sutyak's turbo 2004 Mach 1 build thread

[sutyak]

Recently I parted ways with my 400hp turbo Ford Focus and picked up a turbo 2004 Mach 1. It has been through a couple owners, and each before used and abused it accordingly. Now I'll be undoing the past 11 years in hopes of getting it up to my standards.

Here are the overall details according to the seller. So far everything checks out.

87000 miles on the body and about 2000 on the built motor.
Motor specs:
8.5:1 compression (I verified cylinder compression before buying)
Manley rods
CP pistons
ARP head studs, rod bolts, cam bolts
MMR oil pan
Teksid block out of an 01 cobra
Stock heads and cams

Turbo kit:
Hellion single 76mm kit with custom cold side
BA5000 MAF sensor
Precision PTE 7675 turbo
Full 3in exhaust to dump before axle

Trans:
T-3650
Spec stage 3+ clutch
MGW short throw

Rear end:
Fully built 8.8 with 31 spline moser shafts
Factory 3.55 gears
New clutch packs

Suspension:
UPR Tubular k member up front with fully adjustable coil overs
Caster camber plates
Fully adjustable coil overs on the rear
Rear upper and lower control arms from UPR

Fuel system:
80lb injectors
Lethal performance return style fuel system with dual walboro pumps with adjustable regulator.

Tuned by Rev Auto

Here are my plans now through Spring 2016:

- New seat foam
- Rear tires (315/35-17 Nitto 555R)
- 26" slicks
- Full length UPR subframe connectors
- Weld torque box seams
- Magnaflow exhaust
- Fix turbo oil drain (done)
- Replace pinion seal
- Moser diff cover
- Weld axle tubes
- Paint rear
- Spherical/adjustable Granatelli upper control arms
- Replace worn out steering wheel
- Remove all unused wires and trace existing wires to nowhere
- Rebuild a TR3650. Originally built for 700hp by American Powertrain. Needs a 3/4 syncro I believe. 26 spline
- New clutch. McLeod RST twin disc? 26 spline
- Fidanza flywheel
- Likely change to smaller turbo for broader power band. Borg Warner S366SX-E 66/73 ?
- 2001 Cobra intake cams
- Get the tune file from Rev Auto so I can make future tune adjustments myself

The short-term goal is to have a strong mid/low 10-second car full weight without a dedicated drag suspension that I can reliably drive to the track and make it home without breaking stuff. Currently makes 667whp and 631 lb-ft torque. I want to keep it around that power level but a broader curve (a full 1,000 RPM earlier).
I also don't want to make the car so aggressive that I don't enjoy driving it.







How it looks right now, minus the rear:




Oil-covered rear from leaks:




Cobra steering wheel for the replacement:

[Dan B.]

Recently I parted ways with my 400hp turbo Ford Focus ........

Did it sell?

BTW........I have a pair of 26x10.50-15 ET Street bias ply tires that are in good condition.

[sutyak]

Did it sell?

Yep. Sold to a guy in KY.

[PaxtonShelby]

When I bought my McLeod twin disc I went with the RXT. I was told the rSt was not meant for drag racing and that is gets smoked easily. For the extra couple hundred bucks I went with the RXT, which I was told will have no problem holding up to nearly 1000hp.

[sutyak]

When I bought my McLeod twin disc I went with the RXT. I was told the rSt was not meant for drag racing and that is gets smoked easily. For the extra couple hundred bucks I went with the RXT, which I was told will have no problem holding up to nearly 1000hp.

Thanks! I'm looking for a lighter pedal effort but still high strength. It will definitely see some track time. The reviews for the McLeod twin disc sounded about right.

[SlowSix]

Ready to see what you do with it this winter. I'm sure it will be just as well done as your focus was.

[sutyak]

Ready to see what you do with it this winter. I'm sure it will be just as well done as your focus was.

Thanks! My plan this month is to get the rear and exhaust done, get it inspected, drive it a bit, clean it up, and then cover and park it for the winter. I may do some little things here and there, but I won't be driving it.

[SlowSix]

Thanks! My plan this month is to get the rear and exhaust done, get it inspected, drive it a bit, clean it up, and then cover and park it for the winter. I may do some little things here and there, but I won't be driving it.

Yeah I have just a couple small upgrades this year, I need to throw my new brakes on the front and get the car cleaned up and put away. The other little mods can wait to spring.

