sutyak's turbo 2004 Mach 1 build thread

[George C]

If you have original pinion shim at all. Start with it first. I have found it is nearly always the right one. This has worked on my Mustang with three different gear sets and on my Ram front and rear. Also if not using a solid spacer and shims for crush sleeve. Try the Ratech Smart Sleeves. Tried them on my Ram and far, FAR easier to set by hand compared to a normal crush sleeve.

Ive done quite a bit of gear swaps in my vehicles and as you stated factory pinion shim has been right on

[sutyak]

Thanks for all the info. I'll certainly try the stock shim first.

[somethingclever]

So long as they are frpp gears.

To be honest the pinion depth tools have really come down in price....might be worthwhile to pick one up just to save the time on the honed pinion brg route. (I do the same)

[somethingclever]

So long as they are frpp gears.

To be honest the pinion depth tools have really come down in price....might be worthwhile to pick one up just to save the time on the honed pinion brg route. (I do the same)

I would second the solid sleeve for a stick drag setup.

[George C]

Ive went from motive to GM gears with no issues using oem pinion shim

Even on my front pig using USA gear i had luck with oem shim

[sutyak]

The Precision Gear 4.10's are in. Backlash is set at .011". Pinion shim is .02" (stock was .03"). Pinion bearing preload is 21 lb-in.
Certainly a manageable job on jack stands, but I would have much rather had the car on a lift. I'm mid way through changing the axle seals and bearings. The auto parts store didn't have two in stock, but I did go ahead and rent the slide hammer and axle seal pullers. Removing the bearings is a breeze with that slide hammer. I was in for a surprise when I saw how much sludge was in the axle tubes. I swore some of it was black RTV given the thickness, but it was just clumped gear oil. Tubes are nice and clean now.
Overall the install wasn't terribly difficult, but much more time consuming than I anticipated with the repeated assembly and disassembly of parts. Tightening the pinion nut was tedious, and took some serious muscle.
This job was the perfect excuse to finally buy a 20 ton floor press!





My pinion flange rig.




Done.


I had a 1.75" ID exhaust pipe that worked perfectly to press on the pinion bearing. Must have been left over from a wastegate pipe.


Fun pic of the crank looking through the rear housing after installing new races.

[George C]

Impact makes pinion nut go alot faster

[sutyak]

Impact makes pinion nut go alot faster

I know it would have, but also didn't want to risk over-crushing the crush sleeve. At any rate I got my workout in today.

[George C]

Im sure you did crushing that sleeve is a chore for some impacts....mine is various torque so i creep up on it

[sutyak]

Still making progress little by little. I lost one of the bell housing pins so I had to order more. I decided I'll weld the pins to the bell after alignment rather than use offset pins that I'll have to realign every time I do a clutch change.

Roll bar is completely installed. In hindsight I'm not sure why I put the effort into color matching the roll bar when most of it will get covered in foam.

[Dickbag 5.h0]

Attention to detail

[pwtmxracing]

Looks great

[sutyak]

Thanks guys. I also ordered a set of black leather + black microsuede Corbeau GTS II seats. I've been wavering whether or not to restore my worn out factory seats or going aftermarket (again). Since I liked the A4's I decided to go with the GTS II (no unnecessary shoulder bolsters) to fit the roll bar. More pics when they arrive.

[PaxtonShelby]

Those are sharp Mark. Can't wait to see it in October.

[Martin0660]

You won't need to index it each time you take it off. The bell should fit tight on the pins and go back to the same place every time unless something drastic happens. Mine has been done for 4 years, likely off and on 7-10 times, and I just checked it a month ago and it was still dead on

[sutyak]

Seats arrived today and they are fantastic. I can't wait to get them in the car.
I've been working on getting the bell housing aligned. It was pretty far off. First I tried modifying some stock dowels, but that didn't work so well. I then bought a set of offset dowels for a GM, which are .006" smaller in diameter with a .014" offset, but actually ended up dialing in the perfect adjustment to center the bell. Now I need to make a way to secure the dowels so they stay put since they don't press-fit. I went with the GM dowels because I couldn't find any for the mod motor. Once I'm 100% satisfied they work I'll let everyone know.








The magnetic base on my cheap dial indicator isn't strong enough to stick to the flywheel bolts (aluminum flywheel), so I had to improvise.
A better dial indicator with an articulating arm would have been much easier, but this worked.



Driveshaft loop is also installed.

[somethingclever]

How fAr off was it?

What did it end up at?

Maybe get a set of dowels made that are slight press fit with the same offset since u know what works.

Is there a sub belt provision in the seats?

[sutyak]

How fAr off was it?

What did it end up at?

Maybe get a set of dowels made that are slight press fit with the same offset since u know what works.

Is there a sub belt provision in the seats?

Bell was about 15 thousandths off. Max is supposed to be 5 thousandths. I agree I could have some dowels made. If for any reason these don't work I'll definitely have my buddy make me some.
No sub belt provision, but that is an option.

[Martin0660]

Glad you checked it, it's worth the effort. You are right it's easier with arms, here is my set up ...

[sutyak]

That's the same dial indicator I have. Now I feel dumb for not trying to put it on before I put the bell on. That and I didn't realize that side of the magnet worked! I thought only the bottom of the magnetic base was magnetic.