10 rear leaf set up on the truck to take advantage of the mounting points....they are under the frame vs outside the frame like a typical Ford. I can tuck a much wider wheel without bed side and leaf spring clearance issues. This also allows me to use any S-10 rear suspension components. My main issue is not how to lower it, but the safety of it. The truck currently sets on 1.25" homemade lowering blocks. With the bottom leaf plate/shock mount and traction bar bolted together they set slightly lower than the bottom of the wheel. My concern is that should I ever get flat, the truck will be riding on the traction bar instead of the rim. If I go lower (I'd like another 2.5") the problem would be worse. Is this an issue? Or do the "lowering block" guys do this all the time?

I can make another set of blocks so the cost of virtually nothing and two hours of time. The expensive way is to go four link and coil overs. This would run around $1,400....not in the Ranger budget....and take much longer. I also like that the current set up is simple and just plain works.

Below is a pic of the current components.

IMG_2184.jpg

[yeahloh95]

if i am thinking right a bigger block just moves the rear up into the trucj and the relationship of the traction bars to the ground will stay the same .or you can go to a set up like cal tracs ???

[Dan B.]

The block pushes the springs lower and brings to truck down over the tires.

[Tom]

My concern is that should I ever get flat, the truck will be riding on the traction bar instead of the rim

Do you ever drive it on the street? I don't know if I would be comfortable with that.

[Dan B.]

That's the issue. I drive it all the time. The truck isn't very low at all. Sits like a normal 2wd.

[Tom]

How far off is it, if you switched to 18" street wheels would the wheel be big enough to take the impact?

[Dan B.]

Probably but I'd go with a four bar/coil overs before switching to 18" wheels.

[Mark Aubele]

I wouldn't feel comfortable with blocks at your power level on sticky tires.

[Tom]

Probably but I'd go with a four bar/coil overs before switching to 18" wheels.

Thats true, it would probably be cheaper to switch the suspension then to buy wheels and good tires.

[PaxtonShelby]

I wouldn't feel comfortable with blocks at your power level on sticky tires.

Good point Mark - wheel spacers....spring spacers....all leave the window open for some sort of torque-related carnage.

[turbo83coupe]

I wouldn't feel comfortable with blocks at your power level on sticky tires.

i totally agree with this!!

My Ranger is dropped 9.5" in the back and I have been wanting to put a 2" block in the back to replace the 1" block for another inch of drop but even in scarred on a 2.5 NA truck lol

I guess the real question is, how low do you want to go? There's a million ways to go about this. You could probably do it and completely remove the block depending on things...

[Dan B.]

Frank.

I want to put some 3" DJM's in the front and then just level the rear. This is just for a little more of tucked "pro street" look in the rear.

[Dan B.]

Like this. W/o the gay stack...or being a Chevy. I do secretly like the square body s10 though.

[George C]

What are the attachment points look like

[Dan B.]

What are the attachment points look like

Not mine, but this is a typical first/second gen ranger frame.

image.jpg

This is is mine with 275/60's on 10" wheels. I'm now running 325/50-15 on 10" wheels.

image.jpg

I reengineered the slappers to mount with the lower leaf mount since the above pic. They are just like the opening post pic.

image.jpg

Rangers have a pretty stout frame and good metal to work with.

[George C]

As a truck guy i would not use blocks with any kind of power

Also your setup may allow for wider tires but screws ya for height

Seems like grab a welder and relocate leafs to inside of frame rails will allow you any height you need


Also a 325 should be on a much wider wheel then 10"

You could get away with a 275 pro radial and hook like a boss

[PaxtonShelby]

I was wondering about moving the mounts to the inside of the rails, but wondered if that would adversely affect the handling. I know Dan isn't autocrossing the Ranger, but it spends a lot of time boogeying around his mountain.

Something tells me Dan really likes the look of the wide tires from behind. Insert tasteless joke here...

[Dan B.]

George. The 325's are staying. Maybe even on a wider wheel!

so....move the springs inboard. Hadn't thought of that. Should I raise the mounting locations on the inside of the frame? I'm guessing that's the whole point of moving th inside. That's going to screw my exhaust from the cab back. But that's no big deal.

[George C]

Exhaust is easy changable

Id use hangers for front and make leaf sliders for rear, youll need to plate the frame but will make it stout


Also assuming 325 normal tires?
What is reason for that tire? Looks?

Im used to having a tire that works for you for power and theres some 1500 hp cars in this area getting down on a 275pro radial

[95V6]

I go coil overs. In the end having the adjustability and being able to fine tune it are worth it to me. I'm sure you could piece something together and home brew the fab work for less that 1,400 as you mentioned. I like being able to get my ride height exactly where I want it.