[sutyak]

Yeah I have just a couple small upgrades this year, I need to throw my new brakes on the front and get the car cleaned up and put away. The other little mods can wait to spring.

Last winter I spent quite a bit of time in the garage huffing diesel fumes from the torpedo heater. This year I think I'll skip the fumes and waste some time with my new Xbox One.
I'm also going to rebuild the TR3650 in my basement over the winter so I don't have to mess around with a cold garage.

[sutyak]

Made some progress today on the rear. I beat out the old/shot bushings, which wasn't as tough as I expected. I used a mini sledge and a punch to dent in the sleeve and then with a few whacks they would pop right out.
Next up I replaced the pinion seal, which did not go as smoothly as expected because the first seal I bought didn't fit. A quick trip to the auto parts and that was done. Finally I welded up the axle tubes, which required another trip to the store because I couldn't find the flux core tip for my welder. Tomorrow is the last warm day in sight, so I'll be painting the housing and installing the Moser diff cover.





new pinion seal


pinion seal done


tubes welded

[somethingclever]

Did you put a new pinion nut on it?

I have done it with an old nut and red loctite and that did not work....new nut and never backed off.

I also don't think I could find a torque spec of the nut since I think replacement is only recommended with a new crush sleeve. I torqued it until i could feel the sleeve start to yield, stopped, checked the torque for rotation, and left it at that.

Will you also put in a cast cover with carrier cap jacking bolts? Seems like a good idea to help keep carrier from trying to jump out of the housing.

Did you

[black 94]

I want to weld my tubes as well if u don't mind me asking how did u keep the tubes from "pulling" while u were welding? Looks good. Nice progress.

[sutyak]

Did you put a new pinion nut on it?

I have done it with an old nut and red loctite and that did not work....new nut and never backed off.

I also don't think I could find a torque spec of the nut since I think replacement is only recommended with a new crush sleeve. I torqued it until i could feel the sleeve start to yield, stopped, checked the torque for rotation, and left it at that.

Will you also put in a cast cover with carrier cap jacking bolts? Seems like a good idea to help keep carrier from trying to jump out of the housing.

I did the same as you; loctite and hope. I marked the nut/flange/housing before removal. On reinstall I aligned everything back to the marks. I made the assumption the previous torque was correct, which might not have been the correct thing to do. I'd say it was at least 100 ft-lb given what it took to get it off and back to the mark.

Yes I have a Moser cover I'll be installing after I paint the housing.

I want to weld my tubes as well if u don't mind me asking how did u keep the tubes from "pulling" while u were welding? Looks good. Nice progress.

Four opposing tack welds. Healthy-sized tack welds; not just little dabs.

[George C]

I wouldnt sell that turbo, it will do all ya need with that car even with a built motor.

You could swap to smaller AR to help that motor but a 4v 4.6 should have enough flow to make use of it...if anything maybe have tune adjusted to bring in power better

[sutyak]

I wouldnt sell that turbo, it will do all ya need with that car even with a built motor.

You could swap to smaller AR to help that motor but a 4v 4.6 should have enough flow to make use of it...if anything maybe have tune adjusted to bring in power better

That's certainly on the table if I can find a smaller AR housing.

[sutyak]

Today was painting day. I painted the rear end housing satin black, and the diff cover sonic blue and then cleared it. I'll try to get better pictures when it's all together and out of the garage. The diff cover is just sitting loosely on the rear to keep dust etc. out of the rear. I'm going to give the paint a couple days to set since the humidity and temperature lately are not exactly ideal for painting. The Magnaflow street cat back and Granatelli upper control arms arrived. Ideally I'll get it all together Saturday.

[George C]

Also what size is the crossover? You could swap to a 2" crossover which will increase spool alot

Remember the turbine and AR is the restriction and ya dont olan to make over 1000 so you can swap to smaller if current is 2.5

[sutyak]

Also what size is the crossover? You could swap to a 2" crossover which will increase spool alot

Remember the turbine and AR is the restriction and ya dont plan to make over 1000 so you can swap to smaller if current is 2.5

That's a good thought. It's probably 2.5". Then again if I start doing much fabrication on this project it'll all come out for twin GTX3071R turbos. I have no interest in a big fabrication project immediately, though.

[sutyak]

Rear is together with spherical bushings installed. 2qts 4oz of 75w-140 oil plus friction modifier in. I was hoping to get the exhaust in today, but spent most of the day cleaning out 700lbs of scrap metal from the garage. Time well spent, though!

[Dan B.]

Dats purdy.