sutyak's turbo 2004 Mach 1 build thread

[TooFast98Cobra]

That's what TheDak uses, right Bill?

No he says just rub a lil scotch on it

[sutyak]

Took the Mach to church yesterday. Lubing the front control arm bushings made a world of difference in ride, handling, and noise. Zero squeaks from the front now. I do have a rattle in the rear I need to investigate. I think it is one of the spherical bushings possibly not tight enough. I didn't completely fix the lean tip-in issue, so that is also on my agenda after work today.

[sutyak]

Tune is basically lined out. If you have the SCT Pro Racer Package then you know your tune is never completely done since you can't stop playing with it. I'm sure it was good when it left Rev Auto, but who knows what the guy before me changed after he left. The lean tip in is completely gone, and I fattened up the WOT since it was a bit lean. General drivability is much better.
The aluminum Moroso coolant tank is in. Definitely one of the easiest parts I've ever changed on a car. It's a beautiful piece! I almost went with an ebay knock-off, but bit the bullet and spent a few more dollars and I'm glad I did.
I've had to do a significant amount of cleaning on this car. I have no idea how this guy got dirt where there is!





The tank touches the turbo blanket, but not too bad.






I also bought a set of Strange 10-way adjustable struts and 160# coilover springs from Aldan America. I'll swap those on before going to the track next month.
The car currently has 250# springs with what appear may be stock struts. Not so ideal for the track.

[somethingclever]

Can you add a 1/4" spacer under the tank mounting tabs?

[sutyak]

Can you add a 1/4" spacer under the tank mounting tabs?

There is probably hood clearance. I'll need to use longer bolts.

[sutyak]

Had an overall awesome trip to Ocean City this week. The car ran well for the most part. It takes forever to spool, but when it does it's a rocket. The car is just as fast as I had hoped, and that always helps to justify the purchase.
I had ongoing issues with overheating throughout the weekend. Turns out when I replaced the overflow reservoir it introduced air into the system somehow, or there was more coolant loss that I thought from the crack in the old tank. Either way, I screwed up later by not filling through the neck under the shaker and ended up with a nearly dry block. I didn't drive the car like that, and my buddy had to trailer it back for me. Long story short I simply had to fill through the proper bung under the shaker and not through the reservoir if the coolant is low. All seems well now. Next up I'll finish the trans and roll bar so I'll be ready to race in a month.





Not how I planned on getting home.

[sutyak]

While I'm waiting on a part to be machined for my new transmission I went ahead and pulled the stock one. I was told it had a SPEC 3+ in, but it certainly smoked when I laid on it. Turns out it is just a SPEC stage 1!
The trans is out. Next up is getting out the stubborn pilot bearing.
I'm also hoping to get the roll bar installed this weekend.


Just a little hot..






So long 10-spline trans.

[Martin0660]

Go get the Harbor a Freight pilot bearing tool ... It will feel like it's paid for the first time you use it.

[TooFast98Cobra]

Bread

[sutyak]

I plan on borrowing a puller from AutoZone. Tried grease and just made a mess.

[sutyak]

The blind bearing puller was well worth the trip to AutoZone. The pilot bearing came out in two phases. The inner needle bearing sleeve popped out, switched to a larger puller, and pulled out the rest. Ten minutes tops.
Interior is out and ready for me to start the roll bar install tomorrow.
Pulled the steering wheel since I have that 04 Cobra steering wheel, plus it gives me more room to maneuver the roll bar in and out of the car. I thought I could use my 3 arm puller, but no luck. I tried an actual steering wheel puller, but the bushing that goes over the tip was just barely too large. The aluminum threads pulled right out of the steering wheel. A 2 arm puller did the trick. The steering wheel puller would have worked fine if I had used a socket instead of the provided bushing.
I'm not sure what brand of throwout bearing was in the car, but it is junk. I went with National brand from Advance, and for the pilot bearing. It's a great looking piece with a fully machined face. The old one had significant play, and squealed quite a bit.
I also learned the Teksid block in my car has been repaired in a few places. One peace was completely broken off. The top I'm not sure what is up with, and the lower right looks like it may have been cracked. Fingers crossed no actual stress areas have been cracked previously. Surprises at every corner with this car.

[Cam99]

seeing the repairs would have clenched me up a bit

[sutyak]

I made a good bit of progress on the 6 point bar install this weekend. The Maxiumum Motorsports instructions only suggest taking out the minimum interior for install. Since I'm doing this by myself, I removed all of the interior, including the steering wheel and center console. This way I don't gouge the interior parts taking it in and out, and it just gives me more room to work.
I also ordered a new firewall adjuster and adjustable cable. The current adjuster is junk and stuck on the current setting. I also went ahead and bought a head cooling mod kit. This car has become quite the money pit.


The GeForce gearset transmission is also coming along. I had to take the adapter plate to my buddy's shop to make some adjustments.


Still need to weld the supports, cut out the rear interior panels, and install the door bars.



Where the lower support plate will mount in the rear wheel well. Driver side.

[sutyak]

Roll bar is welded up and the install is nearly complete except for a couple hiccups. I can't use the Corbeau seats. They are not even close to fitting with the door bar. I still have the stock seats that touch the bar, but they'll work. The passenger side door plate sits right on top of the fuel lines. This is the last plate I need to drill for, but I'll need to temporarily move the hard fuel lines.


I also decided to replace my weeping rear main seal while the trans is out, in addition to many, many little things that I don't fee like listing. Suffice to say this has become an all-out restoration project.

[Dan B.]

That car had better show you some love!!

[sutyak]

That car had better show you some love!!

I can only hope. Consistent 10.0 would be nice.

[sutyak]

Big 'ol Precision 7675 sold. Borg Warner S366SX-E 66/73 will be ordered as soon as I'm certain the Precision deal is done. I'm expecting the BW to spool nearly 1,000 RPM sooner. The BW might flow to 800whp, but I think it would take some healthy meth injection or E85. It should be very happy at 700whp.

Remember my goal is a 10.0 car and leave it that way...

Here is my rough estimate of the compressor map for the BW:


And here is an even rougher estimate of the PTE 7675 based on a similar flowing Garrett, since Precision doesn't create compressor maps.
Notice just how little of the potential the car was using. This map is plotted from the actual dyno of the car, so the curve is very accurate, but the actual overlay may not be. I think it should be very close, though.

[sutyak]

Changed my mind last minute and went with a Borg Warner S369SX-E. Spool time should be just barely slower than the 66, but still far better than the 76. It's a 95 lb/min turbo, so 800whp should be realistic if I want to hit that number. The compressor map would be the same as above, just shifted to the right slightly.

[Dan B.]

Looks like I need a compass and orienteering class to read those topo maps. Pretty sure I can see my house on there.

[Martin0660]

Shifted to the right is good ... avoid the surge line for sure